DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. wawarides

    wawarides where's Laura0107?

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    Nothing worked for my "finding neutral when running but at a stop" problem until I scored some NOS OEM steel & fiber plates off eBay. The plates that were in there looked nearly new, though I didn't measure, and appeared to be a Barnett kit judging by the look of the fiber ones. The OEM part number for one of the two (can't remember whether it was the steel or fiber), had been superseded over the years and I bought the old part number, with no problems. Shifts like buttah now and no problems finding neutral. I've got the part numbers of what I bought written in my maintenance records; if anyone is interested let me know and I'll look it up.
  2. kobukan

    kobukan almost gnarly

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    I suspect the T-Vent Mod will solve your problems. On rough terrain, woops, or a tip-over, poor venting causes fuel to build up in the vent line and not drain properly, which causes the bogging or difficult restarting. This is a well-known issue with these bikes, typically solved with the T-Vent Mod. Fuel is always sloshing around in the carb and some will enter the vent and needs to be able to drain out. When you removed the boot the fuel that came out may have been excess fuel that was in the vent line trying to get out - it just ran back into the carb.

    T-Vent Mod is cheap and easy - suggest you do that and go for another ride. Let us know how you make out.
  3. kobukan

    kobukan almost gnarly

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    Just a little note regarding all the clutch / finding neutral issues.

    On my '99 DR350 clutch cable adjustment is critical. And, it has to be adjusted when the bike is warm/hot. If my cable gets a little loose I start getting a little clutch drag, and any little drag makes finding neutral difficult, if not impossible. I keep the cable adjusted so that it seems pretty tight when cold and have no problems at all finding neutral or shifting thru the gears - like buttah as previous poster said.
  4. hajime

    hajime Been here awhile

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    :clap

    Yep. the "T" vent should solve your starting issues.
  5. hajime

    hajime Been here awhile

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    Just installed an acerbis tank and it looks pretty plain compared to the stock tank. Anyone know where to get decals?
  6. RuggedExposure

    RuggedExposure Now with more rugged

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    I figure I would give you guys first dibs on this if anyone wants it, if not its going into the for sale section or ebay.

    $30 + shipping takes it.

    Light works, fairing is in great shape, decal still looks new, rubber straps are still stretchy

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
  7. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    I see that Kientech sells a longer clutch arm to make the pull easier. Except mine is really easy to pull and I'm not exactly a strong guy, so I don't know why you'd need it easier at the expense of loosing stroke length. Looks like that would make the problem worse. I thought about cutting the arm shorter, but you shouldn't have to do that. From what I've read, people who replace the clutch discs with new ones (maybe oem ??) report no more problems. If Suzuki got the expansion and friction properties wrong, then the question remains, why Suzuki didn't get it right on this one. Don't guess we can answer to that one. It's not like Motorcycle manufactures have any respect for intellectual property. If they do one thing well, it's copy stuff and smooth clutches and shifting has been available to copy for a long time. But then they can't seem to get gearing on a lot of models right either. Really all we need is a Trials bike low gear and a Road Racer top gear and just space out the rest of em. Well, maybe it's not that easy, but just sayin, by now you'd think they'd be better at it. Maybe it's an international thing. Maybe if they gear one for Japan and Europe, it's not right for US. But then how do you explain the DR650 ...too big for Japan? Still, it could have had a sixth gear. I think they use to make 50cc 12speed race bikes in Europe(maybe still do), so a six speed (KLR/DRZ/DR650/etc) shouldn't be a stretch. I know our DRs (and there clutches) are old and an extra gear on those other bikes would cost more $$$, but who here wouldn't be willing to pay a "little" more.

    And no, I don't really want a KTM.....Yet. :hide
  8. kobukan

    kobukan almost gnarly

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    Based on the popularity and reliability of the DR350 & DR650 I'd say Suzuki got it right. You can't please everyone, but they've sure made a lot of people happy for a long time.
  9. FlyingWman

    FlyingWman Been here awhile

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    x2 :deal
  10. Spad

    Spad Been here awhile

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    The disks in my clutch, along with the pressure plate, spacer and thrust washers are new - put in maybe 100 miles ago by the PO. I don't know whose disks they are, so maybe they aren't OEM. After snapping off the shift drum bolt, the bike suffered a small setback in its riding season so I know I don't need to rush this. I armed myself with some left-turning bits, EZ outs, rags and magnets to catch chips in preparation for surgery and contacted Jesse at Kientech, looking into the larger diameter shift drum bolt in expectation that I could use it if I bunged up the threads in the drum in the course of repair.

