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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.
Hooking the brother UP!!
I hope to put an oil cooler into my DR350-SEX. It is not the OEM part listed as optional in the DR350 parts fiche. Will this do?
In the fiche diagram below where do I connect the two hoses? On my bike I see an oil hose similar to the pink hose but it does not have the in/out connector(circled red). Can I connect to either A or B?
Also I do not have the blue hose but I can get one made. Question is where do I connect it to on the engine? Someone has a picture? Thanks in advance.
has some great pics and info on his thread here
also check out his first page for links to specific mods
I would strongly recomend that you install valves and a bypass line when you do your oil cooler installation. A punctured oil cooler out in the middle of nowhere can REALLY suck. Having a way to bypass it might save your bacon some time, and it's easy to do while you are doing the initial installation.
The OEM cooler uses the pink hose. It "T"s off the main oil line. I think it only allows some of the oil to pass through the oil cooler. This is standard with other OEM oil coolers. Not sure exactly what the purpose is. Maybe a thermostat bypass so as not to over cool the engine.
Those that install an aftermarket coolers divert 100% of the oil. I beleive they cut the one of the OEM oil hose, and in essence stick the cooler inline.
Throttle is tough but without return cable, snaps right back.
Do you need it?
This pictures makes it look like you have a kink in you fuel line. I'd say forget about the right side loob and jsut plumb in the left side of the tank. I guess this will be moot when you return to the stock tank.
RuggedExposure: Hmmm....watched your video, read a bunch of your posts and replies from other guys...something simple is plaguing your bike... I got something to suggest.. this is from experience with a machine that would do just about the same thing.. Totally differnt machine, but very very VERY similar...
What kinda hand controls do you have? Does it have a "slide" switch for "Run" and "stop"? or does it have a push button stop switch? Reason i ask...i had an ATV that would do this exact thing..turned out that the damn Slide switch for RUn and STOP had just enough slop in it that it would jiggle around and cut out, leaving me stranded half ways up over hill climbs or usually in the WORST situation that it possibly could..
The video makes me think its electrical...Its hit and miss, randomly missing violently.. Typically, Violent misses like that are form electrical issues. Loose Connection somewhere maybe? I think a jiggle test is in order for you wiring.. This was the only way ive ever found 2 electrical issues. i had an issue with a fuel injected machine that had a bad connection at one of the relays that caused it to Backfire, Load up and foul plugs, fall on its face, etc etc.
See if any of this helps ya..it may, but it may not. Cant wait till ya get this ole girl fixed!!
Mine had arcing from the stator loom to the frame. It was impossible to track down until it shocked the crap out of me while I was checking something else. A little electrical tape fixed it right up. Bike runs great now.
I wondered about this too. I have a push button kill switch. I did an extensive wiggle test around the switch, cdi, regulator and stator loom. I have not checked the internals of the kill switch to see if something is grounding though.
It is possible something is rubbing on the frame or frayed somewhere i guess. Gives me something else to investigate.
There is a kill switch in the wring I sent your way also. Swap everything, or swap one item at a time.
Hello guys, Current 1996 DR 350SE Rider here and I love this bike. My first dirt bike in over 15 years. Was out of the riding biz for so long because I joined the Army, and finally decided after second deployment life is too short and bought my mistress(The bike)
I have a question. I have been spending more time off the road than on, finding that I love dirt and speed and occassionally a little air when I hit things just right. Everyone says my DR is not meant to be ridden like a trail bike, or jumped, or meant to handle and corner well going fast in a harsh trail environment.
I have been looking at buying an actual trail bike. I found a 2005 DRZ 250 but I have read a few reviews, and no matter how much I stare at it, It seems to look like my DR, minus the lights and mirrors.
My question is, is the DRZ a better bike for handling in the trails, single track and sandy pits, or is it basically going to be like riding my DR? If it is basically the same thing, then I might as well hold out for a different brand of trail bike, thought I was hoping to be a Suzuki rider.
Any input from people who have been doing this alot longer than me would be very much appreciated.
Who are you Columbo?
Its only 10:00 pm here and I am taking the carb off again. Shimming and jetting. I know piece of cake, right. Love to tinker in the garage, no shop, just garage, but with something I can hit with a hammer or weld. Little jets, washers, needles, YUCK!
Did they put the air box in the air and build everything around it? Don't know how you put up with that thing RuggedExposure? I don't own a gun but I do live very close to a Harbor and that thing would be swimming with the fishes a long time ago!
