DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. jag007

    jag007 n00b

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Salem, Oregon
    I've found a Mfr who currently has a brace for DR650 and needs a DR250/250 to measure. He'll then build a Fork Brace that we all could get for the DR 250/350.
    Mfr is in Gilroy, CA between San Jose & Salinas - If you or anyone you know can get your DR to him for measure - we can make it happen.:rofl

    Thanks to all,
    Jack

    I don't always drink beer. But when I do, I prefer Dos Equis. Stay Thirsty My Friends!
  2. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

    Joined:
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    Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
    The case around the kickstart gears is not really strong enough to handle the extra loads from kickstarting without using the decompressor.

    Head and cylinder come off pretty easily without pulling the engine. If you find the bore is damaged, give some thought to a big bore kit. The rest of the engine is sturdy enough to handle it and the cost is similar to (or less than) stock parts. Given the age of the bike, make sure to replace all seals, including the little rubber covered washers on top of the cam cover when you put it back together.

    If it's got enough power for you and you keep a close eye on the oil level, you might just want to ride it for a bit.

    Good luck!
  3. shearboy2004

    shearboy2004 KIWIINUSA

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    Went for a good ride today , some nasty rockie single track and must have bashed the shifter on some rock , now the shaft is bent !!!:eek1:eek1

    Ok so I don't see a big problem in replacing it if it wasn't bent , clutch cover off and pull it out . But it is pretty bent to the point that at the latter part of the ride shifting was a lot harder .

    Should I try and straighten it and risk busting the case or try and bash it out ?

    The seal will have to be replaced so what about a shit load of heat and then try bending it ?

    Bit stuck on this one and hoping someone else has run into the same problem at some stage .


    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/_bnFkSjgYdoc7XiTjFDUtLzqh28Kh5x6mg9cW4pnXNI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-ggQcKqtybTQ/UGfy9m31DCI/AAAAAAAAZBE/dGgJWBcTgvM/s800/IMG_0545.JPG" height="800" width="600" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/107271616030602753609/DRGEARCHANGESHAFT?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">DR GEAR CHANGE SHAFT</a></td></tr></table>

    <table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/TFjDT80AOf3yAtiZ3CLu77zqh28Kh5x6mg9cW4pnXNI?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-H0uUtmw7fcU/UGfy-vCYiJI/AAAAAAAAZBI/7KFmv13RLck/s800/IMG_0546.JPG" height="800" width="600" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/107271616030602753609/DRGEARCHANGESHAFT?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">DR GEAR CHANGE SHAFT</a></td></tr></table>
  4. PWRCRZR

    PWRCRZR Grumpy Old Bastard

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    Is anybody running the 435 big bore kit from Thumper racing?

    Mine just started smoking like an old school bus so it looks like time to freshen the top end..
  5. daverbmxer

    daverbmxer Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2012
    Oddometer:
    47
    Location:
    North Dakota
    I had my bike tucked up under the eve of the garage roof in case it rained last night. I opened the garage door before I even rounded the corner, to hear a loud crack. The front fender is destroyed. There were bits of plastic all over the driveway.. Live and learn I guess.

    I believe what is on there is an Acerbis fender. I would love to have the same one again, in blue so it matches, but it's not listed on Acerbis's site and I can't find it anywhere online. Any ideas on that?

    I've done a bit of looking and found that the UFO front fenders are cheap and look good. They only come in white/yellow/black though. So I would have to get a white one I guess. Not really feeling like painting it and always fighting scratch marks.

    Do theese UFO RM/RMZ fenders require any drilling for the DR350? I ask because http://www.kientech.com/UFOFrontFender.htm says the bolt pattern is predrilled, but are they all that way or do they custom drill it? They also say it's an "updated" front fender. Are there 2 versions?

    Here's a picture of the bike with the Acerbis(?) fender.

    [​IMG]
  6. Teeeeeemu

    Teeeeeemu Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2012
    Oddometer:
    104
    Location:
    Finland
    Ive got RM-Z plastic kit for 08 onwards. The rear holes matched right up. Front holes arent vertical, more like diagonal \__ kinda like that. Red=hole.
    I drilled 2 more holes \__ for the front holes and added some washers and now it doesnt wobble at all even with 3 bolts.

    Point is, you can fit almost any fender to any bike by drilling a couple holes.

    E. Updated means it isnt 90s stock dr look. Its for 06 rm/rmz. It says DR350 holes predrilled so you buy it and bolt it on.
    If you want blue, look for yamaha fenders. All you have to do is drill a bit. You wont find matching blue though.
  7. daverbmxer

    daverbmxer Adventurer

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    Gotcha. Not sure if it's worth a few more bucks to get it predrilled. I saw it for $23.xx on another site but shipping is $7. I realize you are in Finland so you might not buy many things from U.S. based online stores. Perhaps someone could recommend if the predrilled route is worth it, or if not the best place to get a non predrilled one from? Unfortunately I doubt I could handle a blue that's a different shade than the rest of the bike. White would be better I think. Thanks for th info.
  8. Teeeeeemu

    Teeeeeemu Been here awhile

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    Dont you or anyone you know have anything like this?

