DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. SFC_Ren

    SFC_Ren Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2013
    Oddometer:
    117
    Location:
    Salem,Oregon
    Well, I picked up a '90 DR350S with 7,600 miles late last summer took it on a couple shakedown rides. The vibration from the Dunlop D606's killed me while commuting from Salem to Portland so I put on a set of Shinko Trail masters and switched the 13/43 sprockets to 15/43. Much better on the freeway. It's pretty much stock except for some type of renthal bars and a cobra exhaust. It's a bear to start when cold so I just adjusted the valves and Just pulled the carb for a good cleaning, waiting on a magneto cover gasket and a raptor petcock to put everything back together.
    If I can turn this DR into a 1-3 kick bike I'll keep it and start modifying it with a larger tank and racks in the back otherwise it's gonna be on craigslist soon.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
  2. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Truckee

    Assume you mean the stick on case saver, vs the sprocket one.Never seen one.
  3. coonass35

    coonass35 Adventurer

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    Oct 13, 2010
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    80
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    Moody Alabama

    Yeah that is what I meant.
  4. Teeeeeemu

    Teeeeeemu Been here awhile

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    Feb 27, 2012
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    Finland
    DRZ needs them cause the cases are some weak magnesium stuff. DR steel I guess
  5. thump!

    thump! Adventurer

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    If you haven't already done so, remove the EPA seal over (actually under) the idle mixture screw and back that little guy out about 1/2 - 3/4 turn. Makes a huge difference in starting.
  6. SFC_Ren

    SFC_Ren Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 18, 2013
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Salem,Oregon
    The idle mixture screw had already been unplugged and messed with. I'm setting it at two turns out from fully seated to start with. The jetting in the carb is all stock with the idle jet being #37.5 and the main jet is a #135. It seems to run well even with the airbox cutout and the cobra pipe but I suppose it should be running lean.

    Thanks for the suggestions.
  7. e28rusty

    e28rusty Fool

    Joined:
    May 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    83
    Location:
    Willamette valley, OR
    I recently bought a project from my buddy, it's a street legal '90 dr350. He bought it last year and road it for the season before buying a drz. He replaced the carb with a new tm33 and after riding it with the new carb for a few months we installed a keintech header and fmf muffler, while we were dialing in the jetting with the new pipe it was acting a bit weird and eventually stopped running well at all. Now it won't rev all the way out.

    I have cleaned the carb very thoroughly several times and changed the main jet out from 127.5 to 142.5. It runs best with the 127.5, but it still won't rev all the way. I'm pretty sure something isn't right because it should run aruond a 140. Pilot is stock. The choke (enrichment) doesn't seem to have much impact on how it runs at all.

    the bike idles and runs great, even at WOT, until you get it revved up. I've been screwing with the carb so much with negligible impact I'm wondering if it could be cdi. Or could there be fuel leaking through somewhere making it run way rich?

    Any help would be great, sympathy is also appreciated.



    The video is with a 140 main jet, it took me about 200 kicks to get it fired up, when it was running right it would start after 2..
    It's pretty loud, you might want to turn it down before watching.

    <iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/QTD1C3vCB9k" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
  8. thump!

    thump! Adventurer

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    I'm sure some will disagree but reading the thumper treads here and on thumpertalk reveals a fairly consistent reoccurring theme for me. I think cutting the airbox or removing the lid makes a kick start single harder to start. Since a single gets only one opportunity to fire for each two revolutions there are about 540 degrees of revolution when air isn't moving through the intake tract at all. Unlike electric start that keeps air moving thru the intake repeatedly in rapid succession, the kickstarter DR350 passes thru only one intake and compression stroke per kick and there is a relatively long pause while the operator resets to kick again. Doesn't matter how hard you kick it, the gearing of the kickstarter provides only ONE chance to fire so conditions need to be right at that precise moment. I'm not sure WHY the lack of airbox resistance results in hard starting on kickstarter bikes but I'm convinced it does.
  9. kobukan

