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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.
Hole in the diaphragm? Valve clearance? Cracked intake boot? Do you have a vacuum activated petcock?
Raptor petcock, diaphragm looks good,no cracks in boot. working on valves today but not so off as to cause the issue i'm having.
So, bike's been slipping since Ive had it (6 months) and finally picked up and EBC lkit with springs, steel and fibers.
Hasn't been bad but you can tell when you start off hard or try and wheelie.
But now I've been looking for a write up before I screw something up but can't find one and the online manual I have just says measure stuff.
Is there a write up or a certain way the plates go in?
I've got them soaking in oil as we speak.
I assume since I can't find a write up it's a stupid easy job?
Also, could I tip the bike sideways and keep the oil in since I just did a change last week and the girlfriend is at work right now so Ill be stranded.
i have those same lights, first thing i bought for my bike.
Not to talk smack, but I think the Durable marker light is a little over engineered. The addition of a metal plate to mount a flush mount turn signal is jsut added weight. Why not jsut buy some flush mouted turn signals and mount them on the fender.
I am jsut barrowing this picture form a couple of post back.
Or if you are using the stock lamps, you can mount the turn signals directly on the tail lamp. This is a very elegant solution. This is the way I have mine mounted. I have dropped my bike 30+ times and have never broken a turn signal.
Is the on-line manual the factory one. Chapter 3-40 has a couple of pages of discription. 3-27 is where is says to measure stuff. KEEP READING. If you do not have the FSM. You can find it on Benders Site:
The CLymer (?) manual also has several pages discribing the procedure.
Here is another write up: Good one with alot of pictures. http://www.maximum-suzuki.com/forums/index.php?topic=58680.msg892452#msg892452
The job is not stupid easy, but fairly straight forward. Are you chaning out the thrust washers. The spacer gave me a hard time as I could not remove it.
Yes you can lay the bike on its side tyo work on the clutch and keep the oil in it. Or you can drain it into a tub and reuse?
Sticky decomp lever if it's a kick sart? Next easy thing would be a missing vacuum plug on the carb, other than that it doesn't sound too good...
Yeah that's the manual I have. I'll look through it again. Thanks for the link, it'd help on what to look for. Didn't mention if the plates go in a certain way though.
I didn't get thrust washers as the girlfriend is who got the kit after I told her about the clutch. I guess I'll break her apart and see what's needed after I install the plates.
Don't break apart your girlfreind cause she didn't get you thrust washers
Before you go through the trouble, make sure that you have the clutch cable adjusted. The adjustment is very fine. Adjust it out so that there is a bit of slack in the cable when the lever is fully released. The cltuch should dragged then go for a test ride to see if it slips. I find that half a turn of the barrel adjsuter can be the difference between slipping and dragging.
On another slightly related note, if you are not getting much clutch drag or hard time finding neutral then you probably do not need new thrust washers.
You might check to see if your muffler is partially stopped up.
Does anyone have a stock muffler in good shape that they would like to sell? I have an old supertrapp currently but would like to get a stock muffler to send to kientech to be modified.
The plate is actually aluminum so the added weight is very minimal, I suppose I could have done the flush mount but I liked the sturdiness and the ability to keep the signals in the stock location. I do like how you did your's though.
One of my 350s did this. I too looked for the usual suspects without success. Eventuality I completely disassembled the carb (TM33). It turned out there was a bit of trash accumulated ABOVE the float needle seat restricting fuel.flow.
Yeah, Ive adjusted her a few times when I noticed the bike doesn't easily move in gear with the bike off and lever pulled. (Moves fine it on.) But Never had a problem with dragging or finding neutral. Cant even tell if she's sliiping unless you try to wheelie or if you've been in rush hour traffic. Someone told me to get stronger springs but figured if Im in there I'll do the plates too.
How do you know it's lean?
Do you have fuel filters? Could there be some debris in the fuel line, fuel valve or needle valve? Have you blasted carb cleaner through all the carb passages and jets or does it just look clean on the surface? Have you checked for water in the fuel? (drain the carb bowl into a white container and look for beads of water running along the bottom)
Are you sure the spark is ok? If I were to suspect something that seems like lean but isn't, I'd look at that before suspecting timing. Have you checked compression? A sticking valve or broken ring would lead to an air blast sound as air escaped past the bad seal.
The bike will only run when choke is out + massive backfiring, lean for sure. Carb was cleaned and re cleaned every part of it! valves where a tad loose but nothing to cause this. All fuel has been replaced with fresh stuff, there have been some good suggestions on here and I will be working on it more this weekend.
Ok, I have looked the answer to a pretty simple, probably too simple. I'm looking at two different 93 DR350s...one the more trail version that has been converted to street and one that is the "street" version with factory blinkers, ignition switch,speedo, etc.
Do either of these have "batteries" per se, or do all the electronics (very little obviously) run on these two bikes from the stator?
The trail version has some updates I like, but I'm wanting to add a elec speedo/odo and didnt' know if the stator would support such a thing.
Either one (different sellers) for $950. Thanks!!!
My first DR350 fitted with a set of Honda Baja twin headlights turning night into day...
Well, IF these bikes are the way Suzuki built them the street version has a 12 volt 200 watt DC charging system with regulator/rectifier a small 4AH battery. The off-road model has an 12-15 volt 70 watt AC generator with a small voltage regulator and no rectifier or battery. So, the street model will run your electronics. The offroad model would probably require some kind of rectifier to do so safely and doesn't have much excess capacity. FWIW, both engines will run without their "electrical" systems since the CDI is powered and triggered by it's own coils in the stator.