DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. Trixie

    Trixie Adventurer in my own mind

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    Anyone have a source for a BST33 float assy? OEM ones are on eternal backorder.
  2. KTM265

    KTM265 Been here awhile

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    Sep 14, 2005
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    Do you have the OEM part number or model year with model carb? (M or N) I'm thinking that is for CA emissions...so CA carb or everyone else.
  3. Trixie

    Trixie Adventurer in my own mind

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    It's a 1991 350S, so I believe that makes it an M, or an SM, not sure which. Suzuki P/N 13240-14D20. they still sell the carb, so I assume someone has to have it somewhere. Although at this point, I'm ready to replace the whole damn thing and start over....
  4. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    https://www.partzilla.com/product/suzuki/13240-14D20
    ??

    Try Derek at MotoLab
  5. fateddy

    fateddy \m/

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    Just how bright of a headlamp can you run on the stock dirt stator?
  6. Jeff@TheQuadShop

    Jeff@TheQuadShop TAT survivor

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    It depends on what type of lighting system that you want to use, Halogen, HID, LED ect.
    KTM265 likes this.
  7. KTM265

    KTM265 Been here awhile

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    What's up with your local dealership? They can't get one in for you? It's not an obsolete part...
  8. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/p/suzuki/13240-14d20/-float-assy

    IIRC there was something weird about a jet in the float assy on one of the early carbs. Something about drilling it to a larger size ???? Maybe someone else remembers. Could probably use a later float.
  9. Trixie

    Trixie Adventurer in my own mind

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    If you search this thread with that part number, you'll find the issue. I believe it was the pickup for the enrichment circuit that plugged into the carb body with the o-ring. The 14D20 assy. was the upgraded part, according to Dr. Bender.

    Floats with jets made no sense to me at all.

    I ordered one from Partzilla, I will wait and see if they have any inventory. I have 2 identical bikes anyway (except one runs just fine) so I'll swap out both floats when I get them, if I ever get them. Babbitt's and Partzilla seem to have nearly identical pricing on most things anyway.
  10. fateddy

    fateddy \m/

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    If I could find a direct plug and play LED, that would be awesome. Everything is stock as of now, so I imagine it's good ol' incandescent.
  11. Jeff@TheQuadShop

    Jeff@TheQuadShop TAT survivor

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    This one is plug and play in the SE's, I have one in mine and it is fantastic!

    http://stores.advmonster.com/h4-r3-led-headlight/
  12. Jeff@TheQuadShop

    Jeff@TheQuadShop TAT survivor

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    I recently swapped my 99 forks with stiffer springs and a revalve for a set of 49mm cartridge Showa's from a 2017 DRZ400S. My stock forks worked pretty dang good for what they are but the flex had the front end wandering and deflecting in the rocks.
    This weekend I took it out for it's first real test on the new forks, I can say that these are the best forks in the rocks and roots that I've ever run. I've had lots of bikes and race bikes over the last 30 years!
    These are just as plush as my stock 99 forks but they do not flex and deflect in the rocks like the stock 43mm forks did.
    Here is a good video of a really long climb up a mountain that's covered with loose rocks and slick leaves from Sunday. My friends on the 2015 Husky 350 and 2017 KTM 500 struggled where my DR just soaked it all up and motored right along. Start watching around 2:50



    Here's another that's not quite as rock but does have some pretty large rain ruts...

    tatt2mike likes this.
  13. KShow

    KShow Been here awhile

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  14. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    It the rider not the bike ;)
  15. Jeff@TheQuadShop

    Jeff@TheQuadShop TAT survivor

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    I do agree with you but, both of those guys are very experienced!
  16. Anonawesome

    Anonawesome Scenic Rider

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    Your clutch plates might be glazed over. I know you said they're pretty new, but I think what causes it is getting them really hot. You can try to rough up the surface a little with some 1000 grit sandpaper and see if that helps. That's the only thing I can imagine being the cause if your cable is indeed adjusted right as you said.

    One thing you can do to isolate the problem is adjust the cable as loose as you can until it drags a little when you start off. That would make sure that with the lever released, the clutch is 100% disengaged, and if it still slips, then it's definitely something in the clutch.
  17. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    100% engaged
    Anonawesome likes this.
  18. Anonawesome

    Anonawesome Scenic Rider

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    Yeah I always get that one mixed up. You get the idea though.
  19. Friedom

    Friedom Onward and upward!

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    Derek has non - US genuine Mikuni 5 clip needles for the BST33 (not even close to the same as a pumper needle, btw) that allow you to dial that in.
    He said for a dirt model. I ruined some ADVMonster LEDs running them on an A/C dirt model dr350.
    With that said, if you can get it still the original ADVMonster h4 LED is cool with AC power and works great.

    Just tried my H4 rev3 for the first time 20 min ago. I have it installed in a cheapo street fighter fairing. Excellent spread and illumination. Going to wire in a diode so that hi = hi + lo.
  20. tatt2mike

    tatt2mike Been here awhile

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    Sep 29, 2016
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    171
    I am running an auxbeam f16 h4 in mine and I would probably melt my front end off with Hi+Lo. LOL