DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    So with the clutch lever all the way out, you can go down to the clutch arm on the engine and wiggle the exposed cable and feel the slack?

    I have always used stock clutch disks. I have a stack of friction disk from various parts bikes. I also seem to be pulling my clutch apart regularly for what ever reason. I visually examine them and replace the ones that are worn. Always seems that there is one disk that is worn and the others are not. THe worn one will have the little friction squares worn down. Replace that one, and have never had clutch slip.
  2. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    Adjust the cable down at the motor till it has some slack. Then adjust at the lever. It has to have some slack/free play or it will slip.
  3. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    Pretty sure dirt/street, early/late cranks are different. Longer for bigger flywheel. Side covers different too.
  4. firechicken

    firechicken Adventurer

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    Let me start by stating that I have done quite a bit of research and trouble shooting on this problem already, which is why I am seeking advise. I recently purchased a 99 DR350X (pumper carb dirt model). It ran like crap when I bought it but I thought it was a jetting issue.

    Mods: pro-circuit slip-on and airbox mod+backfire screen removal.

    Symptoms: Bike starts right up and idles clean, revs are pretty crisp all the way through in neutral, when in gear under load it will not rev past 4 or 5k rpms, it just bucks, sputters, and misses. It smokes when it hits these RPMs but not at idle, smoke is blue. The plug, which is new and correct, is black, dry, and sooty, the inside of the muffler is the same. sounds super rich, right? I'm not convinced. The carb is squeaky clean and jetting is at least close. The flat slide housing is a little worn, but I've read that the symptom of an overly worn slide is leaking air which causes inconsistent idle and decreased throttle response. I don't know if it would cause an issue this dramatic.

    Trouble shooting so far: New plug, adjusted the valves (they were pretty close to spec already), new and oiled air filter, compression test (80psi), adjusted compression release, rebuilt the carb, new plug and plug boot and slightly trimmed plug wire (to ensure good connection). The wiring harness is in pretty good shape but I cleaned every connection and ground, dialectic greased all connections, made sure all male/female connections were tight. Repacked the muffler and ensured that it is not clogged. Rebuilt the carb meticulously, including cleaning the float valve screen and checking float height, and thoroughly cleaning and inspecting the accelerator pump and can visually witness it operate correctly with a strong consistent "squirt". Current jetting is stock pilot, 3rd (middle) needle position, and 140 main. I have tried the following jetting combinations as well, all with properly adjusted air screw.

    (all w/stock pilot)

    4th clip needle 145 main

    5th clip needle 145 main

    3rd clip needle 127.5 main (stock)

    and 3rd clip needle 135 main



    none of these jetting changes made a noticeable difference in the way the bike runs, it still falls on its ass under load. It has great throttle response and power in low rpms but as soon as it hits the midrange it sputters, misses, and jolts. And it revs much higher in neutral, I think this is important. I'm starting to suspect an electrical fault, I've seen stators and internal coils go bad but they usually fail completely or will cause a miss throughout the rpm range. I'm pretty baffled. I've read 4 other posts with this DR350X condition and noone reached a conclusion. One guy rebuilt his top end because he thought that was the problem but of course that didn't fix it. I just sunk a bunch of money into this bike and i'm running out of time in my favorite riding season. Please help!



    Thank you,

    -Calvin









    [​IMG]
  5. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    If it has the dual pick up coils for the cdi, maybe the high rpm one is going bad. We had the same problem with Guavadude's "97se. Starts some where around here.... http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/dr350-thread.230695/page-2409#post-32039247 ....and goes on for a few pages.
  6. plugeye

    plugeye dreamer

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    dr650 92-95 same part as dr350
  7. Friedom

    Friedom Onward and upward!

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    My understanding was that there are two cranks - estart and kick.
  8. Alaska1WD

    Alaska1WD Been here awhile

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    Have you checked the timing? Maybe the chain is a few teeth off? It would probably run okay at low RPM if the timing was late, but worse at high RPM....? Worth a check I think

    Could be the CDI, rare but it can happen. If you can find another DR350 rider nearby, you could borrow his and see. Only takes five minutes to swap it and all.

