DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. auto

    auto Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2007
    Oddometer:
    90
    I have a 92 drs 350 that has been pretty easy starting.All of suddenit became difficult to start.Fresh gas,carb cleaned.I towed it to get it started.Would not rev out clean.Pulled the plug and it was black and suty.Is there any history of igntions going bad on these bikes?In most cases they work or don't work.Not sure about this one.
    Thanks for any help.
  2. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,263
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
    Here is the speedometer I fit to my dirt model. It has worked very well for me the past 1 3/4 years (10,000 + miles).
    http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/dr350.htm#gtb_speedometer_-_baja_designs

    Here is the rear disc and pads I fit. Disc works lovely. Pads wore out in 3000 miles (though I hear that is common for organic kevlar pads).
    http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/dr350.htm#gtb_brake_disc_replacement

    As for valve adjustment, I just set my valves to the loose end of the spec for my year. The only "trick" is to use (or make) a little tool for turning and holding the tiny square adjuster.
    Pro Cycle sells the valve adjustment tool here:
    http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr350.html

    Or you can make your own with a #2 square drive screw and a short piece of dowel.

    Should you need any of the commonly replaced o-rings, let me know. I can help you out with those.

    Hope this helps!

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  3. Canadian FJR

    Canadian FJR Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 9, 2008
    Oddometer:
    128
    Location:
    Nova Scotia, Canada
    "Time for a tune up. Does anyone have helpful tips and tricks on adjusting the valves on a 99SE. Also anyone with link to where I might find a good deal on rear rotor and pads. also... anyone put in an after market speedo.. my original cracked right off of the plastic bottom plate of the unit and now the odometer does not work. thanks in advance "

    Bump for the OP, time for valve adjustment here also.



    Canadian FJR
  4. BAD-MOD

    BAD-MOD professional fiddler

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2011
    Oddometer:
    163
    Location:
    New Zealand
    Hey guys do you know of any cool aftermarket chain guides ?
    will a chain guide of any rm's or other models fit ????
  5. silverwasp

    silverwasp Silverwasp

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    hither and yon
    Thank you thank you... you made my day Mr Bender. cheers. :clap
  6. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    1,974
    Location:
    DFW TX
    Just checked my valves yesterday. Remove the tank, remove the two plugs on the stator/rotor cover, remove the rocker covers, and I removed the coil for extra clearance. Remove the spark plug and rotate the crank shaft with a socket wrench in the direction the motor runs ( counter clockwise looking from the left side ). Watch the intake valves open then close. Then slowly continue to rotate the crank shaft and watch for the " T " ( top dead center ) on the fly wheel through the small inspection hole. You should be able to feel that all the valves are loose now. Use a feeler gage and check the valve clearance. You should get a slight friction drag with the gage. I set my intake valves on .003", and exhaust on .008". You might want to bend a 8mm 12 point box end wrench and make a sguare drive tool to make it easier, but it can be done without it. Put it back together and your done. :D
  7. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    I recently read all 850 + pages here and didn't notice igniton problems as a trend. Seem to be pretty trouble free compared to other models. Far more carb/jet discussions than ignition. Check all the usual stuff, air cleaner, choke, float, float valve and float valve 0-ring, vent tube, petcock diaphram, if it's the vacume kind.
  8. GaThumper

    GaThumper Road Less Traveled

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2006
    Oddometer:
    514
    Location:
    Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
    Jesse sells one, but I heard recently that they weren't shipping out of the US.

    http://www.kientech.com/DR350AdjustableChainGuide.htm

    Scotts Performance is where I got mine, but it looks like they don't sell them any more. I think it was the same one Jesse sells.

