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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.
I'm running the webcam 223 grind with the 10.5 wiseco and haven't had any issues with clearance.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20089849&postcount=13644 ....Haven't done it myself yet, but I'm gonna.
thanks for all your help, what a guy !!!
have a question,
we are thinking bout a new rack design for the dr350 and have noticed that on some models they have blinker brackets on the grab bar , is that on most bikes or a rare thing, would make a good landing point for a rack, mike
I'm not mr bender, but i will speak up. Mounting points for signals would be a wise idea. Some dont use the type that mount to bolt holes, but those that do would greatly appreciate it im sure. Ive seen some ppl use the mounting holes for T/S holes, which in my opinion isnt a good idea. most of the time, the T/S mounting tube is Hollow, which is weaker as we all know, than a regular bolt. This leaves room for failure due to either Overweight items, Clipping a tree with the T/S and breaking the tube and then having a loose rack..(no one likes a loose rack...lol...hardy har har) Ive also seen some T/S's come loose, then again..leads to a loose rack. Something that MAY be nice, would be T/S mounting tabs or...possibly, a way to incorporate "guards" for the T/S's..this way when we lay em down, or squeeze em through a tight spot (threading the needle) thats one less thing we need to worry about.
SO in short, will it make a good selling point, To some yes sir it will. To others, maybe not so much. Its all about the Overall strength, and rigidity of the rack. ANd just how much Banging around it'll take! lol Not to mention, the price! in this day and age, price is always a big thing, no matter who ya are!
Hey! It is good to hear from you :>
The dirt models had one rear bar style (made of aluminum) and the street models had another rear bar style (made of steel with turn signal mounts). You won't be able to count on that mount unless you only sell to street model owners. Sorry.
You are right sir, they dont mess around! The Cage kit is awesome, i have a pile of parts ive been saving up and buying that i intend to put on the bike all in one weekend. I managed to find the plastic Front Brake/Rotor Guard i wanted, Now the crash cage, and im still searching for the frame guards by the foot pegs, but THATS a tough one.
Gonna meet up with my buddy who fabricates stuff outta pipe and see if he can duplicate the cage. Ive tried finding the company that made the cage, but its tough...i havent found any good leads. They were made by a company in germany called JT motosports, GmBh. There's some numbers N stuff but i cant make much of them. Them guys over seas got it all! lol
thanks for the sound advice , blinker tabs
on the rack then use real bolts , thanks
No worries, glad to see your still kicking greg , getting some good advice here , great group
I'd say better would be to eliminate the grab rail altogether. Use those mounting points for the rack and have T/S tabs on the rack.
Note that on the street model the center bolt on the grab rail goes through the fender to bolt onto the additional subframe underneath the fender. Presumably bolting the two together provides extra strength.
Speaking of that additional subframe, has anyone had any problems after removing it? I have stock racks on my bikes and have been planning on removing that subframe to save weight.
Check this out for a Suzuki DR350 Engine Guard with Skid Plate.........Pricey..........................
Yep. I can see how it attaches up front to the original mounting locations for the skid plate. But, I wonder how it attaches in back? It does not appear to use the original rear mounting points. I wonder if it mounts using "P" style clamps similar to this skid plate (image on that website is not accurate, but "P" style clamps are used)?
If it does use "P" clamps, then that is a huge disappointment to me. I have the "Ricochet" skid plate and the first thing I did (after fiddling with those stupid "P" clamps for 15 minutes without success), is pay a local welder to weld tabs onto each side so that I could use the original mounting points. IMHO, the original design very much should have taken this route for mounting. Instead, they chose the one-size-fits-all approach.
To continue my rant, anyone who has changed the oil and filter on their DR350 knows that the skid plate must removed or else it will have oil all over it from the filter change. Hence, I could care less about having a hole to access the oil plug. What I really want is a skid plate that is easy to remove and re-mount. I have that now, but it required paying a welder to make it happen.
Can we see your skid plate..............
Sure...it has taken a few heavy beatings and bent back into shape :> :> :>
Full disclaimer, I first learned of adding tabs from either Pablo or Distech, can't remember for sure who I first read/saw that mod.
Looks as it will do the job...........If you were near me, I'd weld it for free..................
I'm thinking of making a skid plate. I'd like it higher to protect the engine and underneath the tank from mud and dirt. Also I'd like to make a front fender mud guard. I'm concerned about blocking to much air flow to the engine which would prevent sufficient cooling.
Here is an option for skid plate material. I haven't made one for the DR350 yet so here's some pics of the one for a KLR. It's really tough stuff and pretty easy to work with, but best of all, it will slide right across rocks instead of digging in.
It is extremely strong, though not pretty from a design perspective. It took more than a little bit of time because the sides of the skid plate did not line up nicely on either side. So, one of the vertical brackets had to be placed on the side of the skid plate, the other vertical bracket on top of the skid plate.
He initially wanted to tie it in with the side pieces for added strength. But we decided to go with the simpler approach due to alignment issues, later ability to "fix" damage, etc.
Thanks for the generous offer to have welded it for me for free. Honestly, I don't mind paying the guy. He is a friend and does this in his spare time and has performed numerous jobs for me (including some very nice fabrication work). I pay him what he asks for and I get to keep coming back to someone I know and trust. Fair enough for me :> :> :>
It has been on for a couple of years now and around 12,000 miles. I did a nice job of denting it in on a big rock this past summer in Eastern Utah as I was riding down some rock steps. When I got back home, I used a pry bar to straighten it back out.
I like the " Wings " on it. I'll probably incorporate engine guards and wings. My problem is that I always get carried away and make things way to complicated for the task at hand. Here in the Northeast we're snowed in so I'll tackle it next week. Right now I'm spending most of my time snowmobiling. All comments for fabrication are welcome. Frank
Nice looking - but a wrap-around skid plate will do the same thing for less money, lighter, and fewer attachment points