DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. RuggedExposure

    RuggedExposure Now with more rugged

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    Ya, this was my first thought too. I cleaned the filter and re-oiled it to no avail.


    Possibly the float is too high? Anyone have pics of the metal tab on the float and where its supposed to be set at?
  2. tntmo

    tntmo Been here awhile

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    I think I have one in my spares.
  3. andrius

    andrius n00b

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    Sorry, don't know at what heigth float is supposed to be. There should be two ways to check it:
    1. With tube connected to the lowest part of carburator (when on bike);
    2. with calliper (roller) when carb is dismantled.

    I could attach pictures from my manual, but I don't have imageshack or similar account to place pictures at the moment...

    As for example You can check this online manual:
    http://er5.atw.hu/letoltesek/Kawasaki_ER5_C5_2004_Service_Manual_ENG.pdf
    Pages are: 2-10, 2-11 and 2-12

    When check Yours DR manual for info.

    I hope this info is clear enough :)
  4. OldUKBikerGuy

    OldUKBikerGuy Cultural Attaché

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    Great 'snow' pictures, BobOneLeg; I'm SO jealous!

    Not very far away, here on the South Coast, we just got slushy crap.
    (Enough excuse to close the schools though...)

    Good to see you out having some fun......!
  5. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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  6. ADV BUM

    ADV BUM Been here awhile

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    Dec 9, 2009
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    124
    Looking for DR350 rear wheel compatibility

    DR250 - Direct swap I believe

    Drz400?

    Rm125/250?
  7. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    If it was a high mileage BST33 equipped model, it could have easily been running rich because of a worn out emulsion tube (which is caused by a worn out slide guide). A worn out emulsion tube affects the same rpm range as float height does, and increasing the float height can to a limited extent be used to compensate for emulsion tube wear.

    Regards,

    Derek
  8. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    It would have to be too low. Increasing leans the mixture and decreasing richens. I would not set it to other than stock specification unless I knew that the mixture needed to be changed at low rpm at all openings, and had a good way to evaluate the change (such as testing on a 5-gas EGA equipped brake dyno).


    Regards,

    Derek
  9. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    That checks the fuel level.
    Using a float height setting tool will be more accurate and less time consuming.

    Regards,

    Derek
  10. Hotmamaandme

    Hotmamaandme Wishing I was riding RTW

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  11. boboneleg

    boboneleg we can rebuild him.

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  12. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    The bike in the pic belongs to one of your UK brothers. Check back on the bottom of pg 945, post 14173, for the beginning.
  13. pnw

    pnw Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the reply. I found a couple on-line sellers for the cage, wing bolt and snorkel tube but happened by a dealership today and ordered them there, same price which was a lot for a peice of plastic, rubber hose and a little wing bolt.
  14. Lasherman

    Lasherman Ah Sh!t!

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    Exactly how important is the brace on the frame directly in front of the engine? This is a support that is directly under the steering stem between the top of the frame and the neck going down. The reason I have a small amount of oil leaking from behind this support. I have to cut it off.....find the leak and fix the leak. Anybody else have leaks from this area?
  15. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    I guess you're talking about the sheet metal gusset behind the oil reservoir, that connects the top tube and the down tube. If you remove it for a repair, I think it would be pretty simple to replace it with something simple that would give similar support. Lots of ways to strenghten that junction. Or be carefull removing it and use it back. Suzuki thought it was necessary.
  16. Lasherman

    Lasherman Ah Sh!t!

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    Yeah.....kinda my thoughts. I have a small oil leak coming out of the bottom of the gusset so I know I must habe a leak on the frame under the gusset. Problem is that is blows back in the engine.and my boot and maks.a.mess. I did a 100 mile ride and oil was on my boot and side of bike, but not noticeable loss when oil is checked. Just very unnerving.
  17. hobes

    hobes Adventurer

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    I'm using a 350 rear wheel in my DRZ, so it should work the other way (you need a DRZ wheel with disc because DRZ got 6 bolt mounting and DR 4 bolt, so you cant't change the disc)
  18. dav_dman

    dav_dman Been here awhile

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    with stock bar i have 2" riser no cable issue. Not sure how high you could go, dont recall.
  19. dav_dman

    dav_dman Been here awhile

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    i use a twin air on my modded airbox setup. A little pricey-er than uni but i like em.
  20. dav_dman

    dav_dman Been here awhile

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    I'd go with new needle/seat assy. They are cheap and that one is worn. I think your needle either is not sliding well or your metal tab is not adjusted to drop the needle as the bowl fills, at the correct level. Use crc or some non rubber hurting lube spray on the needle seat when you install.

    this is a long thread and you mightve already done this and i didnt read it...sorry if so.

    my troubleshooting procedure is always compression-fuel delivery-electrical , in that order. Comp good, fuel delivery suspect....get that bulletproof before you go on to check coils etc after fuel delivery is a certain non-issue.

    just an opinion, an everybody has one :)

    good luck, bro.

    if probs continue i will have a spare carb in a couple weeks you can try if you want, just pm me. (stock se, not a pumper).