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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.
Ah thanks dude, I'll put some play in the lever and hopefully that does the trick!
You're welcome and good luck. A lot of times it is the cable, they can stretch and also if they're sticky (not lubed) it can make it difficult to get the adjustment right. I hope that's what it is. All the bikes I've had, i've worn out clutch cables but never a clutch. But you can never tell what a PO may have done and I imagine a clutch could wear just from driving around with the cable incorrectly adjusted.
Burning oil on startup is usually valve seal related as oil seeps through the seals when sitting. If you start your bike up and it smokes when your ride or rev it up it's usually the rings.
I ride my DR to work and check the oil once a week. After I get home I let the bike sit for about two minutes, pull bike upright, remove dipstick, wipe and place back in hole without screwing back in. Pull out and check. Letting the bike sit for a couple minutes is important.
I've owned 6 or 7 DR350s, both the offroad and S models. All were bought used. Some were only parts donors but three of those were tagged and used as true dual sports with greater than 50% non-paved use. All-in-all around 40K miles total on those three, all w/o a passenger but with my 220 lbs on board. To the point, those bikes saw some hard use but never abuse (from me) and the OE clutch began slipping at some point on all three of those. On two of them, the two I rebuilt with Wiseco hi-compresson pistons, all that was required was stronger (actually shimmed OE) clutch springs. The one I have now (a '96 frame with a stock '93, low hours, off-road engine) recently got new plates and springs after a carburetor refresh that increased power output slightly and resulted in clutch slipping. All the bikes have been run on Rotella 15W40. I agree that cable adjustment is important on these bikes and that one needs to be sure there is some cable slack but I also believe the clutch is one of the early failure points in the 350 design. Search this and other DR350 forums and you find it's a frequent topic. In contrast my DR650 has 40K miles with no clutch problems whatsoever AND a lighter clutch pull. It simply has a bigger and better clutch design I think.
been playing this game for over 40 years & never used a NEEDLE to lube my cables
started out creating a funnel from duct tape & dribbling lube down the disconnected cable, 'til it emerged from the other/bottom end
then came the CABLE LUBER TOOL:
this tool is a small, very efficient link between your favorite aerosol lube can & either end of your cable
you have already identified the plastic sleeve & therefore the need for a plastic friendly lubricant
proper use of this tool assures COMPLETE application of lube
as mentioned above, a bit of FREE PLAY in the lever assures there is no exterior force on the clutch system, which is necessary for proper engagement
just an OLD man's 2¢ worth
Yes, a great tool, everyone should have in their toolbox - but TWENTY FREAKIN' DOLLARS!!! Aerostitch does it again! I bought a handful of them a couple of years ago in the dollar store and they are all over eBay/Amazon/Your favorite bicycle shop for $5 or $6
since i am not allowed to post pics, i simply used the AEROSTITCH link for information purposes
those guys have an awesome catalog & their pictures are quite clear
you are corrupt, i mean accurate, in your statement that they can be had elsewhere, for less & i should have added that to my post
hope it didn't mislead anyone to thinking there was only one source...
i keep one in my home, shop, barn & travel tool kits
along w/ some dry lube that is plastic compatible, which i also use on the zippers of the tent, hammock, jeep top, jackets.......
sure makes life easier
thx 4 the gig
It's likely that the carburetor overflowed. In order for this to happen, one or more of the following must be wrong with the carburetor while the petcock is either leaking or open: worn/damaged float needle (look for the tell-tale witness-line under magnification), dried up/cracked/damaged needle seat o-ring, dirt/deposits on the float needle seat, or a leaky float (i.e. there is fuel inside one/both of the floats).
Well I have been reading this thread pretty religiously for about 2-3 months now, and been searching the living piss out of it for details and info. I have probably read about 70% of the entire thread so I figured it was about due time that I put a post on here of my own as well as setup my email notification.
I picked up my 1990 DR350 dirt model from fellow inmate "Sned", thanks Jeff! Heres some pictures of my new ride...
First 2 picture are from the "for sale thread"
Next 2 are with my "fleet"
Currently bike is the way i bought it, I recently picked up a stator and rectifier/regulator off a 93 "S" Model and will upgrade that next winter. Tripmeter was the only thing not working on the bike, i got another cable in the mail from same guy I picked up stator from so that will be on soon. I am currently using my cell phone as my "GPS speedometer", I have an otterbox case and I hard mounted the "belt clip" to my handlebars, now my phone just clicks right onto my bars.
Picked up the bike about 2-3 weekends ago, been riding her everyday since, till yesterday when it was cold enough to start snowing again.
Hovering above the trails earlier today
You are going to need to get an S model CDI also, along with the S model wiring harness if you want to upgrade the electrical system. You also need a battery or capacitor in the system.
The dirt model doesn't have the mounting lugs built into the frame to mount the regulator/rectifier. You can use some large sheet metal screws instead. It also doesn't have the same mounts for the battery box, but there are a few options there, too.
My 99 dirt model DR has a complete S electrical system so I went through this. I also believe the ignition rotors are different between the two.
From my understanding from reading on here, the 90-93 have the same rotor and cdi. I plan to add some sort of battery or battery pack. Something small and light weight. I plan to fabricate my own box or mount plate. Worst case scenario I will look into getting a cdi off a s model. Which is why I am waiting till riding season is over so I don't have to rush putting it back together. I will try to take pictures and notes and add them to this thread and the stator thread I was reading.
The CDI on 90-93 S and off-road models will interchange with some caveats. I know this because I've done it. The caveats are that the off-road model CDI does not have circuitry for the safety interlocks on the side stand, neutral sending unit and clutch. It also does not provide a tachometer signal or neutral light signal. However, the engine will run just fine.
Thanks for chiming in Jim, seeing how I dont have/use any of the safety locks, neutral light, or tacho on my bike now, it will go un-noticed to me, I appreciate the assurance that she will still run fine. My main reason for swapping over it to be able to add on some better headlights and run some external devices.
These have got to go. Went for a quick spin today. Had taped off half the airbox opening and didn't get the cutting out that I experienced last week but still had some lean surging.
Got back home, shut the bike off, looked down at those filters and they were filled with nothing. nada. fuel vapor maybe but no liquid gas.
Hopefully the new jets and needles show up tomorrow. When I pull the carb (again!) I will remove those filters, maybe run a single one.
Other than this fuel delivery gremlin I am loving this little bike
If you haven't already done so, you should check the petcock screen inside the tank. Also, if you're running the OE "S" model vacuum operated petcock it might be suspect.
Interesting to know. I figured the dirt model wouldn't work. I guess I have a spare CDI then.
Has anyone seen this type of switch from Baja Designs? It's not simply a kill switch, it has 8 wires coming out of it. This one is bad... the switch stays lit up in both on and off positions, and when it is plugged into the harness none of the lights work. I need to get a new switch but I'm not sure exactly what I need to correctly replace this, and the baja designs website doesn't seem to show any switch like this one.
I'm not familiar with the switch BUT if it's lit up in both positions, I would guess it's wired up incorrectly, not necessarily bad. Contact BD and ask them for a wiring schematic.