    Moose lists one for the '90-'92 DR350. Maybe that would fit all DR350s? or were '90-92 different? I think it would be the right one since the same part number fits the RMX250 and I seem to remember that they are interchangable. The same part also lists for '89-'91 RM 125/250 and a few Kawasaki's, so that cross reference might help find an aftermarket listed for one of the other compatible bikes.

    http://assets-static.lemansnet.com/sites/mooseracing/pdf/chainguides.pdf


    Fredette Racing might be the same as Moose, fitment is the same...

    http://www.frpoffroad.com/Fredette-Racing-Products-FRP-Chain-Guide-detail.htm?productId=-153652

    <TABLE class=pd-partnum-table id=pd-partnum-table-raw><TBODY><TR id=pd-optionNum--153669 part="pd-optionPartNum-01-013"><TD class=pd-option-number>01-013</TD><TD class=pd-option-desc>FRP Chain Guide. Fits Kawasaki KX125-250 88-96 KX50088-04, KDX's 89-06. Suzuki RM 89-90 RMX 89-97 DR'S 90-92. Blue</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
  9. auto

    auto Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2007
    Oddometer:
    90
    Kind of hoping it's not a igntion problem.You really read all the dr350 posts!
  10. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    Yep, and all 903 pages of the Transalp Mod thread. :eek1:eek1 I'm retired. :D
  11. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    The Fredette Racing one came on my DR and I really like it (though I've not compared it to anything else, really). I also like that I can purchase slide blocks from them for not much money. Good stuff :>

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  12. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Hi all,

    It seems I'm doing a good job of breaking shock reservoir brackets. The breakage is not due to crashes, but rather due to vibration, etc. I'm purchasing a new bracket, but I'm curious if anyone has some tips to help prevent another break. Thanks!

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  13. GaThumper

    GaThumper Road Less Traveled

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    Oddometer:
    514
    Location:
    Thumpin' in North GA - headin' for the Smokys
    Only thing I can think of other than a stronger bracket would be adding some rubber washers and/or grommets. I've added rubber isolation to a few fasteners on my DRs. Haven't had a problem with my shock reservoir though, so I haven't looked at that specific mount to see how it would work. On my aftermarket exhaust the hole in the bracket was larger than the bolt so I was able to use a grommet and two robber washers to make a completely isolated mount. On the skid plate I just used a rubber washer and a stainless washer on each side of the plate.
  14. wangiles

    wangiles Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 10, 2009
    Oddometer:
    10
    Dear all. Having problem with my dr350. After about a week of not using the bike, it suddenly won't throttle above 3k rpm. It bogs down to nothing and will die off. I have been experiencing leaking at the top block gasket area. Have top up the engine oil but still same scenario. Any idea? Ultimately, if no solution, would rebuliding the engine the only alternative?

    Do advise gurus and many thanks!

    Sent from my HTC Flyer P510e using Tapatalk 2
  15. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2003
    Oddometer:
    5,063
    Location:
    Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
    Seems more like a carb issue to me. Float needle valve leaking (rotted O-ring) perhaps? If you have the stock vacuum-operated fuel valve, the diaphragm in it would be a likely culprit too.
  16. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    Kind of hard to tell. Not enough back ground information. Engine rebuild is always a good idea, but probably not needed. Most of this type of problem is carb/fuel related. Start with the basics; fuel, spark, compression. Eliminate the most possible problem and go on to the next. If you run into something you don't understand, ask a question, someone will be able to help.
  17. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    Noob - fill out your profile and provide more details on your bike. Could be carb. diaphragm failure, fuel starvation, water in fuel, blocked air intake - or not! What year and model, history, modifications, overall condition, recent service work, etc? What things have you checked already? What is your skill level?
  18. groundrules

    groundrules Long timer

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    Aug 3, 2007
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    2,006
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    Oh hiya
    Hi gang,
    I've posted a few times recently about sorting out a DR350S (1991, kick) that I'm reviving. In the process of sorting the carb and doing the airbox mod, I noticed that the previous owner had plugged the port on the rubber carb intake boot (between the airbox and the carb). In looking at the parts fiche, is appears this was originally piped to the crankcase breather system. I can't figure out how exactly. My current crankcase breather hose is just kind of a straight shot up from the case and the hose loops around a bracket behind the rear brake reservoir. It terminates in what looks like a one-way valve of some sort. So my questions:

    1. is it okay to leave the port on the carb boot plugged and separate from the breather system?
    2. is the current breather set-up sufficient sufficient? I'm wondering if breathing is improved by the airflow through the boot, or if it's just an emissions thing, to scrub fumes and re-burn them.

    Picture of the carb boot, port in question is right in the center:
    [​IMG]
  19. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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  20. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Oddometer:
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    Location:
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    Stop riding so HARD!

    Might you be bumping or pulling on the reservoiur. It is in the stock loaction