DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. markk900

    markk900 Been here awhile

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    That's exactly what my O ring looked like when I had similar problems. If its that bad check the other one that holds the float cage in place - if its loose you may be getting a different float height than you think you are setting. Also +1 on the needle seat being worn, however if it was leaking you'd be getting gas out the overflow tube regularly and you didn't mention that as a problem.
  2. motolab

    motolab Long timer

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    Besides getting dirty, there's not much that can go wrong with the needle seat. Cleaning it ultrasonically or with carb cleaner should be all that is required (if that). Obviously the o-ring needs to be replaced, but the needle is not visible in the photo. The tip of the needle should be inspected under magnification. If a witness line is evident where it has been contacting the seat, if the tip is beginning to separate from the body of the needle, or if the plunger spring is sacked out, the needle should be replaced.

    Regards,

    Derek
  3. RuggedExposure

    RuggedExposure Now with more rugged

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    O-ring was replaced, everything was cleaned with citric acid overnight. the tip appears to be in great shape.
    Also, with my clear fuel lines I can see with an empty carb the fuel flows in fine then comes to a sudden stop (when the float reaches level) and it doesn't appear that anymore creeps in.

    I just put the new coil on and it actually runs a little better. Maybe the new 'racing' coil provides a little more spark and the plug is the problem? I should be able to replace the plug by tomorrow and see.
    I can actually ride the bike enough to pop some wheelies now... whereas before it would barely make it across the dirt lot.
  4. RuggedExposure

    RuggedExposure Now with more rugged

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  5. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    You bought a new coil before you had swapped the plug? Seems arse-about-face to me.

    Good luck with the ongoing improvements. I'm sure you'll have it running sweetly soon enough.
  6. Zane Neher

    Zane Neher Been here awhile

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    Can anyone ID this carb? No model number or serial. The build up just mentions it was a dirt carb instead of the stock carb that came on the 91 dr250.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  7. slowsuki1

    slowsuki1 Been here awhile

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    mikuni tm31 or 33mm, is what it looks like,if it came off a 250, it is 31mm, 350 33mm.
  8. RuggedExposure

    RuggedExposure Now with more rugged

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    Looks like a tm33
  9. RuggedExposure

    RuggedExposure Now with more rugged

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    Yeah... That's how I do things.
  10. Chiknmunky

    Chiknmunky Been here awhile

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    Just a bit of info on some bar risers that worked out for me because I had the stuff laying around.I have two LT80 quads that I bought for parts to fix up another.I was able to use two of the bar mounts and the long bolts from the quads handlebars to raise my DR bars up 3/4 of an inch which is not a lot but in my case,any rise was a huge improvement.
  11. mwilliamshs

    mwilliamshs Been here awhile

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    Oddometer:
    250
    Location:
    Arkansas
    Hey guys. Noob here planning a father&son TAT ride and considering a 93 dr250 (s? se? it's the dual sport version) and 99 dr350sex (dual sport version) as the bikes to do it on. I have read at least half this thread but haven't been able to answer my questions. I have no idea what the letter codes for the 250 should be, I think it would be an S or SE and I think the 350 is an SE, never seen the X (maybe it's a joke? SEX) but again, I'm a noob. My question is: what consumables interchange? as in brake pads, oil and air filters, clutch and throttle cables, brake and clutch levers, seats, fuel tanks and petcocks, carb kits, etc. Both bikes need at best some TLC and at worst rebuilds of everything but the engines/transmissions. I plan to grease suspension and wheel bearings, replace appropriate seals, lube or replace cables (and carry spares), replace and carry spare levers, change any vacuum petcocks I find (don't own the bikes yet, planning 2 retrieval trips this weekend), and probably make at least 1 gas tank swap, might buy a Corbin seat from the flea market and want to know if it'll fit both bikes or just one. Thanks a TON for your help! hope i join the DR ranks soon!
  12. Chiknmunky

    Chiknmunky Been here awhile

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    The X in sex is year code. I don't have any experience with the 250,but it's my understanding that it's the same bike just a different motor basically.
  13. Anonawesome

    Anonawesome Scenic Rider

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    Howdy, I am looking for a kickstart lever for my '90 dr350s. More specifically a shortened one. Last summer at a KTM demo ride, as a KTM employee was trying to tell me not to give my DR any gas while I was starting it :lol2 (like it was sum newfangled fuel injected bike), he made a point that newer bikes have shorter kickstart levers for less torque, faster rotation. Makes sense. My DR isn't too hard to turn over, unless it's in that one spot in the rotation, so I want to look into some possibilities. Anyway, any help would be appreciated, like if newer RMZ levers will fit, or even just the size of the splines. Thanks!
  14. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    He's got the pumper carb, so no float cage like on the CV carb. I'm working to source the smaller O-ring for the other side of the float cage on the CV carb as an addition to my O-ring kit, but I don't have one yet.