    [​IMG]

    Dont pay for drilling man... Its like 5 minute job. Line it up, mark the spots and boom boom boom boom :D
    Fenders are usually 20-40$ (same in euros for me) so 30 for a predrilled is good imo. And even better deal if you dont have access to power tools. Shipping is what makes the deal i guess. And I just got my seat cover from the states a couple weeks ago. Plastic kit came from Sweden. Now im thinking of ordering an FMF exhaust from the US:deal
  9. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    I wonder if you can use a small die grinder or air cut off tool and grind/cut off the welded parts on the shaft on the clutch side and pull it out through the left side. Cut the shaft and/or grind off the weld. You would have to remove the clutch and other stuff but it might work. http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15735280&postcount=8282 Would be safer than trying to bend the shaft.

    [​IMG]
  10. daverbmxer

    daverbmxer Adventurer

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    North Dakota
    I have a drill and bits, I don't mind doing it. Any tips for knowing where to drill the holes, since when you're holding the fender in place you can't see where the bolts thread into?
  11. Teeeeeemu

    Teeeeeemu Been here awhile

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    I always did it some hard way but I just realised you could just check from the old fender. Put them like this )( and draw or scratch a little from the old fender holes.
  12. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    Take a thick piece of paper and tape it so it won't move to the bottom of the lower triple clamp. Push the four fender bolts through the paper to make a templet pattern. Or use the old broken fender. Now the tricky part. Use the templet or old piece of fender to mark the new holes square on the new fender. If you screw up, just "waller out" (technical machinist term) the holes a bit and use bigger washers.:D
  13. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    Or... Maybe on the bent end, you can take that cut off wheel and grind away only the part of the shaft that is pushed to the back. Can't tell from the picture if you can get all the bent part or not. Pull the seal and you might get a better idea. You could just cut the bent part off, but that eliminates any possibility of straighting the shaft back to remove it. More than likely, it's bent all the way to the bushing (I hope there's a bushing in there) and you won't be able to get to it. When you get it apart you'll be able to tell where the bend is by pushing the shaft back and forth.
  14. FlyingWman

    FlyingWman Been here awhile

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    Hold a piece of paper to the bottom of the triple where the original fender was mounted and trace the outline of the triple and poke holes where the bolt holes are. Put that piece of paper on top of the new fender and line up n drill. It doesn't matter if your fender is already drilled for a different bike or not at all. Get your color and for the cheapest. You can drill holes next to predrilled holes on a fender ment for a different model and not jeopardize strength. Just make sure its for a 250cc up so it'll fit a 21" front
  15. Stretch67

    Stretch67 Mad Scientist

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    Deleted
  16. shearboy2004

    shearboy2004 KIWIINUSA

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    Pretty sure it will be bent all the way back to the case , it's a plain bushing ,meaning there isn't one just alloy , tempting to try heat but the fallout is really bad if things went wrong .

    I have another shaft here and looking at it last night came to the same conclusion as you in grinding the clutch end down and pushing it through .
    It will be a time consuming project I'm sure, but beats splitting case's

    I'll wait the rest of the day to see if anyone else bainstorms my wee problem .

    Thanks Guy's .:freaky
  17. original mcguiver

    original mcguiver Adventurer

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    I would not be afraid to heat the shaft and straighten it enough to remove it or still use it. If you think about it, the case was strong enough to bend the shaft to the rear without breaking and the case looks stronger to the front. You will need to use a pipe that fits over the shaft pretty snug. Heat it on the side of the shaft facing the back of the bike with an acetylene torch :note it doesn't have to be Red hot.,, Hope it works out for you. (I have done this myself more than once, successfully)
  18. shearboy2004

    shearboy2004 KIWIINUSA

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    This is exactly what I was wanting to hear Mate !:clap

    Lucky you chimed in , I have washed the bike and just waiting for it to dry before I was going to pull the clutch side off and go for it with a grinder if I didn't hear from anyone .

    Thanks .
  19. shearboy2004

    shearboy2004 KIWIINUSA

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    OK I have been over thinking this problem , I went out looking for something to fit over the shaft and found a set of handle bars that came close , while trying the fit I thought I would give it a bit of a push to see how mild the steel was and it move and in fact moved straight. That shaft was not the hardened crap I was thinking it was going to be .:lol3

    Thanks for the input Guys :freaky
  20. Crenshaw

    Crenshaw Bum

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    I love it when a plan comes together.