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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.
This is gone.
I'm guessing the longer guard can be very useful in preventing chain lube from flinging on things above it. I don't notice this problem when I ride dirt, but I do notice some chain lube fling when I ride long pavement distances a few times each year (hundreds of miles on a single hot day). Currently I only have the dirt chain guard, which only fits between the tire and the swing arm. I've been thinking about getting the longer version just for the chain lube issue on longer trips.
Ok i missed that info somehow, lol black soot is going to be from oil or poor engine combustion. Theres only two places you could be leaking oil from your piston rings or valve seals/guides/seat.
Hows your engine compression? This should be your very first test when having problems with running conditions! Andwill save time and money! find a friend with a compression tester, normal compression is anywhere from 135- 180 psi anything below 100psi will NOT allow for good combustion. I dont think it will be close to 180 psi cause normal compression ratio is 9.5:1 in the dr350, If its very high you will have excessive carbon build up.
Anyway if you cant find a friend with a compression tester id pull the header off and get a light and look at the exhaust valves, and if theres a bunch of build up behind the valve and /or its oily looking, this could be causing a poor seal allowing for poor running conditions and could explain the back fire and or the soot.
Hope this will save you some time rather than ripping everything apart
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Happy new year! I finished putting together my 90 350s with a high compression weisco piston, and pumper carb to get the fullest out of the opened up air box and supertrapp exhaust. She has way more power now, but is grounding out somewhere she's not supposed to because I can start her in two kicks after trickle charging the battery, but then she is hard to start after riding. Anyways, i'm out of time and money and she has to go. I would like to sell her whole, but if no one is interested, in all of it, i will begin parting her out.
She starts on the second kick after trickle charging and runs and rides excellent. This bike has a salvaged title.
Here is a little gallery of her: http://s57.beta.photobucket.com/user/deprimot/library/motorcycle fabrication?
Here is a list of the modifications/goodies:
supertrapp slip on
brand new tm 33 pumper carb
ims shift lever
acerbis frame guards
moose bash plate
moose bark busters with cycra plastic guards
thumper aluminum upper tripple tree
trailtech vapor computer with aluminum mount
renthal contour fatbars
maier rear fender with maier tail light (brand new) and led flush mount signals
ufo head light with led flush mount signals
rm 250 front fender
new seat cover on seat
newer chain and sprocket
two sets of wheels:
dual sport set with new tires (dunlop) i will update with tire models
dirt set with cheng shin nobbies with decent tread
Lean misfiring means incomplete combustion. Incomplete combustion caused by a lean mixture can definitely cause sooty deposits.
If you're set on selling, good luck with the sale. However, if she starts easily when cold, but is difficult to start when hot, this in no way indicates something is "grounding out". Perhaps you have your terminology wrong, or perhaps you don't quite understand how 12v electrical circuits work, but either way, it sounds like you're chasing a problem that isn't there.
Thanks, that makes sense. Now need to decide whether or not to spend 41 bucks on a new one.
Want to put heated grips on 95. Should I be able to put on with out any bad battery problems.
How about gps also. Thinking about Oxford hot grips or Symtex. Any better for this bike?
I have used a heated jacket for hours at a time on my 93, and that takes more current than grips. Switch out a few lamp bulbs for LED (tail/brake and instrument lights) and you'll free up almost enough to compensate for a set of grip heaters on low.
I don't know the current Symtex grips but I chose the Oxford Heaterz for my 1100GS a few years ago after considerable research because they had a combination of robust connector wires and a rubber grip feel (rather than slippery hard plastic like some others.) Planning to put heated grips onto my GTS1000 and will go with Oxford again.
As long as you have the street model stator, you should be able to add an item possibly two
I have just the dirt guard on mine also. recently I thought I would try something new in regards to lubing the chain on long trips and installed a loobman oiler.
first thing I found out is you end up pressing the oiler to much because it takes more time than you would expect for the oil to get to the chain. this of course makes a mess. when you get used to it not so much but still more than spray lubes so time to do something about that.
