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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.
those look awesome! Damn! to bad i cant read all that crap, or figure out what they cost!? lol
Did an oil change on my new to me 97 dr350se. I changed the oil filter, as well.
I put one quart in, started the bike up, turned it off, put the other quart in. It says '1700ml' on the frame but is that for just the frame and I need more for the crank case?
Because when I run the bike for 3 minutes, turn off, wait a minute and read the dipstick (by not screwing it in) it reads 'L' or Low.
Two quarts is around 1892 ml.. thats obviously more than 1700 ml.... any ideas?
2 quarts with a filter change is the right amount. The dip stick is terrible on the DR. You have to hold your tongue just right, stand on one foot, close your right eye 3/4 of the way and humm Camptown Races to get an accurate reading.
Amen! Forget that 3 minute routine - it never worked for me. Put in 2 quarts with a filter change and if it ain't leaking on the floor, you are good to go. I have a very strict habit of checking the oil immediately after each ride or when I stop to refuel on long trips. I always get accurate readings then. Best of all, I don't have to go through some ridiculous checking-oil-routine the next time I want to ride the motorcycle.
Lack of oil is the easiest way to toast the otherwise very reliable DR350. Check it every time :>
Re: lack of oil
Get one of the screw-in thermometers that replace the dipstick. I ordered one on eBay, cost about $30 shipped from Germany.
I've had one on my bike for a bit and I usually see about 80-120C depending on ambient temperature and how quickly I'm moving. I mainly use the gauge as a way to make sure I've got enough oil in the bike. If it doesn't rise above 40c after a few minutes of riding, it probably needs to be topped off.
Ghostyman, I closed my LEFT eye instead of my right, that's it !
Thanks for the responses guys I appreciate it. I guess I'll just be checking my oil more regularly than normal. As long as its 2 quarts I should be good to go.
thanks again !
where'd ya get one of these at? lol
the time is upon me to start getting the bike ready for rippin shit up. The rear of the bike is good to go! (SHAKE AND BAKE!!) the front it my main priority here..pretty much from handlebars down! On my list of stuff i have: New front tire, bearings, Tube, Brake pads, Rotor, oil change, Throttle tube, grips, and some plastic covers for my brush busters. (also need to mount my "headlight crash cage" that i bought, but doesnt fit real well with the brush busters...) If anyones got suggestions on Rotor/pad combos, let me know. Also suggestions on a good front tire that'll hold its ground on the road, and on the dirt...gonna run my 606 rear for a while this year till everything dries up then ill switch over to my Kenda to finish it off and replace this fall. so...if anyones got good links on tires, brakes, rotors, hit me with em! Thanks boys!! Woooot!
What's needed to improve the front brake feel? Mine feels like grabbing grandma's ass -- all mush and no push....
Tell her to do some squats.
And flush your brake fluid. A lot of people report better feel with stainless steel brake lines (immediately followed by a post from someone saying that they make no difference in actual braking. How are your pads?
Oil change with filter I also do 2 quarts
I just flushed my front brake that almost pulled to the bar. With new fluid it's nice and firm.
It cost $144. plus shipping, pretty pricey. theres vinyl wrap for half the price but have to fit it yourself
Got a order source where you got your oil temp gauge?
Got head back, the bikes, from machine shop with time sert in and ready to go. Snapped plug off at head. Not cross threaded as they said I tightened to tight and did not use anti seize. Broke it off, taking it out! Oh well, never used anti seize before but will now.
Worlds worst mechanic
Current eBay auction: http://www.ebay.com/itm/18049817821...Categories&_from=R40&_nkw=180498178219&_rdc=1
and here's a German info page: http://www.rr-motorsport-ries.de/motorrad/produkt.htm
Here's a pic installed on a DR350 (not my pic):
The bottom of the probe is at the midpoint of the hash marks on the dipstick. When the gauge stops registering over something like 60C, check your oil.
Look like it's gone up in price since I got mine. About $48 shipped from Germany
I've been thinking about putting one of these on my 98DR350SE.
Here's a link to another current seller on Ebay; not sure of your conversion rate but it looks a bit cheaper?
There's also some useful info on oil temperature gauges from Pablo, back on Page 20 of this very thread....
I have been a longtime lurker and joined a few months ago. Finally picked up my 97 DR350SE with about 6200 miles.
I have done a few things, such as: Oil change with filter, new front tire (DOT approved) it is a pirelli trial tire. I changed the tank decal from the pinkish stock one and grabbed this oem decal that came with the bike. I also have a plastic tank that the bike came with..
I just put new front brake pads in last night.
Here are a few pictures, finally.. Could someone tell me what carb I have? I will post up more pictures once I get out my actual camera!
It's hard to see but it says "Mikuni"
Needs to be cleaned !
That's a nice looking bike. That would be the CV carb.
also known as a BST33
The big black plastic cap on top says "CV". That cap holds the diaphragm. Pumpers look like this:
smc5735 - Nice bike. Yes, its a CV carb. Stock on all DR350SE models.
Throw away that stock foam air filter if it is older than 5 years. My guess it is the one that came with the bike when it was new, making it 16 years old. Those stock filters start to disintegrate when they get old and the pieces are ingested into the engine. I saw this happen on my DR350. Recommend a Uni, No Toil, Moose, or some other good aftermarket air filter. Keep the plastic cage inside the stock air filter; you will need that inside your new air filter.
Now go get it dirty.