DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. OldUKBikerGuy

    OldUKBikerGuy Cultural Attaché

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2012
    Oddometer:
    27
    Location:
    Poole, Dorset, United Kingdom
    Mmm, I noticed that, a while after I bought the bike and then read on here that the 'later 98 -99 forks were the ones to have'.

    Although my bike is technically a 98, it was registered early in January that year, so was obviously built in 97.
    I guess somebody has to use up all the old bits whilst they change over, and I'm never going to ride hard enough to notice the difference anyway.

    Despite expensive replacement Progressive shocks front and back on my H*rley, it still rides like an old truck, so the DR seems like a magic carpet in comparison....!
  2. markk900

    markk900 Been here awhile

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    Oct 13, 2012
    Oddometer:
    503
    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    I know its OT, but had to mention I got my license back in 1976 on my cousin's 72 Pioneer.....it really was a cool bike from an interesting company.
  3. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    Dec 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,953
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    DFW TX
    Yup, when you got all the fiberglasss off it, you could see the serious competion heritage. Rode the Texas State Enduro Circuit on it. At the time I had a small VW shop, and before it was over that thing had a LOT of VW parts on it :evil
  4. PWRCRZR

    PWRCRZR Grumpy Old Bastard

    Joined:
    May 10, 2008
    Oddometer:
    7,717
    Location:
    Mid-Coast Maine
    Mid January rides are rare here in Maine but I had the opportunity to get out for a little tagging today. DR makes a great little winter bike. Roads were quite wet and covered with a lot of road sand and a few patches of ice...thinking I need to set up a little windshield and a heated gear loop for winter rides.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  5. mustangwagz

    mustangwagz Been here awhile

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    Apr 8, 2012
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    Western PA
    holy crap, this is bull..i had to go back 3 pages to find the damn DR thread...wtf guys!
  6. cwc

    cwc Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2005
    Oddometer:
    954
    Location:
    anywhere
    <hr style="color:#575757; background-color:#575757" size="1"> I'm looking for a dead CDI box.

    Since being stranded for a week in Mexico when the HV winding on the stator opened up and having friends have several CDI failures I've been carrying a spare stator and CDI on my trips.

    To save space I started looking at CDI's that make their own HV. I've got a system working on the bench but to do any extensive testing I need the wires and connectors from an OEM CDI for an e-start bike.

    Anybody have a dead one I could use as a connector donor?
  7. OldUKBikerGuy

    OldUKBikerGuy Cultural Attaché

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    Dec 18, 2012
    Oddometer:
    27
    Location:
    Poole, Dorset, United Kingdom
    Yeah, people keep filling it up with irrelevant stuff....er, like this! :D
  8. mustangwagz

    mustangwagz Been here awhile

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    Western PA
    ANd this!! LOL :clap

    atleast the next ppl to get one wont have to search very long. lol
  9. visovm

    visovm Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2009
    Oddometer:
    93
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    To pick up on the discussion on page 943, I developed a slightly different attachment method for the MooseRacing skid plate I picked up through ProCycle.

    I did not like the "P" mounting clamps in the back, and read about others who welded on pieces of aluminum to the rear of the skid plate to attach to the factory mounts. I dont have easy access to someone who knows how to weld aluminum, so I decided a mechanical connection could be no worse than the "P" clamps and would eliminate the bolts sticking out and getting destroyed and subsequently impossible to remove.

    I have a lot of old stock aluminum, and machine hardware so that was not the issue. I used some L shaped aluminum and stainless hardware to attach the brackets to the skid plate in the proper position. This was a free mod for me since I have all the tools and materials, but I would imagine it would not be too expensive to purchase the materials if you dont have a friend who can weld it for you. :evil

    Here is the solution I came up with:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I hope this helps anyone who is considering something like this. When I have a chance to take it out and beat the heck out of it, I will report back if there are any failures. :freaky

    I wish Moose and others would just weld on these tabs to use the factory mounting points. I would be willing to pay a little more for a skid plate that used all four stock mounting points.
  10. Hotmamaandme

    Hotmamaandme Wishing I was riding RTW

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    Jan 10, 2006
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    2,725
    Location:
    Gardnerville NV
    Well done
  11. heirhead

    heirhead Been here awhile

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    Jan 2, 2009
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    587
    Location:
    On the water in SoCal
    Hello,

    Thanks to greg bender and 2bold2getold for there help.
    On the rear brake pedal is there splines inside so you can adjust it up or down?
    Mine with brakes adjusted is 2 inches to low.

    Thanks for your wisdom,

    Heirhead
  12. ADV BUM

    ADV BUM Been here awhile

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    Dec 9, 2009
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    124
    Previous owner installed the vapor computer. He did not install the temp sensor. I was going to hook it up to the spark plug like trail tech says, but I am reading people dont like those temp readings. I like the idea of hooking it up to the banjo bolt like others have done. Does any one know off hand what size loop/sensor I should order to install on the banjo bolt?

    Thank you
  13. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    1,953
    Location:
    DFW TX
    No splines. Looks like there is a stop bolt and lock nut in the frame just in front of the brake pedal pivot used to adjust the brake pedal upper limit. And a couple of lock nuts on the master cylinder rod, at the clevis, to adjust the throw. If your pedal isn't bent or messed with.
  14. heirhead

    heirhead Been here awhile

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    On the water in SoCal
    Hello,

    Thanks,
    will try and adjust that way.

    Heirhead
  15. RuggedExposure

    RuggedExposure Now with more rugged

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2011
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    Location:
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    Just got the o-ring kit from Greg Bender. :thumb

    Looks like an outstanding setup. Will have pics posted when I get a chance.
  16. tntmo

    tntmo Been here awhile

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    Jan 31, 2012
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    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    If you are still having issues, let me know. I have three rear master cylinders in my stash of parts. We can get you going in no time!
  17. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    OUTSTANDING!!!

    Like you, I would have been very willing to pay extra to have the skid plate use all four stock mounting points.

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  18. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    To which banjo bolt are you referring? There are several and I probably know the size or can take a quick measurement in the garage this morning.

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  19. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Glad to hear it :>

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  20. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Location:
    Truckee
    That is a great solution. I had a local welder weld on tabs for me. Cost about $30. Which is not bad but messed with the heat treat. After smacking a couple of rocks near the weld, they have now cracked. If I only thought to bolt it together. :baldy