    Turns out, the rumors are true. He's as helpful as people say, and his estimate for the work on the drum (new 8mm hardened bolt and re-bore on the "gearshaft cam stopper plate") and on the crank (to fix the possibility of counterbalancer/crankshaft violent interaction) was less than I'd spend on parts to do it myself (maybe not if I include what I buy to reassemble the engine, but I file those under tuition costs). I'll be pulling the drum and crank and shipping them off, cleaning up everything in the clutch I can and taking the time to go through the bike head to toe.

    I need to go back through the thread to see if there's a write-up of breaking down the engine to get those parts and reassembling it. I'll be taking pictures anyway, so there may be one soon in any case. That's mostly for myself to keep things straight, as I'm not a writer, but I'm pretty sure I'd be posting anyway with more questions as the surgery gets underway as this is new to me. Here's hoping I've already seen the only broken bolt of this whole adventure.

    - Spad
  11. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    There's some good info here http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=528784

    Thanks DisTech.

    If it was mine, I'd be trying to drill and tap that hole, or get some help if you need to.
  12. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    Oooh, I agree. Love the DR350, but they did quit making it ???? and the DRZ needs another gear (which is probably why most of us got the DR350)....the Dr650 is probably the best of the bunch if you don't get one of the older ones ('06 & older I think) with the exploding third gear. Sorry, I'm just old and cranky and lament the demise of the old, simple, XRs & XRL 250s and 400s and the like. Can't seem to warm up to the Versys, Vstrom types, etc.
  13. GlennR

    GlennR Playin' in the Fire

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    I have a buddy who wants to start riding and is on a very tight budget. He's a total beginner, so I'm going to get him started on a little CFR150F beater. Then I have an XT225, which has to be the easiest to ride dual sport made, so it'll be perfect for him to get street legal and build up a bit of experience on. After that, he'll be ready to shop for his own dual sport and I'm trying to think of what bikes to steer him towards. He's about 6' 1" or 2" and about 175-180 lbs. I know the XT225 can carry his weight fine, but I'm thinking he might fit better on a DR350.

    I'm curious about the fuel milage of a DR350. What's a "real average" that most folks get?
  14. devo2002

    devo2002 -Devo

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    I'm 200lbs and average 60mpg on the street with stock carb setup. I'm light on the throttle. It dips to 50mpg when doing trail riding. I'm 6'0" and started on an XT last year. I loved it but was a tad too short for me. The extra 50lbs is noticeable however.:deal
  15. GlennR

    GlennR Playin' in the Fire

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    50 lbs?

    I thought that the XT225 is 267lbs and the DR350 287 lbs, if that's right it just 20 lbs.

    If the DR350 is top heavy, like the DRZ400S, it probably feels like 50 lbs on the trails.

    60 mpg sounds pretty good.
  16. RuggedExposure

    RuggedExposure Now with more rugged

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    Got the molle panels in, for $9 each they sure beat the $180 Tank Vest.

    I attached a holster on the right side, I had this one laying around from an old vest. I really wanted it on the left so I'll probably order a left handed one whenever I get my Acerbis tank on here. But for now, I can still work my left hand over and use this if need be.
    [​IMG]

    I put a water bottle holder/storage pouch on the left side and still have room for other things like a gps holder. Plus the molle panels have internal storage large enough for maps. I'll end up trimming the excess off the straps once I get the Acerbis tank on here.
    [​IMG]

    For $20 I can't complain.
  17. Spad

    Spad Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the link; it's a great write-up.

    As to getting help, I am - from Kientech. I went back and forth for a while, but I really don't mind drilling and tapping (well, I do mind chipping out old bolts). In the end, I'd just end up with an equally lame bolt in a hole that might end up if anything slightly oversize. This way, I'll have a stronger bolt there.

    One of the reasons I got this bike is that it's a good one to learn wrenching on. Parts are still available, and it's not my regular ride so if I take a while I'm not left high and dry.

    -Spad
  18. kaukasion

    kaukasion Adventurer

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    quick question, the idle mixture screw, do you turn it out for more fuel or in for more fuel? i think im idling a lil rich and want to lean it out but im not convinced im turning it the right direction it starts and idles great but just seems to smell a lil rich
  19. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    I weighed my "98 DR350se (legal, e-start) the day I got it. With half tank (~ 2 gallons) it was 302 lbs. I don't find it top heavy at all. Not like the KLRs. I'm 6'- 160lbs. On a recent trip, about 50/50 off road with some single track, it averaged 68mpg (other models/your results may vary) at 7k ft to 12k ft in the northern NM mountains. Motor is stock with stock gearing, and has 325 frt and 510 rear Kenda K270s.
  20. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    Maybe I wasn't clear. I ment drill and tap it for the 8mm bolt if you can't get the old one out clean. If it doesn't work, you won't be much worse off. Still the same job, just have to get a replacement shift drum. But if you just want to do the wrenching, ok. I like working on em too. But these days I don't go out of my way to do major rebuilds. Done enough of that.