DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. daverbmxer

    daverbmxer Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 2, 2012
    Oddometer:
    49
    Location:
    North Dakota
    I was concerned that the inside part may fall into the muffler and work its way down the pipe. There must be an inner wall to the muffler that the rivet bites into, I was wondering how far away it is. Doubtful anyone would know I guess, but a longer rivet may be needed to reach. I guess I'll find out when I drill.

    Yeah snow riding is dumb, I just went very slow at idle speed in 1st gear for the most part, putting around. The streets are almost dry now that the sun has been shining, so I put 10 miles on doing that today.


    [​IMG]
  2. shootmymime

    shootmymime Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2012
    Oddometer:
    28
  3. inroads

    inroads Wimberley,Texas

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2010
    Oddometer:
    330
    I love my DR's for a lot of reasons.My biggest complaint is the difficult shifting.drz's xt's and klx's that I own all shift smoothly.
    I have removed some material as described to correct this problem from the kick starter gear but still dont have the smooth shifting I am looking for.
    My Question is: can I ever expect to get the smooth easy shifting commonplace on my drz,xt and klx? or is the DR 350 an inerrant difficult and hard shifter compared to these other 3.
  4. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    2,548
    Location:
    DFW TX
    You might want to look at rivet nuts.... http://www.google.com/search?q=pop+...9JIrx2QXwooCAAg&ved=0CFUQsAQ&biw=1280&bih=573 ....Then you can remove the end cap if you need to. It's a blind nut that you can install from the outside like a pop rivet. There are several different styles to choose from. My local Ace hardware has them and instalation tools for just a few bucks.
  5. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

    Joined:
    Dec 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    2,548
    Location:
    DFW TX
    My "98SE was a little hard to shift and find neutral. I did the spacer thing ( http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=18199055&postcount=11211 ) and it's better. Not as smooth as the old XRs were but I don't think about it any more. If you check back through all the previous posts :D, some others have reported that new clutch plates solved the problem.
  6. Chiknmunky

    Chiknmunky Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2010
    Oddometer:
    98
    Location:
    On road Off road
    My 99SE shifts great.
  7. jmderyke

    jmderyke Miner

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2012
    Oddometer:
    43
    Location:
    State of Jefferson
    Thanks cwc, The reason I was asking is because I have a fairly weak spark, ignition coil resistance is in spec primary and secondary even put on a new coil, brand new cdi box from horse power ignition, The trigger and source coil resistance are both in spec but the output a/c voltage seems weak. Im getting .3 volts a/c from the trigger coil which I believe is good but the source coil for the cdi im only getting 24 volts a/c which might be the problem. Anyone else might know what voltage I should be getting??
  8. kobukan

    kobukan almost gnarly

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,712
    Location:
    Saco ME
    +1 (99 dirt model)

    My clutch cable broke fifty miles from home once and even without the clutch I was able to shift through gears fairly easily and ride it home.

    A clutch cable that's adjusted a little on the loose side on these bikes can cause the "hard to find neutral" problem though.
  9. inroads

    inroads Wimberley,Texas

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2010
    Oddometer:
    330
    Yes,your right about a loose adjusted cable making a hard to find neutral.
    The adjustment is a fine line between full engagement(no clutch slip) and full disengagement(finding neutral or 1st) made even finer when you add Jesse's easy pull clutch arm.A very narrow sweet spot is the price you pay for that easy pull.

    I believe that I will pull my steel clutch drive plates back out and lay them on a piece of glass to check warpage.I did not notice any blueing when I last had them out for the material removal off the kick start gear.
    BTW Cheap Cycle Parts has those 6 steel drive plates priced at $8 a piece.

    Thanks 2bold2getold for the reference!
  10. Vankaye

    Vankaye n00b on the move

    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2009
    Oddometer:
    230
    Location:
    TampaBay
    My DR shifts much smoother when I blip the throttle and sync the rpm a bit.