    Loose header pipe?
  9. Diitteri

    Diitteri Adventurer

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    There is some slack in the cable, perhars it is time to buy some friction plates and see how many I have to replace.

    Lähetetty minun ONEPLUS A5000 laitteesta Tapatalkilla
  10. Friedom

    Friedom Onward and upward!

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    A few things that stand out to me:

    Blue smoke? Only oil creates blue smoke. Leaking intake valve guide seals? Blowby? Could try the water/decarbon trick. Maybe your oil ring is stuck/sludged.

    Is the breather hose unobstructed and properly routed to the airbox so that the engine isn't building up internal pressure?

    Odd question, but does it have the right amount of oil in it? We overfilled my first DR. Oil went out the breather tube, into the airbox, filled the carb and made an incredible cloud of smoke.

    Secondary pickup coil is definitely suspect given the rpm range.
    plugeye likes this.
  11. hondabtr

    hondabtr Adventurer

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    a
  12. firechicken

    firechicken Adventurer

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    The header isn't loose, I've considered the timing but haven't checked it yet, if it has skipped 2 teeth I have bigger things to worry about. I'm going to look into the electrical components first before taking the valve cover off. Certainly a possibility though!
  13. firechicken

    firechicken Adventurer

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    It could 100% have some ring blow by or leaking valve guides, but it wouldn't effect the ability to rev through the rpms. I've had some very smoky honda's that were underpowered with worn rings but ran fine with worn top end components. And it had the problem both before and after the oil change, and I know I used the correct amount of oil. The breather hose is an interesting thought. I know it is routed properly but I will confirm that it isn't clogged.
  14. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    80psi is not great compression and, as mentioned already, blue smoke is a sure sign of oil burning. I agree with you, however, that this is unlikely to affect running, although I would like to know more about how you changed the oil to be SURE you really didn't overfill (not challenging your competence but you would not be the first to misunderstand the process and end up with an issue.)

    I had a problem with high RPM apparent misfire on my big bore (435) DR. Jesse suggested that cam timing could be off due to incorrect assembly and it is a pretty common problem so that's worth double-checking. In my case that was not it. After several years of living with the problem (435 had so much mid-range torque compared to stock that it actually wasn't much of an issue) I finally figured out that the 435s higher compression required higher octane fuel. The misfire was at least partly due to preignition.
  15. Alaska1WD

    Alaska1WD Been here awhile

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    Sounds electrical then. Here are measurements from my 1995SE when I thought I had stator trouble (was actually goo in main jet). I suggest you check your pickup coil numbers vs. mine. I have hot and cold resistance numbers here. You can cross off bad pickup coils in ten minutes. Your wire colors might be different FYI. I'm nt sure about dirt version power stuff either. http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/dr350se-project.1031404/page-8#post-32727317

    That fuel thing is worth a check. Maybe you have carbon buildup on your head, raising the CR. Carbon builds up mostly in richly-jetted engines, it happened to mine and froze the oil rings. Mine still runs fine, but it's worth a look.
  16. SloRonStinkypants

    SloRonStinkypants I HAD CRAMPS

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    plugeye likes this.
  17. Friedom

    Friedom Onward and upward!

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  18. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Looks good. Be a total score if it is currently registered. Back fees won't be that bad for 2 years. I do HATE blacked out plastics. Looks like it was rattle canned.

    The "won't kick over" statement is trouble some especially since it doesn't have a kicker. Battery is probably dead. But I would pull the spark plug before you try to turn it over.
  19. SloRonStinkypants

    SloRonStinkypants I HAD CRAMPS

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    Yeah I have revived a few in the past..
    Even if it's a total bust I can part of out.. I want the spare wheels n tires..
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  20. Anonawesome

    Anonawesome Scenic Rider

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    LOL. Didn't even notice that my first read. Maybe the engine turns over fine, he's just saying it's really sturdy on the kickstand and you can't kick it over. :dunno

    :lol3
    buzzword likes this.