DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. Teeeeeemu

    Teeeeeemu Been here awhile

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    1 Yes
    2 I jammed something between the swingarm and rear wheel. Not the best but only way for me
    3 Correct. I have the gap on there too.
    4 Yes. This sounds like your only possible reason. I dont know how the basket should move but it could be that too. I also just clearanced my hub and put in new plates and springs but havent had the chance to ride yet. Everybody has clutch problems haha
  2. Spad

    Spad Been here awhile

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    Thanks so much for the quick response (and others welcome too). I don't mind clunky shifting, but if it wants to stall when I stop the bike or I can't get it into neutral it needs fixing.

    - Spad
  3. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    First, I'm not a pro with this clutch. Mine was hard to find neutral sometimes also. I recently had my "98 apart to check the shift bolt and here's what I found. Removed clutch and stacked every thing in order of removal. Carefully removed the shift bolt. It was tight and felt like it had thread lock on it. Came out hard all the way, but didn't see any residue on the threads, Was careful not to move the shifter parts/linkage. Cleaned the threads, inside and out, with brake cleaner and reinstalled the bolt with thread lock solution. Replaced the drum sleeve and thrust washers with new ones and made an extra washer/spacer instead of sanding the drum for extra clearance. I made the spacer from .025" stainless, but that might be a little too much. Might change it to .015". I think the drum should turn easily and IMO it ought to have some end play, maybe about .005+". When every thing gets up to temp, I think the clutch hub will expand more than the sleeve and change the clearances. Reinstalled the old clutch (has less than a 1k miles on it). Torqued the nut to 40 ft-lb. If you're worried about the lock washer, get a new one, but you can simply bend it at a different place several times. I use an old, large screw driver to stake and unstake the lock washer. You can put a long screw driver/drift/rod accross the swing arm, thru the rear sprocket to keep things from turning. Also works for the newer bikes(KLR etc) to remove the nut on the CS sprocket with mega torque. Put it in a place where it won't get on a spoke. Probably should have checked the torque on the primary sprocket nut while I was in there. Oh well. Mine has a little torque/slap knock noise I don't like, but it's hard to define and is not consistant. Can't here it at all with the shield down. The clutch seems to work ok, although not as good as my old KLX300, or the Transalp. Still a little hard to get neutral. I don't get it, Honda and Yamaha had this figured out a long, long time ago. You could shift thoes old 125s and 250s up and down at will, anytime, anywhere with or without the clutch.. They shouldn't be putting out any bikes these days with clutch/shifitng problems. A new clutch should not need a break in period to shift properly, although will probably work a little better after a few miles.
  4. Teeeeeemu

    Teeeeeemu Been here awhile

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    I had to hold a little throttle and brakes in the traffic lights :deal Couldnt find neutral at all while the engine was running.
    Now just have to hope for the best

    Page 888 wohoo!:freaky
  5. Spad

    Spad Been here awhile

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    Well, I either found the problem or caused it.

    I got the basket off w/o problems, and didn't mangle anything up too badly getting the bending lock washer off. I made sure everything was OK with the thrust washers and spacer behind it (yup) and wanted to check out why the shift drum bolt was sitting a little proud. It seemed tight, but I figured the best thing to do would be to pull it, clean it off and reinstall it at the right torque with loctite, in case it didn't have any before. As you probably already suspect if you've read this far I torqued it off trying to get it out. It was either in too tight, cross threaded or I just screwed up. Either way, now I'm working on getting out the stub without messing up the shift drum. I've got the stub center drilled about 1/4" and am working with propane and an EZ out to turn it out. I don't know a more inappropriately named tool than an EZ out, but I do know if I break it off in the stub I may end up looking to buy more than just a shift drum bolt so I'm going slow.

    [Insert expletive here]

    At least now I have a good answer to why one should have more than one motorcycle. This one won't be running for a while.


    - Spad
  6. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    Looks like you've done this kinda thing before, but just go slow and use larger and larger bits till you get close then if the easy out doesn't work use a tap to get out the last bits. I think it's a 6x1mm. Don't force it, Like you said getting a broken "easy out" or tap out is a real problem. Not impossible, but not easy either. If you can find left hand/reverse twist drill bits, sometimes they catch in the broken part and unscrew it.
    From Distech's engine rebuild. http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=12924794&postcount=160 If things really go south, it looks like Kientech makes/sells an 8mm replacement bolt. You'd have to drill and tap the hole, but it might be a solution.
  7. Pablo83

    Pablo83 Sleep, Wrench, Ride

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    Drif10 has done a wonderful writeup on how to fix the clutch problem.

