DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. redleger

    redleger Horrible Mechanic

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  2. Stretch67

    Stretch67 Mad Scientist

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    Call Jesse and ask. He's the DR guru.
  3. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    then let us know. I think it does not fit with our seat.
  4. redleger

    redleger Horrible Mechanic

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    No it's does not :( I really wanna change the look but I really don't want to paint or dye.

    Sent from my KFJWI using Tapatalk HD
  5. jmderyke

    jmderyke Miner

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    Dec 19, 2012
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    State of Jefferson
    Im looking for the stator pulse and trigger coil output voltage specs anyone have em? the clymer manual doesnt specify a/c voltage just resistance. I have the 91 dr350 with the single pickup coil.
  6. Anonawesome

    Anonawesome Scenic Rider

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    Mine is currently doing the exact same thing since I've just put a pumper on. The backfiring is more likely to be caused by running rich (would explain bogging with throttle which also is happening with mine) or your ignition timing being off. I just did a top end rebuild so I'm sure by valves are dead on. I always like to check my ignition timing before messing with jetting. Although it's never a bad idea to check your valves.
  7. PHILinFRANCE

    PHILinFRANCE Long timer

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    Cheers for the reply Anonawesome

    Vales and timing are next on the list , thought i'd sussed it yesterday !!! took the carb apart AGAIN ,popped out the diaphram and needle and found the small circlip NOT FIXED to the needle:eek1

    Put it all back together hoping things would be ok !!! they were better but still not right :cry

    Quick question .............can the timing JUST SLIP ???????

    Cheers all Phil
  8. dbarale

    dbarale Squiddly slow

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    Unlikely. Altough the timing chain sliders can break or the tensioner can run out of adjustment...

    But if it was running fine before sitting it's most likely carb related. Is the petcock flowing freely? Also check the air filter and the fuel filter above the needle valve seat.
  9. thump!

    thump! Adventurer

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    Ignition timing is not adjustable. Valve/cam timing is and can "slip" if the cam chain is too loose. It would have to be pretty much worn out for that to happen though. I suspect you have a mixture problem. It also possible that your coil or spark wire is breaking down or arcing although in my experience that usually occurs under high load as opposed to high revs.
  10. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    You absolutely CAN NOT tell the state of your idle mixture by reading a plug.
  11. cwc

    cwc .

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    I think the reason that they only give resistance is that it is easier to measure and most of the time is a reliable indicator.

    I have a 95SE which is quite different, but most CDI's operate at similar voltages.

    The "power suppy" coil on the stator on mine runs about 75-80 volts AC (rms) with the bike running. I have actually tested the CDI using 110VAC from an outlet. It works fine.

    The output of the trigger coil is a little trickier, but I hooked up an ANALOG voltmeter on the 3 volt DC range and waved a magnet by the coil. I got blips of less that ½ a volt. This will depend on the response time of your voltmeter, but it is an indicator of sorts.

    Using a digital meter (Fluke 77) for this test didn't give useful results.
  12. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Does anyone have a decomp cable and lever they are willing to part with. Too difficult to operate the the decomp with a screw driver and a pair of pliers.
  13. daverbmxer

    daverbmxer Adventurer

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    Oddometer:
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    North Dakota
    I have a FMF muffler that is rattling because the rivets at the tail end are loose. Is it as simple as drilling out the old ones and riveting in new ones? Are long or short rivets better? Any danger of the end bit falling inside the muffler and working its way back into the engine?

    Edit: Thought I'd add a picture.. did a little bit of snow riding yesterday!

    [​IMG]
  14. thump!

    thump! Adventurer

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    Keep in mind that pre-94 models use a single ignition trigger. '94 and newer has two ignition trigger pickups. The CDI on later models will only fire if the two pulses are received in the correct order.
  15. Teeeeeemu

    Teeeeeemu Been here awhile

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    Just drill them out and possibly pick the shrapnel out. Then just new rivets. What do you mean with long or short?

    The stick part gets cut out when you pop in the rivet.
    The lenght doesnt change, only diameter as far as I know.
    Nothing should fall to the inside while installing the rivets.

    Man snow is stupid without studded tires. Couple weeks ago I went to watch a few of my friends riding on ice (Gulf of Finland) with the sun shining and not too cold. Good day.. I was the only one without studs:cry
  16. daverbmxer

    daverbmxer Adventurer

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    I was concerned that the inside part may fall into the muffler and work its way down the pipe. There must be an inner wall to the muffler that the rivet bites into, I was wondering how far away it is. Doubtful anyone would know I guess, but a longer rivet may be needed to reach. I guess I'll find out when I drill.

    Yeah snow riding is dumb, I just went very slow at idle speed in 1st gear for the most part, putting around. The streets are almost dry now that the sun has been shining, so I put 10 miles on doing that today.


    [​IMG]
  17. shootmymime

    shootmymime Adventurer

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  18. inroads

    inroads Wimberley,Texas

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    Feb 12, 2010
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    I love my DR's for a lot of reasons.My biggest complaint is the difficult shifting.drz's xt's and klx's that I own all shift smoothly.
    I have removed some material as described to correct this problem from the kick starter gear but still dont have the smooth shifting I am looking for.
    My Question is: can I ever expect to get the smooth easy shifting commonplace on my drz,xt and klx? or is the DR 350 an inerrant difficult and hard shifter compared to these other 3.
  19. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    You might want to look at rivet nuts.... http://www.google.com/search?q=pop+...9JIrx2QXwooCAAg&ved=0CFUQsAQ&biw=1280&bih=573 ....Then you can remove the end cap if you need to. It's a blind nut that you can install from the outside like a pop rivet. There are several different styles to choose from. My local Ace hardware has them and instalation tools for just a few bucks.
  20. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    My "98SE was a little hard to shift and find neutral. I did the spacer thing ( http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18199055&postcount=11211 ) and it's better. Not as smooth as the old XRs were but I don't think about it any more. If you check back through all the previous posts :D, some others have reported that new clutch plates solved the problem.