    kobukan almost gnarly

    Joined:
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    Saco ME
    I would be one to disagree. I have a '99 DR350 dirt model with a pumper carb and opened up airbox - it usually starts (15k miles so far) on the first kick (sometimes takes two) regardless of whether the bike is warm or cold, and in any temps - winter or summer. 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Accent 6"/> <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="67" SemiHidden="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 1 Accent 6"/> <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="68" SemiHidden="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 2 Accent 6"/> <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="69" SemiHidden="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Medium Grid 3 Accent 6"/> <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="70" SemiHidden="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Dark List Accent 6"/> <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="71" SemiHidden="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Shading Accent 6"/> <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="72" SemiHidden="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful List Accent 6"/> <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="73" SemiHidden="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" Name="Colorful Grid Accent 6"/> <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="19" SemiHidden="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Emphasis"/> <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="21" SemiHidden="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Emphasis"/> <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="31" SemiHidden="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Subtle Reference"/> <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="32" SemiHidden="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Intense Reference"/> <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="33" SemiHidden="false" UnhideWhenUsed="false" QFormat="true" Name="Book Title"/> <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="37" Name="Bibliography"/> <w:LsdException Locked="false" Priority="39" QFormat="true" Name="TOC Heading"/> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman","serif";} </style> <![endif]-->below 0°F (one crazy day I took a short ride when it was -2°F). I think if the bike is tuned properly and everything is functioning as it should, the bike should start easily.
  10. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,686
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    Truckee
    Sounds jsut like Rugged's bike
  11. Suzuki Phil

    Suzuki Phil Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2007
    Oddometer:
    651
    Location:
    Simi Valley, CA
    It's because carburetors work on pressure differential, if you change either side you've screwed things up (valve timing exhaust, air cleaner etc).

    I've had my 96 DR350SE for six years and run the stock CV carb and airbox, no issues, great power, excellent gas mileage. Leave the stock carb on and go riding.

    SP
  12. Anonawesome

    Anonawesome Scenic Rider

    Joined:
    Feb 2, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,366
    Location:
    Central OH
    Leave everything stock? :scratch I don't-......I can't even-......


    No comprendo
  13. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,967
    Location:
    DFW TX
    From My Experience. (I've pretty much done nothing but work on motors all my life. In 1952 at 8 yo I was flying 1/2 A control line model airplanes with those little Cox .049 motors. If you could make those little things run you can probably make any thing run. Read every word of every Rod and Custom and HotRod magazine.
    First car was a "49 Ford flathead V8. Put 3 Stromberg 97s on it with scavenger pipes. Thought I was cool. Had a "53 Belair Convertable. "59 Belair Hard Top, "65 GTO and a "68 Dodge Charger R/T 440 Magnum 375 HP. USAF Missle Electronics Guidance and Control Technician. Not quite rocket science, but pretty close. Opened my auto repair shop in "72 and averaged more than 2 major overhauls a week from "72 to "90, mostly air cooled VWs. Built a 440 for my 360 Dodge Maxi Van, Put a turbo on a VW Bus, built a motor for a Formula V race car, built a 4 carb Corvair for a Porsche 912, built buggy motors with two 2 barrel Webers (Webers are great) and Delortos. In "91/"92 ran a Cat 963 Track Loader at McMurdo Station in Antarctica. Closed my shop in "95 and went to work for a rental equipment co/ John Deere Dealer untill I retired. Finished 10th in the Texas State Enduro Circuit(250 class) in "74. Finished 9th in the Texas State Trials Championship Master Class in "76. Rides in Colorado, Mexico, New Mexico, Arkansas, Contintal Divide Trail and ~ 1/3 of the TAT.) Sorry for the long winded list of credits,got carried away and memory lane is just fun.