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=14083286&postcount=21
  8. Chiknmunky

    Chiknmunky Been here awhile

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    I just did a short 100 mi. ride on mine this morning and all is back to normal.Spad, from my recent learning experience,torque the clutch hub nut to spec,it could save you some grief.
    Ever since I have had this bike the clutch has felt weak even after a new clutch kit.When I had the clutch hub nut too tight the clutch hooked up like nobodys buisiness but it would'nt completely disengage.If I could find an inbetween I would be happy.
    Hope that bolt comes out for you Spad!
  9. gman94

    gman94 n00b

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    Jun 21, 2012
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    Hello all,

    I just recently got myself a 97' DR350SE and she has been running great. I have mostly only ridden her on the street and some fire-roads and she ran beautifully.

    Then this last weekend I had the chance to bring her out to the desert and race an enduro. Well... before the enduro I thought I would just go out and play. I hit a string of woops and right at the end the bike bogged down and would not want to run. I limped her back to the camp and started to remove the carb to clean it out and as soon as I pulled the air box boot off the carb a decent amount of gas dribbled out.

    I have already looked around on this thread for people with the same issue but I have not really come across anyone. I did see something about a T-vent mod, but I am not sure that that would solve the problem (I have the stock CV carb).

    All help is appreciated.
  10. PWRCRZR

    PWRCRZR Grumpy Old Bastard

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    Sorry spad I can't be much help with the clutch but good luck... I will need to check mine this off season.

    I have however been able to get out three times in the last week for trail rides on the little beast..what a great bike for trails..:clap

    Spent a few hours running mostly tight single track yesterday, lots of fun. This is only my 3rd season of riding off road and I only do about 20hrs a season so my skills are slowly improving. The biggest problem I run into with my DR is not writing checks with my rear wheel that my front can't cash..That 435 kit really gives these bikes a lot of bark for what they have for stock suspension. Between that and my lack of skills I often find myself getting into trouble because of over use of the throttle hand:D

    [​IMG]

    Hopefully this winter I will have time and funds to do some suspension upgrades, other than that just a little general maintenance is all she should need to get ready for next season.
  11. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    I'm not sure about the gas in your air box boot, but the T-Vent mod should be helpful with the symptoms you describe on the woops.

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  12. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    Might check for something in the needle and seat (float valve) and the o-ring on the seat.
  13. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    I take it you are not the original "G" man. He was a DR350 guru that had an awesome website (that has since been deleted).

    "T" vent could help your problem. Another thing to look at is the kick stand saftey. Best to delete it. Gas in the boot though??



  14. Stretch67

    Stretch67 Mad Scientist

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    According to my Suzuki manual, the '92 DR250S carb is a Mikuni BST33SS. The DR250N has a Mikuni TM31SS.

    Unknown regarding the airbox & duct similarities. I don't have a 350 to compare it to (yet).

    I can't find anything in the manual regarding horsepower, although I would agree 29 HP seems pretty optimistic.

    I have read 250 and 350 CDI's are different in advance curves due to the 250 making it's max power at higher RPM compared to the 350.

    Stock sprocket size on my '94 was 15/43. Nearly all my riding is on single-track, so I changed it to 13/47.
  15. Pablo83

    Pablo83 Sleep, Wrench, Ride

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    Carb - BST28 sounds right, but I really don't know.

    Airbox is the same, but the duct is different.

    Horsepower - feels like 18; just a guess.

    CDI is interchangeable. People say the DR250's spark advance is more aggressive, and they are probably right; I've found if you put it on a DR350 with a higher compresison ratio (10.5:1) it will ping below 7000 ft elevation.

    I never noted what my stock gearing was on the 250. Something to keep in mind is the 250 has a different primary drive ratio than the 350, so you really can't compare final drive ratios with the 350. Most of the time I run 14/47 on my bike which has the 250 primary drive and tranny.
  16. gman94

    gman94 n00b

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    As for the kick stand safety that was one of my first things to remove when I first got the bike.

    And yes after a short ride through a string of woops, the second I would give just a little throttle she would bog out so I limped it back to camp and started to remove the carb, as soon as I loosened the clamp for the air box side boot it drained out a good stream of gas.
  17. FlyingWman

    FlyingWman Been here awhile

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    Check your float level and the condition if the needle/seat
  18. gman94

    gman94 n00b

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    The float is right in spec and the needle and seat look almost new.
  19. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    "T" vent the carb, it is quick and easy, before you dig any deeper. The "T" vent is suppose to cure two things, bogging in the woops and starting issues after laying the bike down.
  20. wawarides

    wawarides where's Laura0107?

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    Nothing worked for my "finding neutral when running but at a stop" problem until I scored some NOS OEM steel & fiber plates off eBay. The plates that were in there looked nearly new, though I didn't measure, and appeared to be a Barnett kit judging by the look of the fiber ones. The OEM part number for one of the two (can't remember whether it was the steel or fiber), had been superseded over the years and I bought the old part number, with no problems. Shifts like buttah now and no problems finding neutral. I've got the part numbers of what I bought written in my maintenance records; if anyone is interested let me know and I'll look it up.