DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. markk900

    markk900 Been here awhile

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    734
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    Can't quite tell but I believe Light Green is for the Right side turn signal, so assume the other wire is for the Left side turn signal.

    For the two wire hookup - can you see the color of the wires?

    Can you read the code on the side of the carbs? That could help confirm what you have.
  2. mustangwagz

    mustangwagz Been here awhile

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    Impact Driver, Dremel (as you stated) or my favorite is taking Vise-Grips, Bitting down on that stuck ole bitch, and giving it a little twist. Breaks em loose enough to take em out with the screw stick!
  3. markk900

    markk900 Been here awhile

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    Oh - the choke should be easy to move - carefully unscrew the plunger from the carb body (careful because the nut is made of plastic that will self destruct if you look at it sideways)....move to other carb, screw it back in.
  4. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    That is it. Jsut grab the knob and start unscrewing. I will look into it tonight
  5. FireDog45

    FireDog45 Mid-life crisis sufferer

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    Recently picked up a '99 and have been slowly going through it. Rebuilt the carb and suspension with some help from Jesse, added new bars, bark busters, grips and rear rack. Scored an Acerbis tank and got that all plumbed in. Also spent some time going over all the nuts, bolts and fluids.

    During the test ride I found everything worked very well; she pulled hard all the way to redline, the brakes were better than I expected and the suspension felt pretty damn good. The only issue was the severely out of balance wheels. I R&R'd the front tire then static balanced it (took almost 3 oz!)- better but above 60 mph it was not pleasant.

    The question for y'all is this: do you run without the rim lock, try to balance it out or just run it and not worry about the out of balance issue?

    I will be using this for on pavement as well as some trail riding but my style is more "motoring along quietly" rather than jumping and roosting.

    Are the rim locks even necessary for someone like me?

    Thanks!
  6. mustangwagz

    mustangwagz Been here awhile

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    By sounds of it, i do more offroad than you do...and i dont run em at all! THEY SUCK when it comes to balancing! Just break them down, tear em out, and be on your happy, unvibrating way! lol Trust me! hahaha
  7. Stretch67

    Stretch67 Mad Scientist

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    Rim locks aren't needed when you run normal tire pressures. However, 100% of my riding is off-road, with a large portion of that being low-speed single track with ruts, rocks, and roots, so I air down to about 10 psi allowing the tires to spread out and grab the terrain. Rim locks are a necessity in this case, preventing the tire from slipping on the rim when I nail the throttle. Without them the valve stem would be torn out of the tube.
  8. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    I don't use em on this bike, but my style is VERY relaxed. If you have newish tires ( soft/sticky) and run around 20psi you should be good. Don't tighten down the stem nut so you can tell if it slips any.
  9. Greaslife

    Greaslife Adventurer

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2013
    Oddometer:
    92
    Location:
    wildomar ca
    Hi I'm Josh I'm a NOBE with a 2013 DR 650 . I have been lurking for a while and thought I would say what's up. Just rode 68 miles today to and from work in riverside my ass isn't happy nore is my back.O yah my right had goes numb after about 20-25 miles
    Whats the first thing you would do or fix these.
    I'm 6.4 and 300lbs.
    I'm planing on going full expo/desert . Just too get an idea. Any feed back would be grate.

    I know this has probably all ready been talked about. But My A.D.D kicks in real quick when searching for answers.
    Thanks too all for the help


    Thinks for looking from
    J&S Garage-works
    Wildomar Ca.
  10. markk900

    markk900 Been here awhile

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    Not the knob - the base....
  11. MadChap

    MadChap Been here awhile

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    Hi noob.......this is the DR350 thread. While you may find lots of opinions here, you're probably better served going over to the DR650 thread....?
  12. Greaslife

    Greaslife Adventurer

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    wildomar ca
    My bad sorry for the interruption


    Thinks for looking from
    J&S Garage-works
    Wildomar Ca.
  13. FireDog45

    FireDog45 Mid-life crisis sufferer

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    I kinda figured my riding style wouldn't require them and it seems you all agree. I'm going to be installing new 244's and figured I'd just remove them then. If it looks like my riding may need them back in I'll re-install 'em and figure something out.

    Thanks for the help!
  14. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Rim locks are a pain to balance and add difficulty when changing tubes/tires. All the same, I run them because I don't really envy the alternative.

    I ride a lot of rocky terrain out here in Arizona. I typically keep my tires at about 14/18 front/rear. But, I do air down to maybe 12/14 front/rear on occasion. I do not know if these pressures pose any danger or not?

    I got tired of fitting so many weights on the rim to balance out the rim lock. So, I fit two rim locks in each wheel. I certainly do not need the extra gripping power. Instead, one really serves as an internal balance weight. I still use weights externally, just not nearly so many. With the wheels balanced, I can run 70 MPH with no wheel vibration at all.

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  15. cwc

    cwc .

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    I don't have a 1990, but per the wiring diagram it looks like the these could be for the sidestand switch. It looks like they are green and Black/white.

    If the other connector has Brown and Black/white wires it could be for the license plate light.

    The wiring diagram in the factory service manual is pretty good in that it shows wire colors and number of pins/connector as well as (sort of) the relative position of connectors.
  16. a1fa

    a1fa Throttle Jockey™

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    I rode the 91 DR350S (kick only) to work this morning... makes me wonder why did Suzuki ever have to mess with something that is so well rounded. the drz400 was a failure when compared to dr350s.... the engine, the transmission... this thing is just perfect in every way. instead of shaving pounds, and maybe going to fuel injection, they discontinued one of their better products... shame on you Suzuki.
  17. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Dude I am such a noob. Some times the most apparent things are not unless some one points them out to you.
    Thanks

    The only indenticating number I can find on the carb is on the butterfly. Somedouble square symbol and a "115". Maybe there is something else under the grime but I don't think so.
    [​IMG]

    Still not exactly sure what this screw does. It seems like it is a drain. But rather than draining from the bottom of the bowl, it drains from the top of a tube (towards the top of the bowl) to that little nub. Maybe it is open and is an overflow.
    [​IMG]

    Should read this thread if you want a step by step on these carbs. BST's or CV carbs all seem to be built the same.
    http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184
  18. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Thanks. I have a hard time with the wiring diamgram when trying to trace unknown connectors. I can read them ok, but the layout does not correlate to the actual loctions on the bike. Being color blind and having faded wires does not help.

    I think you might be right on the licnese plate light as the bike is missing its. So far it does not seem like it is needed.

    That extra plug might be there on my running DR350SE. I remember seeing it and wondering. Might just be an extra plug. It is not the side stand safety as that connector is green and on the other side of the bike. I have already clipped it.
  19. brianjonesphoto

    brianjonesphoto Single Track Noob

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    Feb 24, 2007
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    My approach was a light weight rim lock. I weighed it prior to installing I bought some lead wire fishing weight and wrapped and equal mass of lead in the 2 spokes opposite the rim lock. No balance issues in 2 years.


    Typos and nonsensical words courtesy of fat fingers on a make believe keyboard.
  20. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    If you're looking for how to remove the choke/enrichment knob, there is a brass nut underneath the rubber boot (lower left of your photo above). Your carb is the stock CV carb for street-going versions of the DR350 BTW.

    That screw is indeed the drain screw and it defintely drains from the bottom of the float bowl. The brass tube is indeed an overflow and does not go via the screw but drains straight out.