DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. plugeye

    plugeye mc caregiver

    Joined:
    May 11, 2007
    Oddometer:
    4,070
    Location:
    Garland, Texas
    whats the story on the seat? stock seat sucks a bag of dicks, yours looks much more leveler
  2. Teeeeeemu

    Teeeeeemu Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2012
    Oddometer:
    104
    Location:
    Finland
    Haha its stock I think. The cover is just changed from yellow? to black.
    I havent done anything to it yet and the mounting looks factory too. Its wide and tall and ugly in the rear...
    I think the rear fender makes it look better, but Im still planning on cutting it lower and narrower from the back to make it "flow" better with the fender.

    Thank you sir.:freaky
    I guess thats how I lost my compression...
  3. TheOtherBart

    TheOtherBart Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,054
    Location:
    DeKalb County, Illinois
    I finally got around to checking the condition of my tensioner and found that I'm only five clicks or so from fully extended. So I guess the next thing I need is a step-by-step guide to replacing the camchain...
  4. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Aug 18, 2009
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    3,686
    Location:
    Truckee
    That seat does look taller. Kindda like the guts racing foam and seat cover.
  5. Chicken Helmet

    Chicken Helmet I'm A Stumperâ„¢

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2010
    Oddometer:
    5,057
    Location:
    Jacksonville Fl
    I think I have everything I need to do the RM fork swap except the bushing. I've read the thread on Maximum-Suzuki a couple times but I don't see where it says what are being used for bushings. What are those who have done this used?:ear
  6. tkent02

    tkent02 Long timer

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    Dec 6, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,986
    Location:
    Littleton, CO
    Do a complete write up on it.
  7. Teeeeeemu

    Teeeeeemu Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2012
    Oddometer:
    104
    Location:
    Finland
    Another stupid question... Now I got them so that they move a bit up n down, do I need to worry about the play? Cause when the rocker is up, the gap is bigger ofcourse. Do I need to push down to get rid of the play while I adjust?

    The exhaust adjusting pieces seem to be stuck too. I removed the nut but it didnt change a thing. Help?

    Any tips for a good adjusting tool would be appreciated too. Now Im using about 5-6in wrench which can barely move.
  8. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,256
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
    The feeler gauge needs to take up all available space and provide just a little drag when you move it back and forth. Do not push down on it or pull up on it...the feeler gauge needs to be the only "feel" you have for the spacing.

    It sounds to me like you may not be at TDC on the compression stroke. Be absolutely, 100% sure that you are at TDC on the compression stroke before you adjust any valve clearances.

    Is there anyone near you who has done this before on any other machine? If so, I think it would be very helpful to have them show you how it is done. The principle is the same for countless engines.

    Hope this helps!

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  9. Teeeeeemu

    Teeeeeemu Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2012
    Oddometer:
    104
    Location:
    Finland
    I meant push the rocker down.But nevermind, I just stuck the gauge in and tightened so that I could still move the gauge. I have intakes now tightened so that .006mm gauge fits in the gap firmly. It moves back and forth, but isnt too tight so Id say its perfect. I rechecked them after tightening the nuts too.

    About TDC:
    I saw exhaust go down then up, then intakes go down then back up. A bit after that I had the T in the hole. This is how my engine is atm. And the rockers have some play.

    I also checked the other possibility when T comes before intakes move at all. And this is wrong.

    Intake screws moved easily, even with fingers. BOTH exhaust screws seem to be completely stuck. While I screwed the nuts loose, the screws rotated with the nuts. So now the gap is over 1mm. Somehow I gotta get the screws loose, screws to correct clearance and nuts back on.

    Thanks for your advice, dont know where Id be without adv ;)
  10. mrpopgun

    mrpopgun Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    38
    Location:
    Southern Oregon
    Anybody have a good bottom end for sale? I'm looking for one.

