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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.
whats the story on the seat? stock seat sucks a bag of dicks, yours looks much more leveler
Haha its stock I think. The cover is just changed from yellow? to black.
I havent done anything to it yet and the mounting looks factory too. Its wide and tall and ugly in the rear...
I think the rear fender makes it look better, but Im still planning on cutting it lower and narrower from the back to make it "flow" better with the fender.
Thank you sir.
I guess thats how I lost my compression...
I finally got around to checking the condition of my tensioner and found that I'm only five clicks or so from fully extended. So I guess the next thing I need is a step-by-step guide to replacing the camchain...
That seat does look taller. Kindda like the guts racing foam and seat cover.
I think I have everything I need to do the RM fork swap except the bushing. I've read the thread on Maximum-Suzuki a couple times but I don't see where it says what are being used for bushings. What are those who have done this used?
Do a complete write up on it.
Another stupid question... Now I got them so that they move a bit up n down, do I need to worry about the play? Cause when the rocker is up, the gap is bigger ofcourse. Do I need to push down to get rid of the play while I adjust?
The exhaust adjusting pieces seem to be stuck too. I removed the nut but it didnt change a thing. Help?
Any tips for a good adjusting tool would be appreciated too. Now Im using about 5-6in wrench which can barely move.
The feeler gauge needs to take up all available space and provide just a little drag when you move it back and forth. Do not push down on it or pull up on it...the feeler gauge needs to be the only "feel" you have for the spacing.
It sounds to me like you may not be at TDC on the compression stroke. Be absolutely, 100% sure that you are at TDC on the compression stroke before you adjust any valve clearances.
Is there anyone near you who has done this before on any other machine? If so, I think it would be very helpful to have them show you how it is done. The principle is the same for countless engines.
Hope this helps!
I meant push the rocker down.But nevermind, I just stuck the gauge in and tightened so that I could still move the gauge. I have intakes now tightened so that .006mm gauge fits in the gap firmly. It moves back and forth, but isnt too tight so Id say its perfect. I rechecked them after tightening the nuts too.
I saw exhaust go down then up, then intakes go down then back up. A bit after that I had the T in the hole. This is how my engine is atm. And the rockers have some play.
I also checked the other possibility when T comes before intakes move at all. And this is wrong.
Intake screws moved easily, even with fingers. BOTH exhaust screws seem to be completely stuck. While I screwed the nuts loose, the screws rotated with the nuts. So now the gap is over 1mm. Somehow I gotta get the screws loose, screws to correct clearance and nuts back on.
Thanks for your advice, dont know where Id be without adv
Anybody have a good bottom end for sale? I'm looking for one.
If I can't find one at a good price, looks like I'll be parting out my 96 350se.
A few days ago a guy was selling two used dr350s for parts in the Albany ny Craigslist.
Well, if I can't get my '92 DR350 S (street model) started, there may be some parts available soon.
I'm another inmate with a '92 kick-only, and I can't for the life of me get it started. I've had it for a little while, and had taken some time getting jetting help and a Dynojet kit installed by a good local mechanic. After some jetting fumbling, it ran ok. Then I took a trip to Alaska, life got chaotic, and the bike sat with Stabil in the tank for 10 months. No start since.
Things I've done:
Checked battery voltage, refreshed battery with Opti-mate charger
Cleaned carb (with generic shop solvent and compressed air)
Changed carb o-rings
Added fresh 37.5 pilot jet
Added fresh 140 main jet
verified float needle in good shape and float height ok
Set valve clearances properly
Changed spark plug (it was oily, perhaps from an oil overfill?)
Changed spark plug cap
Verified spark (mechanic friend saw spark when plug was grounded against an engine fin and bike kicked over)
Cleaned air filter
Leakdown test (5-10% leak through oil cap, not too bad)
Checked resistance of pickup coil; 213 ohms resistance, spec is 250 but mechanic friend with thumper experience claims that shouldn't be off enough to prevent starting
Still no love. Bike has Dynojet kit, stock carb, stock exhaust (though it wouldn't run with the aftermarket White Bros. exhaust in there either), and 3 1.5" holes drilled in the top of the airbox.
Got it bump-started today--once. Ran for 5 minutes and died, won't re-start.
Any ideas for further checks? The manual says that the pickup coil is an integral part of the stator, and the OEM replacement is $500 pricy. Should I be looking to eBay for a new stator/pickup coil, looking elsewhere, etc?
Thanks for the guidance, fellers.
i stuck this bough behind the framerails this hold the chain in direction and also the pinion in place without any clip ,durabel for 100 kilometers than i stuck anotherone in,understand what i try to explain?
I actaully think I do understand.
This is regards to losing the cir-clip that holds on the front sproket on.
Jamm a stick between the frame rails so that it keeps the sprocket on. The chain will rub on the stick but it is good for a while.
Hope I never have to do this, but a good trick to remember.
sparkplugs are cheap, i would buy a new one and give it a shot
He changed already, or you mean another new? Does the bike start by push starting?
Another new plug is in there now.
It starts, with some difficulty, after push starting.
And exciting update: it starts after 30 priming kicks with the decomp lever in, then kicking through after finding TDC. Not 5, not 25...30.
Idles high and rough and hangs up briefly after rolling off the throttle, died a couple of times riding around my neighborhood, so I have some more jetting to do to stabilize 'er. But it's a relief simply to get it running.
Rebuild the carbs......seals leaking and sucking air?
Does anyone have a recommendation for aftermarket front fender to replace the ugly stock one?