    Again, From My Experience. When you walk up on an cold bike that's been sitting for a few days or months, more than likely it's in a lean condition. It's probably not gonna start like that. Now, you can either apply the choke and kick/crank from that lean condition untill you get it rich enough to start or some how add enough fuel ( pumper squirt or pour some gas down the carb throat/remove the plug and add fuel) to make it a little rich and open the throttle to add air and kick/crank untill it gets lean enough to start. Down in Antarctica when it was 60 below zero and the big diesels wouldn't start we would soak a shop towel with gas and wrap it around the air filter. Knocked like hell, but it got em started. I don't recommend doing that. I'm sure you have had trouble starting your weed eater or mower after it has been sitting all winter, Dump the old gas, add fresh gas, pull the plug and put a LITTLE gas in the plug hole, open the throttle all the way and crank. It may only run a few seconds untill the prime is gone, but then it's in the right air/fuel condition to start. Works good for bikes too. Of course all of this assumes the rest of the motor is in good operating condition. BIG ASSUMPTION. So you guys with the e-start or pumper carbs have a little advantage (as long as you don't flood them) when it comes to starting. The kick start models with the CV carbs are gonna be the harder to start. That's why Greg says he kicks his through several times to prime it before he trys to start it. But then the guys with the CV carbs are gonna get better gas mileage and better altitude compensation. There are always trade offs. Hope this helps. :D
  14. RuggedExposure

    RuggedExposure Now with more rugged

    Joined:
    Apr 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,270
    Location:
    NM desert wasteland
    And this is what happens when you pop wheelies in cowboy boots with no seat on the bike:
    [​IMG]

    Gonna go straighten out the bars now and take it for a ride on the trail.
  15. markk900

    markk900 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 13, 2012
    Oddometer:
    505
    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    Totally unfair Rugged! If its running well enough to throw you off I NEED TO KNOW WHAT YOU DID!

    (ps. rash doesn't look horrible but it'll sting for a while!).
  16. smc5735

    smc5735 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2012
    Oddometer:
    50
    Hey everyone,

    Just a question on how to remove the forks from a 97' DR350SE. The reason is because I purchased new fork boots and will be replacing the old yellow ones with new black day star boots.

    The forks are stock on my bike, I'm assuming I have to put the boots on from the top of the forks once they are off.

    Thanks in advance!
  17. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,686
    Location:
    Truckee
    the fork legs are held on by the clamps on top, thing the handle bars attach to. Undo the 4 pinch bolts on each side. Two on the top clamp two on the bottom. It would be best to remove the front wheel, and remove each leg seperatly. Once at this point jsut pull each leg down. Might have to pry open the clamps with a screw driver. Might need to remove the brake caliper on one side and the speedo cable guide on the other.

    Make sure you note how far up on the fork legs it was clampped. Mark with sharpie, so that you know where to reinstall them.
  18. FireDog45

    FireDog45 Mid-life crisis sufferer

    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2006
    Oddometer:
    852
    Location:
    Central, Ohio
    Can I assume that it will rev up if you SLOWLY roll on the throttle? If that's the case I would look at fuel flow. Start at the petcock and move in to the float. Did you check float height? You said you cleaned everything but what did all the rubber bits look like?

    I'm just throwing darts here but my gut is telling me you're running away from fuel. Of course that's assuming my first sentence is correct, if not i got nothin...
  19. mustangwagz

    mustangwagz Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2012
    Oddometer:
    247
    Location:
    Western PA
    IS IT running properly and correctly 100%? If so, you best be posting what ya came up with RE...cuz its been like Forever ago that this happend, fuck...you even went and bought a different bike...lol i see the DR gave you a booboo for trading it in! LOL So whatd ya come up with??
  20. e28rusty

    e28rusty Fool

    Joined:
    May 16, 2011
    Oddometer:
    83
    Location:
    Willamette valley, OR
    It behaves the same no matter how fast you crack it. It has a raptor petcock and the float is just below the seam.
    The rubber looks new, and there's no varnish or anything in there. It looks like a new carb.
    I just snagged a used cdi on ebay so we'll try that in 3-5 business days, I'm not really sure what else could be going on.