Dowel Pin Stuck

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by indr, Jan 11, 2013.

  1. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

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    How about the bearing shells, could they be also mated to the case/crank? BMW does stuff like that.:eek1Someone somewhere found out how time consuming and expensive it can be sorting that out of 2-3 engines and boxes of parts.:eek1

    So...if we ignore the case damages for now would just pulling that pin out and installing a new one suffice to keep the oil where it belongs?

    How big is that hole and is there a lip on the bottom, as in the pin not pushed down far enough to contact the case? Then maybe rig some kind of hammer puller, a small one and carefully bang it out.

    Depending on how tight that pin is, can't be very tight if it walked in there? How did that happen anyway? If you pushed it in by mistake, then you'd know how tight it is.:ear

    Maybe just roughening up the inside with the proper dremel bit and then installing a bolt/anchor in that hole could be enough to provide some pull.The proper bit probably wouldn't be in the accessories that usually come with them dremels.

    Now that you have that engine all apart, did you ever find out why it was knocking? Starting to look expensive, is that high milleage bike worth all that expense of time and money?:wink:
    #21
  2. gsweave

    gsweave Yinz, blinkers are on, since 05

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    Its a little late.


    could of tapped threads, inserted corresponding bolt and used a slide hammer and heat.



    maybe on the next one.
    #22
  3. sailah

    sailah Lampin' it

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    Is it just me or is anyone else saying why the fuck would you grind a journal away to get a dowel pin out when there are a half dozen solutions mentioned in this thread that would have worked?

    First off get some real penetrant, tap it and insert bolt with slide hammer and yank out.

    I'd be looking for a used engine at this point.
    #23
  4. Ratski

    Ratski Been here awhile

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    I gotta say, all the reccomendations of tapping the dowel, while a good idea, will not work. Dowels like this one are hardened steel, they are too hard to be tapped. That is why the bolt extractors aren't working, they are softer than the dowel. Trust me, I know. Not long after starting in my current position at work, i was chasing a 1/4 pipe tap hole in a block of hardened steel, before any thread cutting occurred I broke the tap clean off and we had to EDM it out.

    If you try to tap that dowel, all you will succeed in doing is having to deal with a stuck dowel with a broken tap in it.

    You said that the outside diameter of the dowel is ~3.3mm right, that means the ID is about 1.5 or so? Any tap this small is REALLY easy to break!!
    #24
  5. sailah

    sailah Lampin' it

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    He doesnt need to thread it, just get something in there with enough purchase to grab with a vise grip slide hammer. It's barely in there.

    I would have welded it first, but thats me and I have a tig welder. I def would not have gone at it with a dremel and wrecked the journal
    #25
  6. speedracertdi

    speedracertdi Been here awhile

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    Wow talk about ham-fisted. :eek1
    #26
  7. anonny

    anonny What could go wrong?

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    Wow this got expensive fast.
    #27
  8. Mike Ryder

    Mike Ryder Kriegerkuh

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    Even I feel decidedly unsettled.
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  9. docsherlock

    docsherlock Been here awhile

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    Well and truly fucked now - at least you got a second hand set of cases.

    Blob of weld and pull or spark erosion would have solved this problem - for next time.

    Or try an ezee out or tap and if that broke it's just easier to blob the weld on.....
    #29
  10. CaptTeach

    CaptTeach Been here awhile

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    OOOOppppppssssss!!!!!
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  11. ohgood

    ohgood Long timer

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    3mm or so hole in the dowel you say ?

    i've made extractors (smalllll bearing pullers) that work great for small things:

    imagine 1/2 of a nail, slip it down the hole, and move one way so the nail head catches the back edge of the dowel/bearing/whatever.

    then another 1/2 nail, also slipped down in, allowed to catch on the opposite side of the back edge of the dowel/bearing/whatever.

    drive a small (piano wire sometimes, yikes this is small!) down between them. this not only forces a LOT of pressure on the 'nail' heads, but also keep them from slipping and turning while you...

    glue the assembly to a regular puller bolt. weld works too, but for tiny stuff weld can kill the elasticity of the metals. then, with plastic pads against the machined surfaces that matter, put a regular puller against the face of the case and begin turning (pulling) the screw. a little head, a little penetrating oil, and even 20 year old dowels will come free. patience is a virture.


    i hope someone aritistly inclined can draw a picture, cause my explainations suck.



    oh, just saw your picture. good lord, find a machinist, quick, and put down the tools ! (not an insult, a helpful suggestion) :)
    #31
  12. troidus

    troidus Long timer

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    Too late for that. I dont' see any way to unFUBAR that bearing support.
    #32
  13. Twilight Error

    Twilight Error Going nowhere slowly

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    Find a good welding shop, add the lost material back with filler and re-machine to spec.

    This, of course, will cost more than a full case in good condition.
    #33
  14. ohgood

    ohgood Long timer

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    i'm not so sure that piece is toast, looking again. that's barely half of five degrees of material. so long as the rest of it is round, it should wear just fine for a long time. is that portion directly in line with the stroke of the piston ? if not, it wouldn't bother me to run it as is.

    you could even fill it and file it however you liked, to prevent stuff from getting in the gap and swarfing up the crankshaft.
    #34