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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.
Have you replaced the vacuum petcock
Yep, rebuilding the carbs might be the way to go--an air leak in there somewhere seems feasible. And I have the Clark big tank on there, with a Raptor petcock that I've verified flows fuel just fine. Rode around the 'hood a bit more, and it stopped dying, though still runs rough. I'm still just way pleased to have gotten it running at all.
you need a set of tappet adjusters. - http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-Tappet-Adjustment-08-0073/dp/B000JP31T8
the nuts are only there to keep the tappets from moving once you have them set to the right gap. the tappet adjuster are two pieces, one's pretty much a specialized wrench to break loose the lock nut, the other is a square driver to turn the tappet itself.
there are surprising very few videos that show how to do a tappet style valve adjust online. i just spent like 15 min looking for a good one and didn't really come up with anything. hmm.
I didnt need adjusters for intake valves, I rotated the square and held it still while tightening with a small spanner while I tightened the nut. Dont really need any scientific guide for that, tho I asked for help here
My problem became the exhaust side clearances. I got the the right side screw (tappet) to move freely and adjusted it properly, holding with the spanner while tightening the nut. 3/4 done
Oh and the lock nuts came out easily with an 8mm ring spanner
Left side tappet/screw was and is completely stuck. While I unscrewed the nut the tappet came out with it too (not all the way, just so the clearance is huge) Managed to screw up (heh) the threads from the nut too. Now I need some big ass tools to get the tappet out and order a new one with a nut. Freaking 16 for one.
If you have access to deck screws you can make a tool like this.
after I get the stuck one moving. And find those screws somewhere...
Been planning to do that very thing myself with a square drive screw!
Thanks for the link.
Front end of the bike is in peices again. This is the final assymbly of the RM fork swap. Kind of a bitch getting all the parts of the headset and triples just right. Jsut venting. Hoping to get her done so i can ride it to work on thrusday. Maybe even go for a real ride on Friday.
As a side note, was jsut doing some reading about the helmet lock on the DR350. Really. There was a helemt lock. I see one for sale on E-bay. Where would one install such a device. Was it a Candian thing, as both the reference and the e-bay seller are Canadian.
Thought I would share, as it is new to me info, and I thought I have been aroudn the DR block a few times to know about most things like this.
Yes sir,it works to bring me in to the camp where i can put a new clip on.
My '92 DR350S came with one. There is a tab on the frame on the left side near the back that it bolts to - behind the stock tool holder.
Anyone have a feel for how much oil it takes to get from the bottom of the safe mark to the top on the DR350 dipstick?
Are you talking about over filling the bike? If so, it takes maybe 2-3 cups to overfill it. If you're talking about from the very bottom of the dipstick (low-level) to the appropriate "F" mark, the answer is the same.
just did this, although it was a little below the lower mark, it took 8 oz. to the full mark.
I'm second guessing parting my 96 350se out which means I would be looking for parts. I'm putting this in the sales section too, but thought I would throw this out there
1) I either need a good electric start bottom end
2) Good piston and pin
1) Good crankshaft
2) Good piston and pin
If I can find just the crank, well then I guess I'm going to learn how to split a case
Same here on my 96.
yeah, the s models had em. sorry for the dark picture, but you can see the tab hanging down under the rear fender on mine, just below the turn signal (lock not present).
currently working on a mount for a bottle opener to bolt to mine.
So looking at the fiche and cross-model part lookup based on a '96 350se, it appears that on the DR's, it's the same crank for every single bike, all years. Is that true? Kick vs electric? Dirt vs Street?
Edit: One other question
I found a local '92 dirt model bike for a good deal. Are the engine cases interchangeable between the older kick model and my newer electric model? I know I'd have to move over the stator and such, but not sure the cases are the same. What about the starter? If I just I just installed the whole dirt motor, could I get the lights to work for street use?
Will the Raptor petcock work on the stock tank? If so which years? My petcock is leaking and I hate vacuum petcocks anyways.