Dr. Bean's 950 fuel pump kits

Discussion in 'Vendors' started by Dr_Bean, Mar 4, 2011.

  1. Dr_Bean

    Dr_Bean Dr_Bean

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    Well.. apparently it is very difficult for you to arrange a group buy, or reseller in the US. so I will try and ship some samples individual.

    Let me summarize here:

    the kit itself: 40 euro 56.67 $
    shipping as package: 24.3 euro 34.43 $ ...
    shipping as letter: 2 euro 2.83 $

    a package is insured and has tracking, but the price is ridiculous for 1 set, for a few, it is ok and save
    A letter has NO tracking and NO insurance: lost is lost. but nice and cheap: 60 $ all in.

    If you send me a PM I'll try and ship a few (up to 10 to usa) and lets see whether that works out or not: I am NOT responsible if customs confiscates the package, you take the risk. I have done 1 to US so far, without any problems.
    please make sure to send you address in the PM as should be printed on the package.

    regards
    #21
  2. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    As I told Gerben before when I got mine, US Customs isn't like Europe Customs.

    I've never once had duty accessed on an item that was shipped via the Postal Service (i.e delivered here by USPS) even when they are clearly listed as "commercial" on the customs declaration. Couriers like UPS/DHL are totally different.

    I'm not sure what the theoretical customs duties are for the US. I couldn't find any mention of them online. Anyone know for reference?

    Mine was sent "letter" and arrived fine without it being confiscated :D I'd imagine if you owed duty you'd be summoned to the Post Office to pay it. It's not like your shipping child pornography.
    #22
  3. cpmodem

    cpmodem Orange Caveman

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    Howz your Bean Pump working CB?
    Errr excuse me DR. Bean Pump :freaky
    #23
  4. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    Not installed it yet. All my maintenance got postponed for 3 months due to a combination of unfortunate reasons. Just finished bolting her back up after valves, water pump and AdvTank install.

    I was going to ride her Monday and if all is well, do the fuel pump after that (don't like to do too many changes in parallel).

    Of course I only have 12k miles so I expect the stock points are still fine.
    #24
  5. cpmodem

    cpmodem Orange Caveman

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    I've got a pristine (read: good used) OEM Mitsubishi that I'd like to put one of Doc's kits in. My Facet has over 30k miles without a hiccup, but I can't expect it to last forever. :lol3
    #25
  6. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    I have a spare new fuel pump (good deal here on the FM), a spare new set of points plus the uninstalled Dr Bean kit. Clearly at some point in time I wasn't quite sure what I wanted to do :D and went a bit overboard. I should sell some of them.

    I'll find out how worn the points are next week (12k miles). If they don't look bad I'll keep them as a spare and sell the above new points, else throw them out. Is there a good thread on assessing points wear?
    #26
  7. cpmodem

    cpmodem Orange Caveman

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    I haven't had much luck with the points. Seem to be pretty fragile. Fall apart when I touch them. Been real lucky in the past as long as I didn't mess wit 'em. If I get the Doc's kit, I'll put that one in and carry a new Facet until I'm good and sure the OEM will be reliable enough for the Road of Bones. Prolly find a place on the bike to stash it anyway. Never can be too safe :rofl

    I'll find a place for my old 40171 on one of the farm implements around here, or maybe replace the 100k mile Mr Gasket flux capacitor on my ST1100. Prolly be closer to the proper pressure for the V4 anyway.
    #27
  8. Pax

    Pax shazam.

    Joined:
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    Columbia MO
    Dr. Bean,

    What do you estimate the lifespan to be of your kit?

    Thanks!
    Pax
    #28
  9. Dr_Bean

    Dr_Bean Dr_Bean

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    limited by the lifespan of the pump (membrane, solenoid rod).
    >100'000km

    Occasionally I have seen the rod of the pump freezes due to heavy oxidation, in areas where they put tons of salt on the road in the winter (like we do here in Holland).
    So far all kits I ever delivered are still running flawless.

    but I don't have any 100'000km tests... I do my best, no warranty.

    regards
    #29
  10. ktm950se

    ktm950se Banned

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    PM sent and kit requested! :evil :D

    ktm950se
    #30
  11. ridewestKTM

    ridewestKTM Long timer

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    The pumps don't seal well, and sometimes the vent is where washdown water can enter.
    I agree with Dr Bean the rest of the pump should be long lived otherwise.
    #31
  12. Dr_Bean

    Dr_Bean Dr_Bean

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    The only 1 fail of my kits, was due to the fact that someones pump-house had filled up 50% with (salty)water, and the PCB was still working: Over a couple of month the connection of the coil to the PCB corroded away. When the pump died the connection on the PCB around the wire was gone. I re-soldered that and all electronics still worked: and it is still running today.