I didn't want to spend the money on a new one so looked around the garage and found some scrap aluminum and a little strap metal and made my own. bolted the front to the existing guard and the back to a bolt on the inside of the swingarm. been on there for several hundred miles and seems to be doing the job.
after using the oiler for a while, I believe it will work out well for the way I ride, time will tell. what I like about it is the ability to oil the chain after coming off gravel or dirt roads without having to break out the can of lube. just reach down and press the button for a couple of seconds and keep going. plus it's one less thing to carry on a long trip as well as keeping the chain lubed a little better over the course of the day when you're alternating between gravel and pavement. just my thoughts.
I like your chain guard better that the original, Im prob gonna do the same.
Yep, neat idea and I need to whittle down the spare metal in my 5 gallon buckets of "metal too good to throw away" :>
To the poster asking for tire recommendation. I still have 2 or 3 extra rear tires that will fit the DR350 for sale. $75 shipped to your door. Bridgestone TW302 in 4.10-18 size. These are brand new with stickers still on them. I have due to an error (overorder) when I bought these.
I have some carb questions regarding my DR. But before that I will contribute a picture of my DR350 to this thread.
Next post will be pertaining to the carb on this bike. Making sure i am identifying it correctly and a few other questions.
Now on to my real reason for posting here:
I have been working on the bike for a while now and know it pretty well, but I am still a bit confused as to what type of carb this bike has. 1999 Suzuki DR350X ...that sounds easy, but I think its the E33 model (read California only) after looking through the parts fiche and shop manual.
Here is what the carb looks like:
The number on it "14DB" matched the service manual for the 1998-1999 X model bikes (CA only). So this is the BST33 carb found in the California model X bikes, correct?
Now for the next question: Assuming I am correct (Im about 95% sure), is this a pumper or CV carb? Its close resemblance to the BST40 leads to to believe its a CV carb.
A few related questions to the one above:
Did most of the DR350 dirt model bikes come with pumper carbs? (TM33?)
Is this a CV carb because CA regulations and not the TM33 carb that the service manual shows for the other dirt model bikes for that year?
Now for the last question:
But first a statement, the air box, carb needle and jets, and exhaust are all stock, and I would rather it stay that way.
Would it be worth while to get a TM33 carb from a non-California bike and swap it into mine? Or would it be better to do similar mods at the BST40 (spacer under needle, adjust idle screw, slide drilled) to get better throttle response?
Pictures below show the BST33 as it is: all stock (the slide here has two holes in it already, like the BST40 mod, so maybe all I need is a spacer under the needle and an extended idle screw?)
Any recommendations for the number of turns to start out with on the idle screw? I was thinking two turns out would be a good base point.
I hope this is not too confusing and I am not posting something thats already been discussed. I also hope this is a good place for this post
Looks like you're right....Cal CV carb in NY ?
If it runs to suit you, keep it. My "98SE with stock CV carb and exhaust runs great and gets 60+MPG.
Some people have switched to the pumper and said they have good results but most report worse MPGs. In some cases a lot worse. At least one has switched the pumper for a stock CV set up.....Maybe others will reply with their results.
Yes, definitely a CV carb. Looks like the CV carb fit to all of the street models (AFAIK). As to any California connection or set up, your guess is as good as mine.
I swapped from a used pumper to a new pumper and was very pleased with the improvement over my worn original pumper.
Then, in an attempt to gain more miles range without carrying extra fuel, I swapped to a used (but in good condition) CV carb. Indeed, my miles range went up - satisfying my goal. I've set my CV carb up as stock for my 1993 model year dirt model (including the "turns out" for the mixture screw). While my diaphragm was not torn, it was extremely difficult to seat properly while getting the black plastic cover back on top. I replaced it and found performance to improve slightly (indicating a tiny leak, perhaps?). At any rate, I remain satisfied enough that I sold both pumper carbs and am living quite happily with my CV carb.
You got yourself a Gas sipping CV right there my friend. If you want 60+ mpg, thats the carb to have. Is for me anyhow! lol i was half tempted to drop 400 bucks and buy the pumper setup a while back...but instead i didnt, just kept cruising my 60+mpg. With my sprocket combo and weight, along with riding rather sensibly i push REALLY close to 80mpg outta mine. its insane. When i first bought and rode thsi bike i though something was wrong. lol but then i started readin on here and suddenly the facts started coming out and i was Tickled pink! lol