DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. a1fa

    a1fa Throttle Jockey™

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2006
    Oddometer:
    13,907
    Location:
    Arkansas
    I rode the 91 DR350S (kick only) to work this morning... makes me wonder why did Suzuki ever have to mess with something that is so well rounded. the drz400 was a failure when compared to dr350s.... the engine, the transmission... this thing is just perfect in every way. instead of shaving pounds, and maybe going to fuel injection, they discontinued one of their better products... shame on you Suzuki.
  2. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,607
    Location:
    Truckee
    Dude I am such a noob. Some times the most apparent things are not unless some one points them out to you.
    Thanks

    The only indenticating number I can find on the carb is on the butterfly. Somedouble square symbol and a "115". Maybe there is something else under the grime but I don't think so.
    [​IMG]

    Still not exactly sure what this screw does. It seems like it is a drain. But rather than draining from the bottom of the bowl, it drains from the top of a tube (towards the top of the bowl) to that little nub. Maybe it is open and is an overflow.
    [​IMG]

    Should read this thread if you want a step by step on these carbs. BST's or CV carbs all seem to be built the same.
    http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=347184
  3. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,607
    Location:
    Truckee

    Thanks. I have a hard time with the wiring diamgram when trying to trace unknown connectors. I can read them ok, but the layout does not correlate to the actual loctions on the bike. Being color blind and having faded wires does not help.

    I think you might be right on the licnese plate light as the bike is missing its. So far it does not seem like it is needed.

    That extra plug might be there on my running DR350SE. I remember seeing it and wondering. Might just be an extra plug. It is not the side stand safety as that connector is green and on the other side of the bike. I have already clipped it.
  4. brianjonesphoto

    brianjonesphoto Single Track Noob

    Joined:
    Feb 24, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,574
    Location:
    The Brier Patch, WA
    My approach was a light weight rim lock. I weighed it prior to installing I bought some lead wire fishing weight and wrapped and equal mass of lead in the 2 spokes opposite the rim lock. No balance issues in 2 years.


    Typos and nonsensical words courtesy of fat fingers on a make believe keyboard.
  5. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2003
    Oddometer:
    5,032
    Location:
    Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
    If you're looking for how to remove the choke/enrichment knob, there is a brass nut underneath the rubber boot (lower left of your photo above). Your carb is the stock CV carb for street-going versions of the DR350 BTW.

    That screw is indeed the drain screw and it defintely drains from the bottom of the float bowl. The brass tube is indeed an overflow and does not go via the screw but drains straight out.
  6. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,607
    Location:
    Truckee
    Thanks I figured out the choke. I swaped out the entire thing, plunger and all. I did so by unscrewing it from the body via the 14mm plastic nut.

    I was under the impression that this was the BST31 carb found on the DR250 rather than the BST33 for the dr350. However micing the output orifice of the carb I get 1.296". That is pretty dang close to the 1.299 which would be 33mm. So you might be right.
  7. Rich667

    Rich667 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    178
    Location:
    Dauphin, PA
    I used to rip valve stems out left and right with no rimlock when dirt riding. It depends on air pressure and how/where you ride. You could also install a second rim lock opposite of the first to help with balancing.
  8. smc5735

    smc5735 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2012
    Oddometer:
    50
    Beautiful day to go riding.

    After some issues this winter with my 97', I tested her out today.

    Cleaned the carb last night, brand new UNI air filter, new brake pads and fresh oil !

    [​IMG]
  9. markk900

    markk900 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2012
    Oddometer:
    489
    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    The number is under the grime on the side of the carb body where the slide goes up and down....it will give you an idea of which bike the carb was originally in (if you do lots of research in the shop manual).

    As others have said its a drain screw (in about as good condition as the one I just replaced....the head gets messed up pretty easily.
  10. OldUKBikerGuy

    OldUKBikerGuy Cultural Attaché

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2012
    Oddometer:
    27
    Location:
    Poole, Dorset, United Kingdom
    When I picked up my '97 DR350SE last year, the PO had removed both rim locks and fitted some self-tapping screws through the rims and into the tyre walls; apparently it was an old trials-riding mod that has been around for years.

    Looks a bit weird, but hey presto, no balancing issues and no slippage, even with really low pressures.

    It works for me - YMMV.
  11. Stretch67

    Stretch67 Mad Scientist

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,068
    Location:
    Bent, But Not Broken
    That's an old drag-racing trick also.

    [​IMG]
  12. NWRambler

    NWRambler Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2013
    Oddometer:
    55
    Location:
    Northwestest US
    I'm curious about doing that. Are the screws just short enough that they don't go through the tire? Gotta get that right or puncture the tube, I would think. Do they hit just out board of the bead? Or go right at it? Thanks.
  13. OldUKBikerGuy

    OldUKBikerGuy Cultural Attaché

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2012
    Oddometer:
    27
    Location:
    Poole, Dorset, United Kingdom
    I have yet to take my tyres off, but I guess the screws are just long enough to get a grip into the sidewall, yet not right through, for obvious reasons.

    The tyre should be thick enough at this point to be able to estimate this, and the inner tube shouldn't be this low inside the tyre to be near the screw anyway.

    The photo that Stretch67 posted above shows how it's done very well.....and if it works on dragsters, we should be OK!
  14. OldUKBikerGuy

    OldUKBikerGuy Cultural Attaché

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2012
    Oddometer:
    27
    Location:
    Poole, Dorset, United Kingdom
    When I said 'sidewall', I of course meant 'bead'. My bad. :doh
  15. Stretch67

    Stretch67 Mad Scientist

    Joined:
    Mar 22, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,068
    Location:
    Bent, But Not Broken
    Having no experience with running screws into a tire bead, you can take this with a grain of salt, but I wouldn't drill into the bead of the tire. Drilling may break one of the strands of wire in the bead, which couldn't be a good thing. Just drill the rim, and then slowly run the screw into the bead, allowing the screw to gently work its way between the strands of wire in there without breaking any of them.
  16. NWRambler

    NWRambler Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2013
    Oddometer:
    55
    Location:
    Northwestest US
    Sounds like good advice, Stretch. I did a little more looking around and found this: http://www.buchananspokes.net/categories/miscellaneous_tools.asp Seems like a more prudent approach. When the spring rubber goes on, I think I might give them a try. I still need to figure out how many it takes to have any real effect. Anybody got any experience with these?
  17. thump!

    thump! Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,713
    Location:
    Northeast Tennessee
    The screws will function like a rim lock UNTIL you have a flat. If you try to ride on the flat there is some possibility they will release the bead (rim locks won't) and make a mess of the tire bead. Then there is the issue of field repair... gonna take a while to back out all those screws on the side of the trail. I hate rim locks but they do work. I expect that if I had to repair a flat in the woods I would hate bead screws even more.
  18. kobukan

    kobukan almost gnarly

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,712
    Location:
    Saco ME
    Personally, I don't find the rim locks to be difficult to deal with, once you get used to them. At first I thought they were a pain, but having changed tires numerous times now, they don't bother me at all, and I don't seem to have to use a lot of weight to get the tires balanced. YMMV
  19. RuggedExposure

    RuggedExposure Now with more rugged

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,263
    Location:
    NM desert wasteland
    My bead locks caused a flat on the dr350 by rubbing a hole in the tube. So out they went.
    I personally don't see why they exist...
    I rode 25 miles through rough terrain on a flat on my Terra 650 a few weeks ago and it has no bead locks.
    I didn't have my tool kit because i bought the bike the day before. But nothing bad happened, just had to go slow.
  20. ADV BUM

    ADV BUM Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    124