    Also the wire from the coil itself was about 50% gone... so if the PCB wouldn't have failed.. the wire would have only little later.
    With contact breakers the pump would have ceased long before!

    AND:
    I improved the PCB on this point in 2 ways:
    - the PCB now get a PU coating so it doesn't corrode any more
    - the connection of this point on the PCB is made stronger and double-sided: so about 4x stronger.


    My own prototype (still in my bike after 40dkm rallies and offroad) stopped working ones: It was filled up with muddy waters and that clogged the light detection. I rinsed it with clean water and remounted it... no problems ever since.

    Still: Don't try to seal the pump-house.. that will make thing only worse.
    Make sure the vent-hose is on the bottom side (so don't mount the pump up-side down) and the vent hose has a nice S curve to prevent water getting in to easily.

    (these issues are the same or worse with the original contactbreakers
    #32
  13. Sumi

    Sumi Long timer

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    Dr. Bean,
    Where do you live in NL? I'm heading out there for a fishing trip with my dad next month, and I was thinking about buying a kit from you if we can arrange it (and hopefully I can take it home on a plane without anybody of the airport security thinking anything bad of it - not sure).
    #33
  14. Dr_Bean

    Dr_Bean Dr_Bean

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    see PB
    #34
  15. Kyler

    Kyler Confused Hack Nut

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    If someone else in the US is buying one, I'll go in one one.
    #35
  16. ridewestKTM

    ridewestKTM Long timer

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    I tried to coat the PCBs on my kits and it didn't seem to make much difference. I potted a few for external of the cap - that's what I carry for backup. My own generation 2 unit has 20k miles and works great still. Sealed up the cap best I could -can't imagine why not. Even considered just plugging the vent but I suppose sea level to 10kft could keep the pump from working. - I know water would blitz my circuit though. The coil takes so much current it hard to imagine it can tolerate much of anything -just the solder joints get hot even when the circuit components stay cool. If mine ever fails I have a small inventory of my generation 3 units and can go a long time, so I have no worries.
    NTL the optical is a good choice - good job.
    #36
  17. Dr_Bean

    Dr_Bean Dr_Bean

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    sorry don't know you made and don't get you text completely.

    as for backup: My kit removes the complete original contact breakers: If they are still reasonable you can simple use those as backup since it is very easy to revert to original. You only cut 1 wire for install of my kit: reconnect that wire and reinstall the original C-breakers and you are done. Nice to have if you are planning a worldtrip or deserttrip....
    #37
  18. ridewestKTM

    ridewestKTM Long timer

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    #38
  19. Dr_Bean

    Dr_Bean Dr_Bean

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    Ah, ok.

    Well, mine started simply because of the same reason, in 2006, when my own 950 pump started to give problems.
    As a challenge I replaced it, first with breakers+Fet, later with a opto (and actually also included the 'on' function of the boardcomputer into it and removed the original fuelpump-relay: one of many things to make my 950 lighter).
    I used the 950 3 years to drive rally: 8th an 4th in the Tuareg rally (profi-class) and 1st in Eastern Europe rally (OER). now I have a 690 for this.

    I always liked inventing electronics for bikes.

    ANyway: My friends started to ask me whether I also could make this pump-switch for them... but of course I could not give them something like my own prototype (one-off, reused parts etc). So I draw up a pcb and perfected the schematic and pcb, making it 'reproducable' and also easy to mount for everyone with a solder iron. But developing a PCB and trying-out things has its price.

    I still hand-solder all boards myself and don't really want to make 'production' out of it and I don't try to make profit of it, just enough to cover expenses, an occasional 'lost' in the mail etc. And some to develop the next version...

    I am not a company doing this! Its hobby, I have a real job too :wink:
    I just hope to help people out with this fix.


    Reverse connecting the pump and board will blow-up the pump-diode indeed (so how do you fix this: blow out the diode completely?) and usually it also damages my kit-board.
    There is an extra diode on the board, so if the original pump-diode doesn't work, that is not a problem.
    #39
  20. fmfpunk

    fmfpunk Hooligan in training

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    What happens if the pump diode is bad? How do you know? Is it bad to run it like that?
    #40