    If I can't find one at a good price, looks like I'll be parting out my 96 350se.
  11. devo2002

    devo2002 -Devo

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2010
    Oddometer:
    4,049
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    A few days ago a guy was selling two used dr350s for parts in the Albany ny Craigslist.
  12. Rex Nemo

    Rex Nemo horizon calling

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2008
    Oddometer:
    324
    Location:
    SF Bay
    Well, if I can't get my '92 DR350 S (street model) started, there may be some parts available soon. :lol2

    I'm another inmate with a '92 kick-only, and I can't for the life of me get it started. I've had it for a little while, and had taken some time getting jetting help and a Dynojet kit installed by a good local mechanic. After some jetting fumbling, it ran ok. Then I took a trip to Alaska, life got chaotic, and the bike sat with Stabil in the tank for 10 months. No start since.

    Things I've done:


    • Checked battery voltage, refreshed battery with Opti-mate charger
    • Changed oil
    • Changed gas
    • cleaned petcock
    • Cleaned carb (with generic shop solvent and compressed air)
    • Changed carb o-rings
    • Added fresh 37.5 pilot jet
    • Added fresh 140 main jet
    • verified float needle in good shape and float height ok
    • Set valve clearances properly
    • Changed spark plug (it was oily, perhaps from an oil overfill?)
    • Changed spark plug cap
    • Verified spark (mechanic friend saw spark when plug was grounded against an engine fin and bike kicked over)
    • Cleaned air filter
    • Leakdown test (5-10% leak through oil cap, not too bad)
    • Checked resistance of pickup coil; 213 ohms resistance, spec is 250 but mechanic friend with thumper experience claims that shouldn't be off enough to prevent starting
    Still no love. Bike has Dynojet kit, stock carb, stock exhaust (though it wouldn't run with the aftermarket White Bros. exhaust in there either), and 3 1.5" holes drilled in the top of the airbox.

    Got it bump-started today--once. Ran for 5 minutes and died, won't re-start.

    Any ideas for further checks? The manual says that the pickup coil is an integral part of the stator, and the OEM replacement is $500 pricy. Should I be looking to eBay for a new stator/pickup coil, looking elsewhere, etc?


    Thanks for the guidance, fellers.
  13. trailhiker

    trailhiker Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    57
    Location:
    BRD
    i stuck this bough behind the framerails this hold the chain in direction and also the pinion in place without any clip ,durabel for 100 kilometers than i stuck anotherone in,understand what i try to explain?:deal
  14. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Aug 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,686
    Location:
    Truckee
    I actaully think I do understand.

    This is regards to losing the cir-clip that holds on the front sproket on.

    Jamm a stick between the frame rails so that it keeps the sprocket on. The chain will rub on the stick but it is good for a while.

    Hope I never have to do this, but a good trick to remember.
  15. mrphotoman

    mrphotoman Long timer

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    Feb 20, 2011
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    1,530
    Location:
    KBR27
    sparkplugs are cheap, i would buy a new one and give it a shot
  16. Teeeeeemu

    Teeeeeemu Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2012
    Oddometer:
    104
    Location:
    Finland
    He changed already, or you mean another new? Does the bike start by push starting?
  17. Rex Nemo

    Rex Nemo horizon calling

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2008
    Oddometer:
    324
    Location:
    SF Bay
    Another new plug is in there now.
    It starts, with some difficulty, after push starting.
    And exciting update: it starts after 30 priming kicks with the decomp lever in, then kicking through after finding TDC. Not 5, not 25...30. :rofl

    Idles high and rough and hangs up briefly after rolling off the throttle, died a couple of times riding around my neighborhood, so I have some more jetting to do to stabilize 'er. But it's a relief simply to get it running.
  18. Lasherman

    Lasherman Ah Sh!t!

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2010
    Oddometer:
    199
    Location:
    Turlock, Ca
    Rebuild the carbs......seals leaking and sucking air?

  19. O'Hooligan

    O'Hooligan Ken Dodd's dads dogs dead

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2003
    Oddometer:
    642
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    Does anyone have a recommendation for aftermarket front fender to replace the ugly stock one?
  20. Colbycheese

    Colbycheese Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 8, 2009
    Oddometer:
    107
    Location:
    western burbs