DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    I've had a few bikes since my first in"68, and no one bike that I've found will do it all. All the DS bikes are some amount of compromise. The DR350 is about as close as I could find to fit my needs for a DS bike. The problem with a lot of models is the transmission gear ratios. Most don't have a low enough 1st gear to do the nasty, rocky, pick your way through, slow stuff, and then a high enough top gear to run 65mph on the road, with out spinning the motor to much. The 3 best I've found are DR650, DR350 and Husky TE610. The KLX300 is a fun little bike with a lot of torque, really light, great suspension and rides a lot like the DR350, close ratio trans that tops out about 50mph. Geared mine up as far as I could and did the Continental Divide Ride and most of the Trans America Trail on it. Tried the KLX450 but it is almost uncontrolable in the rock gardens and rocky, tight, jeep trails, and does not have a DS usuable trans. The DRZ has the same trans problem, although If spinning the motor on the hwy doesn't bother you, they work ok. Thought about the WR250R and other FI bikes, but after a lot of research, I decided I didn't want to spend the $1000+ for power commanders and lap top software to get the air fuel mapping to work. Not that you can't figure that stuff out, it's just not that hard to jet a carb. And I've never had a carb screw up enough, that I couldn't fix it, and leave me stranded. If that FI screws up on you, you're walking.
  2. BigD_83

    BigD_83 Adventurer

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    That is a lock pin to something, and looks pretty large, so it shouldn't be an internal part. Looks familiar, and similar to Part #8 in this diagram of a footpeg, but the base looks to be the wrong shape...

    http://www.2wheelpros.com/oem-parts/1994-suzuki-dr350se-footrest-assembly.html
  3. dav_dman

    dav_dman Been here awhile

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    i made the mistake of disconnecting the airhose from the airbox to help get the carb out once.

    Once.

    Never touching that damn connection again.
  4. Ghostyman

    Ghostyman Been here awhile

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    Good call. It's not that, and it's not the lock pin for the rear braker lever to the master cylinder. It is the same dimensions as the lock pin for the rear brake but has a thicker base (and the base is shaped a bit different, as you noted). It also doesn't have any visible wear marks on it so it never got moved much.
  5. Spad

    Spad Been here awhile

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    I just had my clutch (well, the whole engine) apart on my 99SE and that part doesn't look like anything I came across. I didn't take off my footrests, but it does look like some kid of pivot pin that would get cottered. As for the clutch and engine, I spend a LOT of time looking at parts and part diagrams.

    Now I just need a bit warmer weather to finish putting the bike back together and see if it runs and/or I fixed what was broke. If I find a part like yours on the workbench when I'm done, I'll let you know.

    - Spad
  6. jplum1556

    jplum1556 Been here awhile

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    I've had the clutch torn apart numerous times and that piece does not look familiar so i doubt it's an internal piece for the engine. The only part on the bike I've come across that looks like that is the lock pin for the brake lever but you already ruled that out.
  7. tntmo

    tntmo Been here awhile

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    I've taken apart at least a dozen DR350's and don't remember seeing a pin like that.
  8. Chiknmunky

    Chiknmunky Adventurer

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    That pin looks to me like it's from a bike with a brake drum. The one that holds the brake arm.
  9. Ghostyman

    Ghostyman Been here awhile

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    I think you are my hero. :clap

    I've got a 1973 Honda XL100S in the garage and recently played around with the front drum brake while drunk. Hmmmm... :freaky
  10. heirhead

    heirhead Been here awhile

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    Last night I told you how tough it was take carb, air box ect off and shim carb put it back together.
    Well today put on all of my gear as it was raining and rode to Oceanside and San Onofre Surf beach.
    It was beautiful as lots of surfers out and raining on a sandy trail, had to walk down as gate was closed.
    Felt like Patrick Swayze in Point Break. Bike ran perfect and I was dry. Came home, let bike cool and wanted to check plug. Taking plug out it got kind tight and I put a little more pressure on it. SNAPPED IT OFF !!!!!!!!

    Worlds worst mechanic for sure, NOW WHAT????????????????

    Heirhead
  11. RuggedExposure

    RuggedExposure Now with more rugged

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    By 'snapped it off' do you mean 'snapped it off in the block and I'm looking for a new bike'?
  12. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    Did you snap off the metal hex part of the plug or just the porcelain?

