DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. Hotmamaandme

    Hotmamaandme Wishing I was riding RTW

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,725
    Location:
    Gardnerville NV
  2. Drufiddy

    Drufiddy Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2012
    Oddometer:
    40
    Location:
    Sacramento
    Any little DR riders out there have a front rotor for a 94 SE? I did the Western TAT in August and bent the front a tad. Breaking power is pretty bad. Thanks!
  3. O'Hooligan

    O'Hooligan Ken Dodd's dads dogs dead

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2003
    Oddometer:
    642
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    OK, I need the opinions of the gathered experts on my paranoia! I removed clutch and sidestand switches and wired the connector wires together and the bike ran fine. I ran the bike a few times no problems, But then my CDI unit malfunctioned, consequently the bike won't run. I know its the cdi as I was able to swap out a borrowed one and the spark was good.

    The question is was this just coincidence or did it just decide it was time to quit? Before I drop lots of $$$ on a new cdi, I want to make sure it was not something I did.

    Any suggestions?
  4. VooDooDaddy

    VooDooDaddy Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    163
    Location:
    SW Iowa
    Yes. Many, many of us have removed the 'safety' switches from our bikes. I have had mine removed from just about every Suzuki I have ever owned, including my track-only GSX-R1000, DR350, DR650, and my Ducati track bike, and they have continued to run just as before with no issues what-so-ever.
  5. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,952
    Location:
    DFW TX
    I removed my side stand and clutch switches about 1200 miles ago. No problems so far.
  6. heirhead

    heirhead Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 2, 2009
    Oddometer:
    587
    Location:
    On the water in SoCal
    tntmo
    Thanks for offer.
    Have adjusted every which way, getting close, still pedal is to low. Nut at end of push rod.
    Might just weld new pedal on top as it is to small anyway.
    Might just have a funky right foot!
    Thanks again,

    Heirhead
  7. kawi380

    kawi380 Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 21, 2009
    Oddometer:
    34
    Location:
    AZ
    I have an extra you can have. It was off of my 95 SE that I am parting out. PM me and we can work something out.
  8. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,684
    Location:
    Truckee
    Have you checked the clutch safety again. Make sure the wires are connected and did not pull them selves free of each other. The clutch safety is so easy to bypass but there is not much slack in the two yellow wires.

    I did this bypass on a friends bike. He crashed his DR and it wouldn't start. Checked everything. Thought about the trouble shootting philosophy of "what was the last thing you modified/worked on". So goes back under the headlight cowl and sure enough the clutch saefty wire connection was pulled apart. He pulled out a few extra cm of length of wire from the harness/loom, and has been fine ever since.

  9. Chicken Helmet

    Chicken Helmet I'm A Stumperâ„¢

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2010
    Oddometer:
    5,053
    Location:
    Jacksonville Fl
    Anyone need some parts? Here's a list of what I have. All from a 94 DR unless noted:

    94 DR350
    headlight $25
    headlight brkt $15
    white headlight surround $10
    front forks (assume they need seals) $50
    front rim (no tire) $100
    front caliper $25
    speedo cable $10

    99 RM250 For Parts
    front forks with triple clamps $150
    front caliper $25
    Excel Frt Wheel with slight bend
    on one side. doesn't affect performance
    and not cracked. $75

    Other RM parts available just ask. Also parting my 88 KLR, most body parts and seat already gone. PM with needs or questions on any of this stuff. Pics available upon request.

