DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. RandyM

    RandyM Less talk, More ride

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    920
    Location:
    Westminster, Ca
    Durring my recent trip to death valley my my upper chain guard and lower chain guide seemed to spontaneously self-destruct. I suppose a rock or something must have got caught in there.

    [​IMG]


    I have a moose lower chain guide on order for the one under the swing arm. The upper chain guard as far as I know is only available from suzuki and a guy in Germany who makes them out of stainless steel:huh. I noticed that most dirt bikes do not come with the upper chain guard, but all dual sports do. Do you guys think this is really useful? I'm guessing that they only put those on street bikes to keep passenger feet away from the chain?
  2. MadChap

    MadChap Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2010
    Oddometer:
    482
    Location:
    Out of Prison
    I don't have chain guards on my DR nor my V-Strom. :evil
  3. Antti

    Antti Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2003
    Oddometer:
    188
    Location:
    Finland
    This is gone.
  4. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2007
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    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
    I'm guessing the longer guard can be very useful in preventing chain lube from flinging on things above it. I don't notice this problem when I ride dirt, but I do notice some chain lube fling when I ride long pavement distances a few times each year (hundreds of miles on a single hot day). Currently I only have the dirt chain guard, which only fits between the tire and the swing arm. I've been thinking about getting the longer version just for the chain lube issue on longer trips.

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  5. jmderyke

    jmderyke Miner

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2012
    Oddometer:
    43
    Location:
    State of Jefferson
    Ok i missed that info somehow, lol black soot is going to be from oil or poor engine combustion. Theres only two places you could be leaking oil from your piston rings or valve seals/guides/seat.

    Hows your engine compression? This should be your very first test when having problems with running conditions! Andwill save time and money! find a friend with a compression tester, normal compression is anywhere from 135- 180 psi anything below 100psi will NOT allow for good combustion. I dont think it will be close to 180 psi cause normal compression ratio is 9.5:1 in the dr350, If its very high you will have excessive carbon build up.

    Anyway if you cant find a friend with a compression tester id pull the header off and get a light and look at the exhaust valves, and if theres a bunch of build up behind the valve and /or its oily looking, this could be causing a poor seal allowing for poor running conditions and could explain the back fire and or the soot.

    Hope this will save you some time rather than ripping everything apart
  6. jmderyke

    jmderyke Miner

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2012
    Oddometer:
    43
    Location:
    State of Jefferson

    <iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/f4zyjLyBp64" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
  7. scottallen

    scottallen n00b

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2012
    Oddometer:
    3
    Happy new year! I finished putting together my 90 350s with a high compression weisco piston, and pumper carb to get the fullest out of the opened up air box and supertrapp exhaust. She has way more power now, but is grounding out somewhere she's not supposed to because I can start her in two kicks after trickle charging the battery, but then she is hard to start after riding. Anyways, i'm out of time and money and she has to go. I would like to sell her whole, but if no one is interested, in all of it, i will begin parting her out.

    She starts on the second kick after trickle charging and runs and rides excellent. This bike has a salvaged title.

    Here is a little gallery of her: http://s57.beta.photobucket.com/user/deprimot/library/motorcycle fabrication?

    Here is a list of the modifications/goodies:

    supertrapp slip on
    brand new tm 33 pumper carb
    raptor petcock
    ims shift lever
    acerbis frame guards
    moose bash plate
    moose bark busters with cycra plastic guards
    magura throttle
    thumper aluminum upper tripple tree
    trailtech vapor computer with aluminum mount
    renthal contour fatbars
    maier rear fender with maier tail light (brand new) and led flush mount signals
    ufo head light with led flush mount signals
    rm 250 front fender
    new seat cover on seat
    new grips
    newer chain and sprocket

    two sets of wheels:

    dual sport set with new tires (dunlop) i will update with tire models

    dirt set with cheng shin nobbies with decent tread
  8. motolab

    motolab Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,868
    Lean misfiring means incomplete combustion. Incomplete combustion caused by a lean mixture can definitely cause sooty deposits.

    Regards,

    Derek
  9. MiteyF

    MiteyF Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 23, 2010
    Oddometer:
    2,101
    Location:
    Michigan... temporarily

    If you're set on selling, good luck with the sale. However, if she starts easily when cold, but is difficult to start when hot, this in no way indicates something is "grounding out". Perhaps you have your terminology wrong, or perhaps you don't quite understand how 12v electrical circuits work, but either way, it sounds like you're chasing a problem that isn't there.
  10. RandyM

    RandyM Less talk, More ride

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    920
    Location:
    Westminster, Ca
    Thanks, that makes sense. Now need to decide whether or not to spend 41 bucks on a new one.
  11. heirhead

    heirhead Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2009
    Oddometer:
    606
    Location:
    On the water in SoCal
    Hello,

    Want to put heated grips on 95. Should I be able to put on with out any bad battery problems.
    How about gps also. Thinking about Oxford hot grips or Symtex. Any better for this bike?

