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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.
What he said.
Spring looks to be around the corner and it is time to start working on the bikes.
So I have a bastard child DR that I would like to get running. It was a 90DR350S. The PO crashed it and found a DR250S of the same year. Swapped out some busted stuff and then tried to swap out the motor. I think he bent/damaged the shift rod splined area of the 350 and did not think it was repairable.
SO what I have is a DR350 chassis with a 250 motor in it that I am trying to fire up. The PO said he could not get it running but didn't give any details. I figured out some electrical issues. The neutral swtich does not work. The Side stand safety switched is also damaged. Put the two together and no spark. Well there is one spark but not any more after the first. Bypassed the side stand safety and now I have spark. The wiring harness is all chopped up so it is hard to figure out what is what.
-Question: There are two wires hanging off the back near the battery (yellow circle). What are these for?? Look like they would go to the starter solinode (sp?). But this bike being a kicker doesn't have one fo those. The other two wires I know are for the battery.
-The neutral switch is a single wire connection. What is the other unused white connector in the white circle. It is a two wire jobbie.
-Carbs. The bastard bike came with a bin of parts including two CV carbs. I think they are the smaller ones used for the 250 as the engine side opening is smaller than the 350 pumper I have lying around to compare. I did not want to tear off my CV on my running bike to compare. One of the carbs is much freasher, but is msising the choke knob. Is there an easy way to swap them out?
-What is the screw on the bottom of the carb on the float bowl. (not pictured) Leads to a tube on the inside of the float bowl.
It's called a "line of fire" injury. Something we have ALL done at one time or another, most of us several times, some of us many times and will continue to do so periodically. In the work arena, a good employer will demand that employees simply NEVER place body parts in the line of fire from a hand tool. As a safety professional, I try to set a good example and since I made a personal policy of behaving the same way at home, I have not had any such injuries. Don't ask mee about how bad carb cleaner stings when it gets in your eyes however.
Hold that sucker the wrong way or swing the hammer inaccurately and you can give just as much blood and maybe break a few bones for good measure. ...Unless you're talking about a powered impact driver, in which case you've only got concerns related to compressed air or electricity.
It's a (potentially) dangerous world out there, be adventurous but manage your risks.
Personally, I don't think a job is done right without a drop or two of my blood in or on it!
Kidding - normally pretty safe however one does make silly mistakes under the self-imposed pressure of trying to fix a problem....
Can't quite tell but I believe Light Green is for the Right side turn signal, so assume the other wire is for the Left side turn signal.
For the two wire hookup - can you see the color of the wires?
Can you read the code on the side of the carbs? That could help confirm what you have.
Impact Driver, Dremel (as you stated) or my favorite is taking Vise-Grips, Bitting down on that stuck ole bitch, and giving it a little twist. Breaks em loose enough to take em out with the screw stick!
Oh - the choke should be easy to move - carefully unscrew the plunger from the carb body (careful because the nut is made of plastic that will self destruct if you look at it sideways)....move to other carb, screw it back in.
That is it. Jsut grab the knob and start unscrewing. I will look into it tonight
Recently picked up a '99 and have been slowly going through it. Rebuilt the carb and suspension with some help from Jesse, added new bars, bark busters, grips and rear rack. Scored an Acerbis tank and got that all plumbed in. Also spent some time going over all the nuts, bolts and fluids.
During the test ride I found everything worked very well; she pulled hard all the way to redline, the brakes were better than I expected and the suspension felt pretty damn good. The only issue was the severely out of balance wheels. I R&R'd the front tire then static balanced it (took almost 3 oz!)- better but above 60 mph it was not pleasant.
The question for y'all is this: do you run without the rim lock, try to balance it out or just run it and not worry about the out of balance issue?
I will be using this for on pavement as well as some trail riding but my style is more "motoring along quietly" rather than jumping and roosting.
Are the rim locks even necessary for someone like me?
By sounds of it, i do more offroad than you do...and i dont run em at all! THEY SUCK when it comes to balancing! Just break them down, tear em out, and be on your happy, unvibrating way! lol Trust me! hahaha
Rim locks aren't needed when you run normal tire pressures. However, 100% of my riding is off-road, with a large portion of that being low-speed single track with ruts, rocks, and roots, so I air down to about 10 psi allowing the tires to spread out and grab the terrain. Rim locks are a necessity in this case, preventing the tire from slipping on the rim when I nail the throttle. Without them the valve stem would be torn out of the tube.
I don't use em on this bike, but my style is VERY relaxed. If you have newish tires ( soft/sticky) and run around 20psi you should be good. Don't tighten down the stem nut so you can tell if it slips any.
Hi I'm Josh I'm a NOBE with a 2013 DR 650 . I have been lurking for a while and thought I would say what's up. Just rode 68 miles today to and from work in riverside my ass isn't happy nore is my back.O yah my right had goes numb after about 20-25 miles
Whats the first thing you would do or fix these.
I'm 6.4 and 300lbs.
I'm planing on going full expo/desert . Just too get an idea. Any feed back would be grate.
I know this has probably all ready been talked about. But My A.D.D kicks in real quick when searching for answers.
Thanks too all for the help
Thinks for looking from
Not the knob - the base....
Hi noob.......this is the DR350 thread. While you may find lots of opinions here, you're probably better served going over to the DR650 thread....?
My bad sorry for the interruption
Thinks for looking from
I kinda figured my riding style wouldn't require them and it seems you all agree. I'm going to be installing new 244's and figured I'd just remove them then. If it looks like my riding may need them back in I'll re-install 'em and figure something out.
Thanks for the help!
Rim locks are a pain to balance and add difficulty when changing tubes/tires. All the same, I run them because I don't really envy the alternative.
I ride a lot of rocky terrain out here in Arizona. I typically keep my tires at about 14/18 front/rear. But, I do air down to maybe 12/14 front/rear on occasion. I do not know if these pressures pose any danger or not?
I got tired of fitting so many weights on the rim to balance out the rim lock. So, I fit two rim locks in each wheel. I certainly do not need the extra gripping power. Instead, one really serves as an internal balance weight. I still use weights externally, just not nearly so many. With the wheels balanced, I can run 70 MPH with no wheel vibration at all.
I don't have a 1990, but per the wiring diagram it looks like the these could be for the sidestand switch. It looks like they are green and Black/white.
If the other connector has Brown and Black/white wires it could be for the license plate light.
The wiring diagram in the factory service manual is pretty good in that it shows wire colors and number of pins/connector as well as (sort of) the relative position of connectors.