    Either the plug went in cross-threaded or (more likely) has some carbon on the bit that protrudes into the cylinder and this bound up the threads coming out. If you only snapped off the porcelain, you might be able to screw the plug partly back in, dislodge the carbon and then get it out easily. If this doesn't work, or you broke off the metal hex part, your next step should be to remove the cylinder head and take it to a professional. There are tools that might get it out without taking the head off but if you truly are an inexperienced or poor mechanic, there's a good chance you will do more damage - and then you'll end up taking it to someone else but the bill will be larger.
  13. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    Can you post some pics ? Maybe someone has some ideas.
  14. heirhead

    heirhead Been here awhile

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    Hello,
    Thanks much for your replies.
    Come on Columbo, must be a special drill or something. Selling dr650 and xt225 as I just bought 350 as the just right,Mama Bear bike. Really, just right for me.
    Snapped it right off at the head!! Hex still in socket. Only thing I do worse than wrench on bikes is anything related to a computer. I know, very sad. A smart phone to me is one that does't ring.
    As far as pics, just imagine the spark plug hole welded over as that is what it looks like. Now that I can do.
    To add insult to stupidity, a few days ago I rode 85 miles after I switched main jets. Went on some dirt and had a beer at Hells Kitchen, a great bar, top of Ortega Hwy. I had just tried out my new Airhawk I bought on ADV when a guy I was talking to said how his seat on his Road King was not comfy. Went out to my bike and got my Airhawk out of my luggage for him to sit on. He passed it to his friend and the 3 of us got up and rode down the hill. Airhawk still on his seat at the bar. Just flew away as nobody has seen it since.

    The don't call me Heirhead for nuttin!!!
    Those Adderall don't work for shit.

    Heirhead
  15. RuggedExposure

    RuggedExposure Now with more rugged

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    If you are experienced with TIG, You could try welding a small stud or bolt to what is left of the spark plug (granted there is enough room to get your filler and cup in there. Probably cut back on the gas coming out of the nozzle since it is a small environment. If you are lucky you can still unscrew that out of there.

    But like mentioned before by slartidbartfast, its probably cross threaded so you're going to have to do something about the threads anyways which may mean removing the cylinder head.

    Don't feel bad. My bike isn't running either, and at least you know what is wrong with yours. Post pics if possible and best of luck.
  16. heirhead

    heirhead Been here awhile

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    OFF WITH MY HEAD!!!!!!!!!!

    Well after reading replies and others, looks like head is coming off then to shop.
    What a waste, self inflicted wound.
    Just read your build Rugged, Wow, different bike and nice plates, still doesn't run. HUH.
    Well if I can't put in and take out a plug properly, I can't fix this. Have a neighbor, (paid mechanic),
    that can do this type of work, so I guess I'll throw some money his way. I do know that all of you would be willing to help and I do appreciate this, much so, but will pay to just have it done. Did this type of work, valves, cams, pistons, cranks. carbs, 2 stroke porting, almost anything when I was young but left a little washer off a oil filter on a 1977 r100/7. Put a new one in and now had 2 washers so no oil and fried the motor 3 miles later.Common mistake but I didn't know. Beautiful bike, had it 2 days, just needed oil change. lost all confidence for 25 yrs. Just getting it back slowly and this. Just bought oil filter for my xt225, maybe have my mechanic change it. At least I won't ruin it.
    Guess I won't be selling the dr650 so soon.

    A 1995 virgin that is not anymore.

    Thanks again,

    Heirhead
  17. cwc

    cwc Been here awhile

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    Once you get the head off you might be able to get the remaining threads to screw INTO the combustion chamber if the top isn't buggered up at the break.

    But don't force it.:wink:
  18. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    Heirhead, don't feel too bad about the spark plug. It probably wasn't anything you did. Don't think you could have cross threaded the plug without knowing it. It was very common for plugs to bind up and pull threads in the old air cooled VWs. Combination of heat and dissimilar metals. I used to use powered graphite on the threads before installation to help with the problem. I think there are products available for this now, but it needs to conduct current/voltage and not turn to JB Weld when things get really hot. I trust graphite. If the treads are bad, There are a couple of different ways to repair them. I use Helicoils because that's what we used on missle air frames. I've installed LOTS of Helicoils with no problems, but they do need to be installed correctly. Some others like the solid sleeve type insert (Timesert etc). Others would weld up the hole solid, drill and re-tap it. A lot of the race teams use Helicoils or other type of insert on brand new heads from the start as a preventive measure. Ask around, your mechanic or someone in the area will have experience in this kind of repair.
  19. heirhead

    heirhead Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the kind words and wisdom.
    My foot has hole in it where I shot myself and now will get it fixed, the bike that is.
    Will be plodding along in the mud soon, I hope. Love the 350, just right.

    Thanks again,

    Heirhead
  20. TinyTim

    TinyTim Noob

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    Hotmamaandme, Bonerov, MrPulldown,
    Thank you guys for the tips on the Oil Cooler.
    After reading "Pablo's DR350" and "DisTech's DR350 rebuild" threads, I now have a pretty good idea on the install.
    Cheers !!