    Thanks,

    Heirhead
  12. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2003
    Oddometer:
    5,029
    Location:
    Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
    I have used a heated jacket for hours at a time on my 93, and that takes more current than grips. Switch out a few lamp bulbs for LED (tail/brake and instrument lights) and you'll free up almost enough to compensate for a set of grip heaters on low.

    I don't know the current Symtex grips but I chose the Oxford Heaterz for my 1100GS a few years ago after considerable research because they had a combination of robust connector wires and a rubber grip feel (rather than slippery hard plastic like some others.) Planning to put heated grips onto my GTS1000 and will go with Oxford again.
  13. jmderyke

    jmderyke Miner

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    Dec 19, 2012
    Oddometer:
    43
    Location:
    State of Jefferson
    As long as you have the street model stator, you should be able to add an item possibly two
  14. saddlsor

    saddlsor my butt hurts

    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2008
    Oddometer:
    334
    Location:
    Indiana
    I have just the dirt guard on mine also. recently I thought I would try something new in regards to lubing the chain on long trips and installed a loobman oiler.

    [​IMG]

    first thing I found out is you end up pressing the oiler to much because it takes more time than you would expect for the oil to get to the chain. this of course makes a mess. when you get used to it not so much but still more than spray lubes so time to do something about that.

    [​IMG]

    I didn't want to spend the money on a new one so looked around the garage and found some scrap aluminum and a little strap metal and made my own. bolted the front to the existing guard and the back to a bolt on the inside of the swingarm. been on there for several hundred miles and seems to be doing the job.

    after using the oiler for a while, I believe it will work out well for the way I ride, time will tell. what I like about it is the ability to oil the chain after coming off gravel or dirt roads without having to break out the can of lube. just reach down and press the button for a couple of seconds and keep going. plus it's one less thing to carry on a long trip as well as keeping the chain lubed a little better over the course of the day when you're alternating between gravel and pavement. just my thoughts.
  15. jmderyke

    jmderyke Miner

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    Dec 19, 2012
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    State of Jefferson
    I like your chain guard better that the original, Im prob gonna do the same.
  16. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Oct 22, 2007
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    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
    Yep, neat idea and I need to whittle down the spare metal in my 5 gallon buckets of "metal too good to throw away" :>

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  17. DualDog

    DualDog Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2007
    Oddometer:
    179
    Location:
    Galesburg, IL
    To the poster asking for tire recommendation. I still have 2 or 3 extra rear tires that will fit the DR350 for sale. $75 shipped to your door. Bridgestone TW302 in 4.10-18 size. These are brand new with stickers still on them. I have due to an error (overorder) when I bought these.
  18. visovm

    visovm Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2009
    Oddometer:
    93
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    I have some carb questions regarding my DR. But before that I will contribute a picture of my DR350 to this thread.

    [​IMG]

    Next post will be pertaining to the carb on this bike. Making sure i am identifying it correctly and a few other questions. :deal
  19. visovm

    visovm Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2009
    Oddometer:
    93
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    Now on to my real reason for posting here: :norton

    I have been working on the bike for a while now and know it pretty well, but I am still a bit confused as to what type of carb this bike has. 1999 Suzuki DR350X ...that sounds easy, but I think its the E33 model (read California only) after looking through the parts fiche and shop manual.

    Here is what the carb looks like:
    [​IMG]
    The number on it "14DB" matched the service manual for the 1998-1999 X model bikes (CA only). So this is the BST33 carb found in the California model X bikes, correct?

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Now for the next question: Assuming I am correct (Im about 95% sure), is this a pumper or CV carb? Its close resemblance to the BST40 leads to to believe its a CV carb.

    A few related questions to the one above:
    Did most of the DR350 dirt model bikes come with pumper carbs? (TM33?)
    Is this a CV carb because CA regulations and not the TM33 carb that the service manual shows for the other dirt model bikes for that year?

    Now for the last question:
    But first a statement, the air box, carb needle and jets, and exhaust are all stock, and I would rather it stay that way.
    Would it be worth while to get a TM33 carb from a non-California bike and swap it into mine? Or would it be better to do similar mods at the BST40 (spacer under needle, adjust idle screw, slide drilled) to get better throttle response?

    Pictures below show the BST33 as it is: all stock (the slide here has two holes in it already, like the BST40 mod, so maybe all I need is a spacer under the needle and an extended idle screw?)

    Any recommendations for the number of turns to start out with on the idle screw? I was thinking two turns out would be a good base point.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I hope this is not too confusing and I am not posting something thats already been discussed. I also hope this is a good place for this post :freaky

    Thanks inmates!
  20. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    Dec 10, 2011
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    1,934
    Location:
    DFW TX
    Looks like you're right....Cal CV carb in NY ?:scratch

    If it runs to suit you, keep it. My "98SE with stock CV carb and exhaust runs great and gets 60+MPG.
    Some people have switched to the pumper and said they have good results but most report worse MPGs. In some cases a lot worse. At least one has switched the pumper for a stock CV set up.....Maybe others will reply with their results.