Dr. Bean's 950 fuel pump kits

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by Dr_Bean, Mar 4, 2011.

  1. Gustavo.Ramos

    Gustavo.Ramos Long timer

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    Sumi and Gefr,

    Don't know why i havent yet taken a photo of my 950 fp. It is in very good condition, no signs whatsoever of corrosion or dirt/mud/what/sh#t getting in.

    guess i'm just paranoid about ordering parts and then have another problem to fix thus delaying things just a bit more. Very frustrating when that happens.

    The shaft appears to be moving freely, let's wait patiently for Dr Bean's solution
  2. Gustavo.Ramos

    Gustavo.Ramos Long timer

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    Woho!!! :clap

    Part arrived right now! Shipped wednesday, arrived friday morning!!!!!

    I have some f#ck up to do this afternoon! Will post details later on

    :freaky
  3. Boatman

    Boatman Membership has it's privileges ;-)

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    Mine left me stranded on a mountain in Colorado with 1100 miles on the odometer...... it wasn't the points but something internal.
  4. Dr_Bean

    Dr_Bean Dr_Bean

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    I see occasional fps fail for other reasons the the contact breakers:

    - diode fail: I think the diode sometimes fails BECAUSE of the bad contact-breakers: It gets to do more when the points go bad! Good reason to replace the points before they really go bad! (if you do so, you also have a nice spare/bakc-up if you don't trust electronics 100% (like myself :-) , but I am sure you will leave them home unless you go on a world-trip)

    - diode fail due to reverse connection: IF you are stupid enough to reverse connect the fp to the battery, you will immediately blow the diode.

    diode-fail 99% gives a short-circuit in pump and usually blows the FP-fuse in the bike-fuse-box.

    - fp-rod stuck: This happend to people who drive a lot in wet-salt conditions (like here in holland or germany: Wet-snow and lots of winter-salt on the road). Not that many motorbike drivers out there in these conditions, so not so often seen.

    - fp- internal coil burned: When the contact-breakers get stuck the pump is 100% ON. This will overheat the pump and blow the fuse on the bike normally. It also will not happen, because the bike doesn't run without the pump-running and the ECU kills the fuelpump power. But if you OVERsize the fuse and trick the bike (for example by bypassing the pumps fuel-hoses, as an emergency but WITHOUT de-connecting the FP connector....).
    often this gives a shot-circuit between any of the electrical connection and the outside metal of the pump.

    - Salt/corrosion inside the pump-coil: Also short-circuits to outside metal.

    I did see OLD pumps... they do 70 liter/h where a new one does 90l/h , both 3x more then you even need.


    btw: IF the pump-rod moves (about 2-3 mm) then you can be quite sure the pump internals are ok.


    regards
  5. Gustavo.Ramos

    Gustavo.Ramos Long timer

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    Like posted before, part shipped, wednesday, received friday morning.

    Kit is a fine piece of craftmanship, almost can't believe you do this manually

    Assembled in the afternoon, never removed the FP from the bike. Instructions are simple, just remove old contact, weld 3 wires, screw 3 bolts, ignition of, kill switch on, fuel pumping sound, start, broooooooommmm, perfect!

    Only better if pump never failed.

    :clap

    tkz
  6. Dr_Bean

    Dr_Bean Dr_Bean

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    the current ones are reflow soldered (only the SMD parts): That is better then hand-solder and saves me quite some time.
    non-smd parts, masking, coating, testing etc is still hand-work by me. Design is fixed: works for all bike now (also Honda ones).

    I am happy to help 950 owners with it!

    regards
  7. tntyliss

    tntyliss n00b

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    Limassol,Cyprus
    I just fitted Dr_bean's kit a few days ago, and everything seams to be fine. Not so difficult(if you read the manual).
    Thanks Garben, made our KTM days a lot easier.
  8. Dr_Bean

    Dr_Bean Dr_Bean

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    Hi

    From Thursday 6 to Saturday 15 I'll be at the Balkanrally (www.balkanoffroad.com). So I won't be able to answer your PMs nor ship any parts.

    regards
    Dr_bean
  9. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    Dr Bean. What sort of ohms should you get across the FP coil...Bike stopped today..Points were bad so I though Id order a set from you and a normal set to get me out of a fix....anyhow took the FP out..lots of black soot to test. Connected FP to battery no clicky clicky...plunger felt stiff so used some WD...Connected to bike ...blows fuse. When I measure with points closed I get zero ohms...points open, I get open circuit.

