Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.
Those Mirrors look really cool but WOW 50 bucks is a lot for a mirror.
The initial hit is steep but the RAM parts are pretty much indestructible and the mirror arm has a lifetime guarantee so the only part you would have to buy is the mirror itself. Add in the convenience of adjustment without tools and, in my case, the better rear visibility and its a lot easier to justify the cost.
I initially used a $5 junk yard mirror to be legal but couldn't see anything but my arm. I then tried a Ken Sean and it was better but I was still seeing mostly an arm. Installed the Doubletake and all is good now.
They are certainly pricey but you get what you pay for. I'm a cheap kid and even I am running (one of) these.
If you just need to be legal, throw on the cheapest folding mirrors you can find. If you want to upgrade a mirror, get this and skip the middle ground.
I guess I'm a mirror snob now.
I forgot I had photos of the Doubletake on my website:
I don't know what carbs you guys are working on, but on every carb I've worked on if you bend the float tab that rests on the needle, it makes quite a bit of difference in fuel level.
On this particular carb the float needle placement is quite a bit back from the end of the tab. So bending it doesn't do a whole lot unless you could bend a little step into it.
I will post a pic when I have it apart again.
I have NEVER had to make any significant adjustment to fuel level on dozens and dozens of bikes I have owned and worked on ... UNLESS some previous owner had fucked with it and I needed to undo their meddling. Even then, I've not attempted any float level adjustments until I've made absolutely certain the needle valve and seat (including any O-ring seal) are in good condition.
Agreed, but I,ve had a few that were "off" a little. The DR was good, but the Transalp and old "86 Reflex were off quiet a bit. My FZ1 was all screwed up. Someone had bought a jet kit for it and got the main jets in the choke/starter jet holes, and bent the floats. It started kinda funny. I just check the manual for the correct float heigth and make a little guage out of a plastic butter tub lid that will rest on the carb body/bowl parting line and just touches the float at the correct heigth. Cheap, free, and fool proof (maybe).
Thats a cool site BTW, there is a lot of good info about DR 350's nice job
Unless the fuel level is so high that it's draining into the overflow tube, or so low that it's below the jets, there is really no reason to adjust the level. As long as it's in that (large) range, the jets and float needle will accept the exact same amount of fuel. In other words, it will be very obvious when the fuel level needs an adjustment. And if the tab doesn't look clearly tampered with, you probably have another issue like the floats containing debris, the small spring in the float needle is stuck, etc.
In my experience, I've found that usually the fuel level being off won't cause anything but drastic issues.
sup guys, well i got curious about my popping on decel that bike has had since i got it..figured i'd invstigate. Grabbed my parts carb and found a 140 main, and a 37.5 pilot. ALso found an adjustable Needle (6 position) I pulled plug and looked at it just to see what it indicated...it indicated LEAN!! pretty white actually. thats not cool. SO...anyone got suggestions on what to do here? its all stock as far as i can tell. has the single hole in air box top, factory exhaust. I was only curious. i hate to start monkeying with it, cuz it runs great, but hey...i dont wanna burn the top off it either! Ughh..one of those sick feelings in my stomach now! Looks like ill have to get ahold of Mr Bender for a Carb kit too! haha.
PS, its the CV carb.
Here's my take on float level. I'm sure someone will correct me if I wrong, but it's worked for me for 40+ years. I like to set my float level at factory specs just as a known starting point so I have a known value before I start fooling around with jets for higher altitude applications. In the extremes of float level adjustments, to low of a fuel level will starve the jets and to high will over flow the bowl. Between those limits there is a small level of "adjustment". The higher the fuel level the more head pressure you have on the jets (pressure is dependent on the height of a liquid) and on top of that is air pressure (variable due to altitude) trying to push the fuel up through the jets into the carb throat. When the piston drops and atmospheric pressure pushes air through the carb and Mr. Bernoulli takes over and drops the pressure in the carb throat, the liquid head pressure and air pressure pushing on the fuel can now push fuel into the carb intake flow. I don't know how much difference a mm more or less of fuel level influences rich/lean mixtures (while you are running down a rocky jeep trail bouncing all over the place) has, But I still like knowing I've got my fuel level set in that sweet spot some where in the middle.
Here's a thread on float level symtoms. Unfortunately the link in the referenced post doesn't work anymore, but still interesting and there's lots of discussion on the web on this topic.... http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=110771
Lean popping on decel COULD simply be that your exhaust is too open or has a leak somewhere. My DR does it when the spark arrestor is out but not when it is in. I know what the issue is in the case of mine - I need to go up one size on the pilot jet. Yours may well be the same. Try a 40.
In most cases, an incorrect float height adjustment alone is not sufficient to cause overflowing.
Float height doesn't really make much difference on most slide carbs I've seen. This is not the case with CV carbs, where there are instances when if the float height is incorrect, the carbuertion will never be able to be gotten right. I routinely use float height as a tuning tool, typically when low rpm fueling across all openings is too rich and a smaller needle jet/emulsion tube or jet needle with a larger base diameter is not available.
If you've got a steady state dyno with at least the ability to read CO%, then that's correct.
If the carb is overflowing, it in my experience has only to do with a damaged float needle, damaged needle seat o-ring, damaged float pivot, dirty float seat, fuel having leaked inside the floats, etc., but never with adjustment.
I thought you were asserting that it won't cause any drastic issues.
Redoing the fork seals on my '95se and the old dust covers are metal topped. Most if the aftermarket ones are all rubber. advantages to the OEM metal ones? BTW I saw a dirt DR350 at Ricks Rondevous this.week and tried to swap my SE for it... He wouldnt listen to my ramblings.
Sent from my SPH-D700 using Tapatalk 2
I'm saying that the changes made within that range have never been worth the trouble of messing with it. It usually makes no difference so it is simply a step that I now skip. Not to mention that I have never once found the fuel level to be the cause of an issue.
what carb is it, the pumper or the cv?
CV...oops shoulda posted that eh? my bad
What is a good mid range chain and sprocket set? I think I want to gear my '91 at 14/43 for driving around this God forsaken flat land in North Dakota. Will probably get a 12 tooth for the front to swap in for weekend off road trips and what not.
I know that DID is a good brand for chain.. unsure what other brands are good. I don't want to spend an arm and a leg.. ideally under $120 for both sprockets and chain. If someone could link me to a good kit or components that would be great.
Is the 14/43 going to possibly be too highly geared for ATV trails?