    Just a little blip makes a big difference between clunky and perfection...
  11. ADV BUM

    ADV BUM Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    136
    I got the bike so I can ride it. Bags, pivot pegz, bar risers, new bars, handguards, fairing, wrapped the header. I know I will need the suspension resprung. Then the motor upgrades will come. Right now I want to ride it so I can appreciate the new motor. Next thing is to get my other bike running.

    [​IMG]

    The difference between stock pegs and pivotpegz.

    [​IMG]
  12. Chiknmunky

    Chiknmunky Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2010
    Oddometer:
    98
    Location:
    On road Off road
    I am diggin that head light setup! What is it?
  13. ADV BUM

    ADV BUM Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    136
    They are bajadesigns DUAL FUEGO's. When I get some time and money I will be changing the lights out for some LED's.
  14. ElleOn2Wheels

    ElleOn2Wheels Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2012
    Oddometer:
    59
    Apologies if I'm posting in the wrong forum but I couldn't find a DR250 thread and my bike is the small sister of the DR350....

    I'm making a long trip for the 1st time on my DR250. It's just 200 miles which isn't far but in the current british climate (snow), it is!
    Avoiding highways, I reckon it'll take 6-8 hours :(
    So I want to be able to use my heated vest which apparently uses 43W / 3.3 amps.
    But the bike will have it's lights on too.
    The manual doesn't help me. Can anyone here advise?

    It's a 1991 DR250S.
  15. thump!

    thump! Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,770
    Location:
    Northeast Tennessee
    Not really the anwser but for reference the 350 has about 200 watts of generator output.
  16. Wadester

    Wadester Rides a dirty bike

    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,336
    Location:
    'Cruces
    Hmm. My '92 DR350S stator drives dual 65W halogens w/o issue (does dim at idle with both on, but not with just low beam) Best thing to do is get a voltmeter - as long as you're up around 14V everything is good. Get a variable controller for your vest and you can tune things to match.

    Good luck!

    PS: I've also ditched the battery and gone to a capacitor, so I don't have reserve voltage at idle, but I don't have the drain of a halfdead battery half the time anymore either.
  17. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2003
    Oddometer:
    5,962
    Location:
    Southern Louisiana or Southern England or ...
    I have used a heated vest on a longer ride than that - Granted not on max heat but I imagine if you keep the rpm up most of the time you'll be fine. If the headlamp starts to dim all you need to do is turn the jacket down (or off) for a few minutes to put a bit of charge back in the battery. After my 225-mile cold-day ride, I plugged in the batter maintainer and it indicated the battery was fully charged.
  18. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    4,835
    Location:
    Truckee
    looking at adding a capacitor instead of a battery on the kick start DR. I know that some bikes can not do this as they need a charge to start the prossess. I know that the DR is able to ditch the battery.

    Pablo used a 35v 2500uF cap wired in place of the battery.
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15108825&postcount=125

    Any other tips. How do you prevent discharging the cap into you and dying. Would a bigger rating of uF or a smaller one of volts be better?

    Experiances
  19. Frankdozer

    Frankdozer Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2012
    Oddometer:
    21
    Location:
    Bridgton, Maine
    In the past ( 10 plus years ago ) after I got in a good dirt ride I would wash the bike and engine with Simple Green. It did a nice job and also degreased the frame. Now that I'm going to drive the bike again after that many years, what should I use for a protecting spray after I wash it. Maybe CRC or WD-40 or what do you use for a wash and spray down? I going to start driving the bike again. It's a 1990 Suzuki DR350S. I just did an oil change and rebuilt the carb. Thanks, Frank
  20. Wadester

    Wadester Rides a dirty bike

    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,336
    Location:
    'Cruces
    I used an Accel 151308 Battery Eliminator capacitor, I recall the specs are 25V and 27,000microF. Got it for $20, looks like $30 now.

    [​IMG]

    When I turn on the key (on a dark morning) I see the neutral light come on and fade out in less than a second. That's the entire charge of the cap going by. I don't worry about getting zapped, but I would turn on the key and discharge it before I stuck my finger on it.