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Discussion in 'Vendors' started by neduro, Apr 20, 2010.
I was wondering what I'd missed.
Put in an order for mine today, look forward to seeing how they work on the 610.
Thanks Ned! Gonna be testing on the XT660Z and the HP2
Will post results.
Instead of waiting to break your original mirrors before investing in this excellent product, just remove the originals an store them away. When you sell the bike, re-install unscratched originals and move the real stuff to the next bike! Makes more sense $$$ like and it may save you a perch, too!
Just in time. I needed a replacement. BTW, I've found your suspension book invaluable for finally getting my LC4E set. I like the pdf format. I load it on my PDA so it's easy to have it with me on the ride. Keep the good ideas coming.
Just replaced a my KTM folding mirror (that worked great!) with a Double Take unit.....and I'm glad i did. The Double take mirror really allows you to get the adjustment exactly where you want it and I like the fact that it's basically bullet proof!
Here's a couple pics of the mirror installed on my KTM 530EXC.
That is such a clean looking 530. Wow.
Any issues with all that weight on the rear subframe? Is it just sitting there? No reinforcements/etc.?
Great looking setup. Your 530 has got to be my favourite that I've seen posted. I'm trying to take my '09 450 in the same direction.
thanks, I've worked hard to get it set up exactly the way I want it...now just have to put it to good use
The subframe has no mods to it, I carried the same gear last summer on our 1100 mile off road trip and it performed flawless, my buddy carried the same gear on his 530 as well with no issues. Not saying it can't/won't crack but so far it's holding up great.
yup, that be stylie! Can't wait to get home and mount mine up on my 640A and 525R
so i have a question for those of you who use the 3" arms?
i went with 2" arms.
when you ride dirt roads etc. will your mirrors move/drop down from vibration over time??? i've tightened the living crap outta my 2" arm to the point the rubber ram ball is seriuosly indented and the arm will not tighen anymore. when i'm riding rough dirt roads the mirror will not hold position.
now i understand these are offroad mirrors and i can fold them down but alot of my riding is paved roads for a few miles (ie cops, keeps the mirror up) then connect with dirt and then back to paved and so on. no bueno to adjust the mirror each time i switch terrain. in the end if i point it straight up it stays but that defeats the purpose of a mirror and seeing behind me.
is my klr mirror anti-vibartion thing causing this (i'll try a test w/o), or is it the 2" arm clamps less or is it the design as ned went with a non-rubber ball on his mirror so it could move in a crash and thus this mirror really needs to be tucked 100% when on dirt???
so does your mirror drop down for you over time?
I used a short arm for a while (I now changed to the long arm simply because it gives better visibility and because with my new hand guards, the reflector would end up right over the hand guard mounting bolt when I fold it down) and had absolutely no issues with the arm loosening arm. It stayed tight wherever I put it. I couldn't even move it to adjust the mirror without first loosening the arm up.
I just finished a 1500 Iron Butt ride with these mirrors on my Big KTM. The only time they moved was when hit with HIGH Gusts while I was doing 90mph. I'm talking High Gusts. We lost one rider in the group due to getting blown off the road. :eek1
You can see them in this pic, still standing.
ok. with my short arm i can't ever tighten it enough to make it complely a solid unit. i'll flip my arm and see what happens, but maybe the the 2" arm end does get as much leverage as the ball as the 3"?
anyone else w/ 2" arms???
so i flipped the arm and now it locked solid.
i flipped it back and it moved???
so that was it & i have no idea why as i see no diff.
maybe the one side is clamping tighter???
I have the 2" arm and find that when I get the bike bouncing around offroad the mirrors flop down. I have the knob tightened as best I can by hand. I am thinking of dipping the mirror ball in some plasticote to give the arm something to grab onto a little better.
I'm not speaking for Ned here(or trying to be Devil's advocate), these are just my opinions but I hope they shed some light on your issues:
The short arms and long arms will both get to the same clamping force eventually - but the shorter arms get there faster(as in, fewer turns of the screw), because there is less strain distance("flex") in either half of the short arm assemblies as you tighten the screw on them. Ultimately, though, there is no "ratio" involved in either short or long arm(because the screw is centered between the clamping cups, that hold the spherical balls on either end)other than that of the screw and the mechanical advantage it provides for you to get to whatever "tight" is with your wrist/handstrength.
Also, it will never be a totally, 100% rock-solid unit - that's the point. You are relying on friction to hold things in place and the threshold of that static friction is high enough in most cases to hold them damn stiff until you strike something or they need to swing out of the way on their own in the event of a crash, etc.
More than likely this has to do with the shape of the spherical cups in the halves of the arm, and the way it grasps the sphere molded onto the end of the mirror. Also, it might be possible that having the arm flipped allows you personally to get a better angle/more leverage/better grip on the screw, and "tight" in this orientation is tighter than in the other way.
You're probably going to have trouble getting the Plasticote to stick to the mirrorball, because molded Zytel is not a very good bonding surface. More than likely it will help, but if the tightened assembly is somehow bumped and moved, it will peel the Plasticote right off and you'll be back to square one.
Lastly, aren't you folding the mirrors up when you turn off the pavement? Isn't that the point of this design? That's what I do...when I said earlier that they stayed put at high speed over rough ground, I mean gravel road or rough pavement - not whoops or rock sections. No mirror stays put over really truely rough terrain, IMO.
For the people that like having a mirror off road so that you can see if your buddy is still back there, I would say that another point of the design is that there is a pivot down low on the stalk instead of a threaded arm and a lock washer. This makes the mirror more likely to pivot than to break off the mount on your brake master cylinder.
You might could get some plastic paint to stick to the mirror ball that would provide a little more friction on the Ram arm.
Great stuff Tim!
I want to agree on the Plasticote and bonding issue. I thought of roughing up the surface of the (Zytel) ball end before dipping in the Plasticote. This will likely make it out of round and I will then have bigger issues. I also thought of drilling small 1/16" holes for a relief and gripping points. Likely the Plasticote will still peel off in between the reliefs, so still not a good ideal.
Latest idea: I may try knurling the ball end of the mirror, or roughing with 80 grit and see what happens.
Also, I use my mirror off road a lot. I often ride with a group and want to keep an eye out for others. I crank it real hard and it works great. It will move when I whack it with a branch on the trails or jump the bike. As it has been stated here many times, that is the point of the design. Parts will move and not break. When it happens, I simply move it back in position.
Before you do any of this, try some cheap Aqua-Net hairspray...again, probably only good for a few uses...and might wash off in the rain...but not permanent as an experiment...