    P.S. Not parting the DR350, just the other two.
  10. brianjonesphoto

    brianjonesphoto Single Track Noob

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,578
    Location:
    The Brier Patch, WA
  11. Stretch67

    Stretch67 Mad Scientist

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,236
    Location:
    Bent, But Not Broken
    Dang. Somebody's going to get a tremendous deal on one hell of a bike.
  12. Cool_Hand_Luke

    Cool_Hand_Luke n00b

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2013
    Oddometer:
    9
    Location:
    Bay Area CA
    Hey guys I got a question for ya'll...I just got my first bike (a '99 DR350se) a few months ago and want to get some new handlebars that will fit me better. I am 6'3" and so now when I stand up with the stock bars I am really hunched over, which is no bueno. I am about to make an order to rockymountainatvmc and was looking at the Tusk handlebars b/c I am already spending a lot on other stuff and saw that they make good bars for the price. The bend options they offer are; ATV Sport, CR High, CR Mid, KX High, Mini High, Raptor, and YZ High. Any suggestions? I did some research and saw that people like any of the highs or even the ATV bend...any help would be greatly appreciated, I am all ears! :ear

    Thanks!

    Luke
  13. tntmo

    tntmo Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2012
    Oddometer:
    543
    Location:
    San Diego, CA
    The problem with going to a tall bar like the ATV bend is that you may end up needing to run custom cables and brake line. Before you order too tall of a bar, try to see how much slack is available on all the wiring, control cables and brake line.

  14. ADV BUM

    ADV BUM Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    124
    I was just playing with my new to me DR350 tonight. I am 6'5 and added 3.5 inch Rox risers tonight. I like the pivoting action as it lets me adjust the crowded feel as well. It seemed like it took the cables to the limit. The PO had some fat bars and with some adjustments with the controls all will be fine.

    On my xr650l I run the 3.5 risers and quad standard bend bars. This setup is perfect for me as I can stand straight up when riding across the desert sand. I did have to get custom cables. Cables get expensive.

    I will be doing the same thing as you. I am trying the Rox risers and if not enought I will go with the quad bars as well and be forced into the custom cables.

    Getting a proper riding position makes a world of difference. Good luck.


    Side note- My DR has RM front end so I dont know if that makes it better or worse for available cable length
  15. MadChap

    MadChap Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 25, 2010
    Oddometer:
    482
    Location:
    Out of Prison
    A new extended clutch cable from Motion Pro set me back $50. Ouch.
  16. Cool_Hand_Luke

    Cool_Hand_Luke n00b

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2013
    Oddometer:
    9
    Location:
    Bay Area CA
    Right on....I was thinking about trying some risers out if the new bars aren't enough (I just needed a new handlebar b/c the PO welded some metal inside the ends which is blocking me from adding hand guards...why he did it I do not know). I decided to order the KX High bend to play it safe so hopefully I won't need to get new cables.
  17. Cool_Hand_Luke

    Cool_Hand_Luke n00b

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2013
    Oddometer:
    9
    Location:
    Bay Area CA
    I think I should be ok with the KX High Bend...I will keep my fingers crossed in hope I don't need to get custom cables! Thanks for the advice!

  18. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2003
    Oddometer:
    5,061
    Location:
    Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
    Probably bar-end weights intended to damp vibration. You might be able to drill and tap for the hand guard attachment bolts.
  19. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,255
    Location:
    Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
    Hi Luke,

    I use these tusk bars and they have held up very well to me and my falls:
    http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/dr350.htm#gtb_handlebars_-_tusk_t-10_aluminum-_cr_mid_bend

    I'm 6'3" as well and don't enjoy the hunched over position. With stock length cables, etc I was able to fit these risers (7/8" bar, 30mm height). I do not believe I could go any taller without cable issues.
    http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/53/218/1316/-/25849/Tusk-Handlebar-Riser-Kit/handlebar+risers

    The risers were a nice improvement, though I'm still more hunched over than I'd like. I just bend my knees a bit more and pretend I'm enjoying the leg muscle work out :> :> :>

    I hope this helps!

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  20. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,952
    Location:
    DFW TX
    You can take a longer generic cable and carefully cut the housing shorter (dremel tool) to get the correct length of the stranded part. There's a small MC shop here that will make cables any size you want. He used to charge $35, but it's been a while, may be more now. Here's more, how to, cable info.... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=17566860&postcount=1005