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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.
Pretty sure the first couple years were a single cable system. As far as I know it's a stock carb.
Thank you! I made a bad search engine term choice(s).
Originally Posted by jackanory View Post
I routed my fuel lines the way I saw it had been done in this thread.
Remember that we have alcohol fuels to deal with now. It vaporizes easier than gas and the higher the altitude the more risk of vapor lock (I see your in Idaho). I'm in Colorado and have had this issue on Hot days until I did away with the inline fuel filter. Your filter being so close to the HOT cylinder doesn't help either. Hope this helps.
I'm coming due for C&S replacement myself. Will that case saver work with a 16T sprocket (I had to lightly dremel the current one to fit a 15T in there)?
That is what I am talking about.
All years used a dual cable set up. Not jsut using a single cable but the cable attachment lobe thing is desinged to be a single cable set up.
The idle speed or throttle stop adjsutment is different too.
DR250 used a BST33 for the "S" and a TM31 for the dirt. The BST(CV) is exactly like the DR350's except for slight internal tweek to the jetting.
Thanks! I think I remember seeing that post - but I also seem to recall someone saying there was more than one case saver that fits our DR350s.
'90 and '91 model DR350S models had a single pull cable for sure. Don't know a thing about the 250 tho.
That one is OEM "98SE.
Thump! is correct - just checked the parts manual and the L and M models had the BST carb with the single pull cable and the straight idle adjust....
For further reference, the N and P model had dual cable and the same idle adjust setup, and the R/S/T models had the dual cable (different pulley) and the curved idle adjust setup.
No bike work today. Made wife's birthday present.
Alright so I'm getting set to sort out the electrical this weekend. My bike is a 1993 off road model, that someone converted to street legal, then someone else converted back to off road only. So it has had turn signals at some point, but now only has headlight and taillight (may or may not include brake light), but even they are disconnected.
Starts like this... 8 wires coming from the stator. These go to the CDI, but the only thing connected off the CDI is the on/off switch at the handlebar. There seems to be wiring for turn signals, headlight, taillight and brakelight still in place. But some cables are cut. There is a flasher relay too. Bike has a handlebar switch with high/lowbeam and turn signals. Then, there is a set of 4 cables that go into something under the seat. Then they go to something on the side of the bike. And my favorite part- two wires going to what appears to be a homemade battery.
Anyone want to give me some tips on what to look out for here? Does this look like someone swapped for a factory street model wiring, or is this an aftermarket kit? Or just homebrew? What's with the homemade battery, ever heard of that before? It's currently dead, but the bike does run. Just no lights were hooked up since I got the bike.
Looks like the CDI/ignition system is pretty much original. All the lights and turn signals will work on AC with an AC regulator. It looks like it might have a dry cell battery pack with a rectifier/regulator. Could have been a kit, can't tell. Maybe someone else has seen this set up. To charge the battery( and to make the horn work good) it needs that rectifier/regulator.
Hey DR dudes & dudettes, I'm hoping someone might measure the bolt spacing on the stock DR350 petcock. I've got an Acerbis tank on my DR, so no dice for me here. I want to replace the petcock on a 1974 Kawi G3SS and my intuition says, for some reason, that a DR/Raptor petcock could work. The G3SS bolt spacing is 34mm.
Hi, if you're talking about the old oem petcock with the vacuum pipe on it the spacing on centers looks like 3.5 cm(35mm) or 1.377 inches (approximately 1''3/8th) so as my venier or eyes aren't great 34mm could be spot on!
That's all homebrew. I assume the little box behind the "battery" is some kind of rectifier. In addition to the output for the CDI the S stator has three yellow wires for charging output (3 phase AC). The off-road stator has only two (single phase AC). Bet those are capacitors in that "battery". That's how I run my kickstart S model. No battery... Just some big caps.
Neat stuff! :>
My DR has a slight puff of smoke on start up and seems to be using oil at a concerning rate. 200+or- miles off road riding and its almost off the dip stick? The bike runs great any thoughts?
PS actual mileage on bike unknown previous owner didn't know. I've put 1000k miles on it since owning it. I think the bike has a 385 kit so its had motor work done.
To go from top to bottom on the dipstick is only a few ounces of oil. Personally I wouldn't worry about it - Just be sure to keep an eye on it.
No offence but are you sure you're checking it correctly - after it's just been run? If not, you could be overfilling it, which will cause it to use more oil.
Are there any leaks? It's hard to gauge how much you can lose to a leak - When the engine is hot and the oil is pumping it can sometimes drip out pretty quickly.
Once you've eliminated leaks or overfilling and if the consumption still bothers you, the fix might be as simple as a ring job or replacing valve-stem seals. My opinion: as long as it's running ok, keep your eye on it, top it up frequently and carry a small container of oil with you if you go any great distance.
That is a Baja Designs conversion kit from the mid 90"s. The same one I have on my 90 dirt model