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  15. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Sounds like a great plan to me and the DR is more than adequate for the TAT (at least the section I've been on through New Mexico, Colorado, and Utah). I'd pull both swing arms off for a thorough cleaning/inspection/lubrication. If they've been well cared for (greased regularly), you'll probably only need to replace the lower shock bushing/bolt that is not greased. As for wheel bearings, I'd replace them all. Replacement kits from All Balls Racing are of good quality and include all of the bearings and seals (pretty inexpensive, too). High capacity gas tanks (4 gallons) would be a great addition for the TAT.

    I'm looking forward to trips like that with my children when they get old enough :>

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  16. jmderyke

    jmderyke Miner

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    anyone the differences between the brake lines on the 90-94 dr350 and the dr350s bikes? They have different oem part numbers, my front line is shot and was looking at aftermarket lines. I imagine maybe the length is a little different with the same banjo connections?
  17. ADV BUM

    ADV BUM Been here awhile

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    Does anyone know where I could find some? Would like to see price for store bought vs me making them.

    THanks
  18. mwilliamshs

    mwilliamshs Been here awhile

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    Oddometer:
    250
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    Arkansas
    Appreciate the input!

    My largest areas of concern at the moment are charging systems. I know the bikes OEM part numbers differ but I wonder if one might fit the other in an emergency or as an upgrade?

    I've spent several hours on parts sites comparing part numbers and here is a short list of what I've found so far:

    FITS BOTH
    oil filter: EMGO: 301701
    Turn signal lens, amber: k&s 21534
    clutch spring set: ebc: 382014
    front sprockets interchange
    clutch kit:ebc:384071

    exhaust (from headpipe back anyway...)same
    skid plate same
    foot pegs same
    push/pull throttle cables: motion pro: 040144 fits both
    shifters interchange
    rear disc guard fits both moose shark fin
    air filters interchange
    front brake pins interchange
    front tires interchange
    rear tires interchange
    fork seals interchange
    frame covers interchange
    front fenders interchange
    rear fenders interchange
    rear axles interchange
    both sides chain adjuster interchange
    front caps interchange
    front protector tubes interchange
    front spoke sets interchange
    front rims interchange
    front innertubes interchange

    Doesn't Fit Both
    speedo drive differ
    starters differ
    front brake rotors different
    rear hub different
    front master cylinders differ
    rear wheel bearings differ
    clutch cables differ
    front wheel bearings differ
    shock bearings differ
    rear rotors differ
    front hub differ
    front axles differ

    Definitely more work to do but this list is more complete than I'd expected it would be by now. Seems most engine parts differ which was surprising. I'd been told they were the same except for the top-end. Also the clutch cables being different was a shocker and I think it might be as simple as one being about an inch-and-a-half longer than the other. If that proves to be true I'll just pack the longer one as the spare for the trip probably. Are the TW cables that much better? Seem to be about double $ most places. One of the bikes has a larger Acerbis tank installed but I'll most likely install the yamaha raptor petcocks in both bikes. Vacuum petcocks have never made sense to me and I've only known of a couple failures personally but I have no intention of fighting that battle in the middle of nowhere.
  19. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    Guess you have concidered using two 350s, if the boy can handle it. Might need lowering. Don't think there's a lot of difference in size and weight. Power is a little different. 250 makes power at higher rpms, 350 probably has more grunt.
  20. RuggedExposure

    RuggedExposure Now with more rugged

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    Alright, put the new plug in. Bike ran great for a few minutes with only slight sputtering.

    I decided to take a look at the air/fuel mixture screw to see if possibly it was moved or needed adjustment. I turned it one full turn counterclockwise and the bike began running worse. I then set it back to where it was originally then turned it in one full turn and that was the most it would go in. The bike's behavior was the same: sputtering and popping out of the tailpipe.

    I decided to check the new plug, it looked like it was on its way to getting fouled.

    I then pulled the carb off and saw that there was fuel in the intake manifold.

    The float valve is sealing fine. I can't even blow air into the tube with the float raised.

    I then bent the tab on the float just a little to lower the level of fuel in the bowl and put the bike back together.

    It is back to running like pure shit. I am ready to unload a full magazine into it and forget about this POS Suzuki.