DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. Hotmamaandme

    Hotmamaandme Wishing I was riding RTW

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    Jan 10, 2006
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    2,724
    Location:
    Gardnerville NV


    I've got a 97 se with a kicker added. No de comp lever. Kick leg And a couple seals and a gear for inside the motor. That being said I didn't install it the previous owner a airplane mechanic did and the added kicker is why I chose that used dr350. It kicks easy when warm. I haven't tried to start it cold with a kick as I have a few screws in my knee so i dont push my leg if i dont have too.
  2. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
    All DR350's have decomp (or should have). If you don't have a lever, it's an automatic decomp built into the head/cam.
  3. shearboy2004

    shearboy2004 KIWIINUSA

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    This !:deal
  4. RuggedExposure

    RuggedExposure Now with more rugged

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    NM desert wasteland

    I kick started mine this morning and it was 37* F. No problem with the choke pulled out.
  5. reddirtjoe

    reddirtjoe motorcycle addict

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    Let's Ride some red dirt!!.... NorthCentOklahoma
    I have most if not all the parts for adding a kick starter, if anyone is interested.
  6. dirtyron

    dirtyron never grew up

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    Apr 30, 2007
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    345
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    taos new mexico
    so does the auto decompression in the head work with the add on kicker?
  7. nickgindy

    nickgindy Doing it Wrong

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    Jun 30, 2011
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    I'm trying to diagnose an issue I'm having. When I hook my brake wires to a volt meter I am getting 12 volts for running lights but then i connect my volt meter to the brake light wire and step on the brake im getting .16 of a volt. Any suggestions? Shouldn't it read 12 as well?
  8. shearboy2004

    shearboy2004 KIWIINUSA

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    Yes :clap
  9. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    Yup, 12V. Try the front brake lever. If you get the brake light, check the rear switch and/or wiring. If not, the orange wires from the ignition switch carry power to a lot of things (horn,tach,dash lights,etc). Look for a bad connection or open wire. Bad grounds can also run you in circles.
  10. djpreston

    djpreston Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2011
    Oddometer:
    19
    Location:
    Pretoria, South Africa
    Hey guys,

    I have a '93 "S" model loving every minute on her, but I find that the turn signals take a very long time to come on when selected and they blink very slowly, anyone have any advice? What should I be checking for?

    Thanks,
    Dale
  11. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Hi Dale,

    If the bulbs are standard incandescent bulbs, then is sounds like you just need to replace the flasher. If the bulbs are LED, then probably you need to replace the original flasher with an LED specific unit. (all this assumes your connections/grounds are in good shape)

    Hope this helps!

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  12. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Truckee
    Not just any incandescents. The flasher relay works off of resistance. Suzuki's use 23watt bulbs (? pretty sure that the right number). If you use other size bulbs the resitance is not right and the flasher will act odd. Also if you have a corroded contact it could acts as additional resistance and mess with the flasher . The flasher is located on the headlight mounting bracket.
  13. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Not clear as to what two wires you are probing. If you are talking about the rear taillight, it can be kind of confusing. I know my way around basic wiring and still messed up wiring a new tail light the first try. 3 wire system. Ground, running light and brake light. If you probe ground with tail light with the light on you should get 12volts. I think where I went wronge is that you can mix up the ground with the brake power line and still get 12v with the brake off.

    Now if you are talking about probing the brake light activation wires on the levers, those are one wire continuity swithces. Power on one side, none of the other (with the lever not activated), this might get you 12 volt if you probe both wires, as the dead side would act as a gorund. Once activated you now have 12 volts on both sides which would show no voltage or .16v. I am not at my bike to confirm this. But from memory I beleive this to be true.

    Did that jsut confuse things up more?
  14. kaukasion

    kaukasion Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2012
    Oddometer:
    24
    anyone have a spare bst33 cv carb sitting around after their pumper install?
    new lowley and becoming broke fast after adopting my lil money pit adventurer needs help
    :( i can pay but just cannot afford a "new" one

    i think my carbs slide sleeve/slide/diaphragm is junk and in my frustrations ive managed to break that lil copper tube that runs from the choke to the front of the carb :( "ive replaced everything else so far :( and the damn thing still wont hit more than 50ish mph
    and the new parts im thinking is going to run me about as much as buying another carb body if i can find one used then id have spare parts

    let me know guys and thanks for any help offered
    i love this bike and am having a blast putting it around town but i cannot go very far with this carb acting up :(
  15. tjoseph

    tjoseph Long timer

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    Feb 27, 2008
    Oddometer:
    19,700
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    East West Virginia
    Can somebody tell me what exactly was changed in the '98 and '99 DR350s? I'm considering a '96, but wondering if it's worth holding out for a '98 or '99. What was this big change, and is it something I could retrofit? Anybody have a DR350 electric start that they're looking to sell, in the mid-Atlantic region?
  16. tntmo

    tntmo Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
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    535
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    San Diego, CA
    The front forks were changed from damper rod style forks to carrtridge style with adjustable compression and rebound damping on the 98 and 99 SE models. You can change the forks pretty easily, the front axle diameter changed in 94 if I remember correctly so if you have an older model you would need to change wheel bearings and associated parts. The dirt model got cartridge forks in 1994, with a slight upgrade in 97 I think.

    The brake caliper is a bit different on the 98-99 models also, I don't think the old model caliper will mount on the new style (98-99) forks.

    The 98-99 SE model also got the better rear shock from the dirt model, which has adjustable compression and rebound damping.
  17. djpreston

    djpreston Adventurer

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    Pretoria, South Africa
    Thanks for the advice guys, will check this weekend. :thumb
  18. tjoseph

    tjoseph Long timer

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    East West Virginia
    Thanks much for the info. Good stuff. I looked around and couldn'd find specifics anywhere. I sold my '93 DR350S a couple of years back because I found it too difficult to kick-start if I killed the engine on a hill or in other rough terrain. I wanted a lighter bike, with electric starting. I got a 2009 Yamaha XT250, but it just isn't powerful enough to satisfy. So I'm looking to go back to a DR350, and with luck I'll find a '98 or '99. They're very hard to find anymore. Ideally I'd find one with a kick-starter added (just in case).

  19. 5*DR350

    5*DR350 Adventurer

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    Nov 8, 2011
    Oddometer:
    14
    Location:
    Albany, N.Y.
    I'm looking to replace my fork seals. I had changed the fork oil which improved the feel but they have reverted to crappy feel so replacing fork seals. Looking at the manual it says to use a funky conical shaped tool to separate the tubes from each other. Is there another way without the special tool? I would love to be able to get it done today. Any help is much appreciated. Its a 93 street model.
  20. 5*DR350

    5*DR350 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2011
    Oddometer:
    14
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    Albany, N.Y.
    I undid the dampening adjustment screw at the bottom of the fork and compressed and pulled the fork tubes repeatedly and it popped the oil seal out slowly.