    Is the FP toast?
    <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
  10. Dr_Bean

    Dr_Bean Dr_Bean

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    You can measure the coil resistance, but it is not trivial.

    - Coil resistance (from blue-black wire to the thin wire coming out of the pump, connected to top of braker-points_: ~ 1.6 Ohm
    This is very low for most cheap multimeaters. to measure this:
    * Put Multimeter in Ohm, lowest range (usually 200 Ohm range)
    * sort-circuit the meter cables by pressing them together and see what the meter says.
    * If it is more then 1 Ohm: Forget it... get another meter/change battery etc.
    * If the meter says < 1 Ohm: Rember the numer (say 0.6 Ohm).
    * now measure the coil of the pump: say you get 2.1 Ohm.
    * substract the 'short-circuit value' and you have a 'reasonable' number

    Also:
    Measure from the blue-balck wire to the metal-outside of the put. This should me 'open'

    Don't try to measure 'through' the contact breakers: that will only give you confusing data.

    Pump test:
    - Kill-swicth OFF
    - make sure the contact breakers are in contact (if they are very bad: Clean them with a small file/sandpaper)
    - Pump connected to the bike
    - fuelpump-switch OK (and correct value)
    - Ignition key ON
    --> Now switch KILL-switch ON, and the pump rod should move 'outwards' at least 1x.

    The ECU (computer) of the bike only keeps the pump active for 5 seconds.
    To redo this test: killswicth OFF , and wait till the pump-rod is all the way back and the contact breakers are IN contact again.

    IF the pump-rod does NOT move: through pump away :evil

    Do not use WD40: the pump has dry-brass bearings, they do not get better from lubrication.
  11. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    Dr. What’s the circuit inside the pump....I’m getting Zero ohms (quality multitester in its day) closed circuit from black wire from plug and thin black to points....If I put 12v across solenoid wires the rod doesn’t move.
  12. Dr_Bean

    Dr_Bean Dr_Bean

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    Inside the pump is a coil, and a diode parallel to the coil.

    If you measure <1 Ohm, most likely the diode is burned. This happens more often if you wait till the contact-points are completely gone...
    SEE: 1st rootcause: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=19490051&postcount=251

    The diode is not needed for my kit, but if it is short-circuit, the pump won't work.
    Most likely also your FP-Fuse in the bike is burned if the diode is shorted: surely the short-circuit current was supplied by the bike in some stage...

    try another pump...
  13. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    Cheers....will do. Thanks for your help. I'll see if I can get it completely apart tomorrow.
  14. crofrog

    crofrog Long timer

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    Install was super easy bike runs great now with it installed.
  15. ontherock

    ontherock ne'er do well

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    Got it in the mail today and installed it, works great! Thanks. The thin solder worked pretty well too. I used a super small screwdriver to help pull/ pry the wire seal back in from the outside, seemed to help.:1drink
  16. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    Dr Bean. I can’t get my head around how the whole set up works? The ECU sends power to FP relay...relay sends power to FP points, FP pumps until???? How does the FP talk to ECU???
  17. Gustavo.Ramos

    Gustavo.Ramos Long timer

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    ECU!?

    I'm not very technical skilled but i think the pump works by sesnsing lower fuel pressure and then impeling the pump shaft, then the shaft cuts the optic sensor, which sends a signal to an electric circuit to stop impeling the shaft. A spring on the shaft, makes it go back, the optic sensor "sees" the shaft is not there anymore, there goes a sign to the electric circuit to impel the pump shaft again, and the cycle repeats itself as long as there is not enough pressure to stop it. E.g. kill switch on, pump working for a few secs, if the engine does not start, fuel pressure will build up and the pump stops working until that pressure is relieved and the cycle goes on again...

    correct me if i'm wrong
  18. charlie264

    charlie264 Long timer

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    Makes sense. Cheers.
  19. 420

    420 Sweden

    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2007
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    South Sweden
    I mounted my fuelpumpkit last weekend and it wasnt to difficult and it works just fine!
    I am so glad that I dont need the vacuumpump I had replaced the shitty originalpump with.
    Now everything is working as it should. Big thank you!

    [​IMG]

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  20. buzybraza

    buzybraza Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Escondido, CA
    I installed a Dr. Bean kit about 1000 miles ago on my beloved 950 SE!
    I am a believer!!!