I can hear that Husky, can you? Come and get me, Come and get me, COME AND GET ME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I can't say I've been riding "a lot longer" as I hadn't ridden since college (read 1980's). In 2004, I bought a Yamaha TW200 (after researching bikes for about 6 months) and ended up putting 10,000 miles on it before I found I needed a different bike. I again did a ton of research and it came down to the only bike I wanted was a DR350SE. I bought it in 2010 and have added about 8,000 miles to it. Spring 2011 I knew I needed something more road worthy and added a V-Strom 650 to the DR. Things happened and I've only put about 4,000 miles on that so far.
I get the "different bike itch" from time to time. I also think about a more tight trail worthy bike. Light and flickable. Something with some real punch when you hit the throttle and a suspension that can really absorb riding at speed. I'm always on a tight budget so Orange is out. In my research I've come upon lots of feedback that really makes me want to ride a KDX200. Cheap to purchase used, the snap of a 2-stroke. Yet everything I read tells me it still has low end torque and a much smoother powerband than any other 2-smoke. Decent suspension and I see them selling all the time in the Northwest for 1,000-1,500 bucks. I even saw one that someone had gotten plated in WA.
However, for me, I would get killed if I brought another bike home (the TW is long gone) and I don't want to part with either of my bikes. Also I don't want to trailer my bikes to ride them, that makes a short afternoon "quickie" into a much longer ordeal.
I think the answer for me will be to do some suspension work in the DR, add a 385 kit and have Jesse modify the muffler. I'd go pumper carb but I ride long distances through the desert and fuel range is a real issue. To me that's much cheaper than adding another bike and I really love my DR.
Certainly not an expert, but that's my $ .02.
Would love to have those!
Sent from my JY-G3 using Tapatalk 2
Thanks, Greg! I finally went and inspected the "L" shaped piece.I pulled the one from my other bike to verify that it was bent. It was bent... not sure how that happened but it was causing my problem getting past 2nd gear.
I'm thrilled to have one of my bikes almost back up and running.
I reassembled the clutch and put everything back together. Of course, I had a part left over and I cannot figure out where it goes. It might not even be from this bike but it was with all the other pieces I took off this one. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to start the bike until I figure out what this is (or convince myself it's not necessary).
Glad you found the source of the problem (that "L" bracket is easily bent). Sorry, I don't recognize that pin with the oval-esque head shape and the yellow cad? plating.
From what I gather, the DRZ is only a little lighter (maybe 10lbs) and the motor is significantly less torquey. So I'd actually assume it wouldn't even be as good as your DR.....(not that the DRZ is a bad bike or anything).
Other than weight, I find the DR excellent off road. Simple suspension mods and especially tuning the suspension to your riding style and weight make a world of difference. Motor is amazing.....its just heavy.
If you truly want a trail bike I can say from experience the WR250 Yamaha is a joy to ride off road. Requires more maintenance than the DR, and is in no way suitable for even short road rides, but for pure trail riding its amazing. I also have a little bit of riding on a KTM 450 off road - that was too much for my skill level (but FUN!).
This is actually the easiest bike I have worked on it a while. Compared to my '98 KTM 620 or '03 TTR250, this thing is a breeze. Even with the Acerbis tank on, I can have the carb off in just over 2 minutes without removing any body panels.
When I bought it in sept I stripped it down to pretty much the frame and motor in a few hours, painted everything, and reassembled it the next morning: The NM Dirt Bike
Everything will be swapped one at a time so I can be certain what the culprit is.
I've had a few bikes since my first in"68, and no one bike that I've found will do it all. All the DS bikes are some amount of compromise. The DR350 is about as close as I could find to fit my needs for a DS bike. The problem with a lot of models is the transmission gear ratios. Most don't have a low enough 1st gear to do the nasty, rocky, pick your way through, slow stuff, and then a high enough top gear to run 65mph on the road, with out spinning the motor to much. The 3 best I've found are DR650, DR350 and Husky TE610. The KLX300 is a fun little bike with a lot of torque, really light, great suspension and rides a lot like the DR350, close ratio trans that tops out about 50mph. Geared mine up as far as I could and did the Continental Divide Ride and most of the Trans America Trail on it. Tried the KLX450 but it is almost uncontrolable in the rock gardens and rocky, tight, jeep trails, and does not have a DS usuable trans. The DRZ has the same trans problem, although If spinning the motor on the hwy doesn't bother you, they work ok. Thought about the WR250R and other FI bikes, but after a lot of research, I decided I didn't want to spend the $1000+ for power commanders and lap top software to get the air fuel mapping to work. Not that you can't figure that stuff out, it's just not that hard to jet a carb. And I've never had a carb screw up enough, that I couldn't fix it, and leave me stranded. If that FI screws up on you, you're walking.