DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. Frankdozer

    Frankdozer Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2012
    Oddometer:
    21
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    Bridgton, Maine
    So Alli, if I read this correctly the only part I just need to order is part # 13240-14D20 for my 1990 Dr350S. Does this part# 13240-14D20 come with enlarged jet? Also, I don't need to do anything else. No drilling?

  2. SloMo228

    SloMo228 World Class Cheapass

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    Sep 22, 2012
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    1,867
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    SE Michigan
    :ear I'm taking August off to ride around the West. The DR is looking like the likely transportation since I'm selling the GL1000 and the GL1500 probably won't be finished by then. My dad is coming with me for part of it on his GL1500 and scoffs at the idea of riding a 350 thumper cross-country, but I think the little DR can do it with no problem. But it would be nice to hear some tips for improving her high-speed manners, too.
  3. Wadester

    Wadester Rides a dirty bike

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    Jun 21, 2008
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    'Cruces
    Balancing the wheels, check.
    Seat Concepts seat, check.
    Michelin T63's, check.
    Windscreen, check. I've got the Brittania Composites Lynx - windshield in down position here:
    [​IMG]

    Several times I've ridden this bike 75 miles at highway speed so I could spend the day off in the mountains (which is why the shield is down), then did it again to get home that night. No problems. I also commute on it regularly, but that's just 20 minutes at speed.
  4. jackanory

    jackanory I am Jack's wasted life

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2007
    Oddometer:
    480
    Location:
    NH
    My 1990 DR350s has about 4k on it. Only about 75 miles of those are mine. I noticed right away it was popping out of gear occasionally. Neutral wasn't that hard to find.

    It really isn't all that difficult to check that bolt. A clutch holding tool (I got mine from RMATV, about $20) comes in really handy for the job. I also needed a gear puller (HF, about $30 for a set of 4) to get the kickstart lever off. Very straightforward process though and the peace of mind is priceless.
  5. mustangwagz

    mustangwagz Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 8, 2012
    Oddometer:
    247
    Location:
    Western PA
    Clutch holding tool, ill have to order one! ordered the Sidecase gasket yesterday, ill also have to goto hardware store or local dealer and get some copper squish washers for the oil line. i refuse to reuse those!! I aint having problems with it kicking outta gear at all. never have during the time ive owned it..but reading and seeing more about it just worries me.

    Does anyone else by chance have the extended aluminum clutch arm on their DR? mine came in the tub of goodies that came with mine so i put it on a while back. i was sitting in the garage pondering yesterday about it VS the factory arm...all it does is make the "pull" easier right guys?
  6. a1fa

    a1fa Throttle Jockey™

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    Nov 1, 2006
    Oddometer:
    13,907
    Location:
    Arkansas
    I mounted my Kientech exhaust last night, and it does not quite match up to the frame mount points. I can only secure it using 1 bolt.

    [​IMG]
  7. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Oct 22, 2007
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    Cave Creek, Arizona, United States
    It also reduces the amount by which the clutch plates are able to separate. It is for this reason that I've never wanted to install one (that, and I really don't have a problem with the force required by the OEM setup).

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  8. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Give Jesse a call. I do not believe he modifies the original mounting points at all when he modifies the OEM muffler.

    To me, it looks like you *might* be able to rotate the muffler up at the front and catch that mounting hole. Did you loosen the header pipe so you can adjustment placement there as well?

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  9. Anonawesome

    Anonawesome Scenic Rider

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    Feb 2, 2010
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    Location:
    Central OH
    Okay drooling, never seen that one before!
    Gimme the scoop, did you order the dr650 kit, how was the install, what happens to the stock gauges?
    Looks sweet obviously. :clap
  10. mustangwagz

    mustangwagz Been here awhile

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    Western PA
    NICE!! i thought the exact same thing...EXactly! Badass, thanks! imma pull that hog off there and toss it. I wandered about the same thing thinking itd cause premature failure. Glad someone else set me strait!
  11. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    DFW TX
    I did my drum bolt check with out any special tools. Air tools help, but are not necessary. I put on a glove and held the clutch drum with it while tightening the nut. You can also run a long drift/rod/screw driver through the back wheel sprocket and/or rotor, across the swing arm to keep the wheel from turning while tighting the nut. I've used this method to remove and replace front sprocket nuts on bigger bikes (KLR etc) that have the really tight (read 4' long cheater) nut holding the CS sprocket on. Just turn the wheel till you find a spot that the bar won't touch the spokes. You will need to put the bar above/below the swing arm to tighten/loosen. My gasket came off clean so a little silicone sealer did the trick and I use those crush washers over and over again, never had a problem. I know the books say replace them but I don't unless one is really screwed up or leaks. I've had to make them from copper or alloy sheet stock. I agree with Greg, that longer clutch arm is going to give you less clutch throw. If you have finding neutral issues, It's going to make it worse.
  12. Crenshaw

    Crenshaw Bum

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2012
    Oddometer:
    111
    Location:
    Salidaho

    It does make the pull easier but also makes it even more difficult to get the adjustment in it's sweet spot. On mine a half turn of the barrel adjuster is all it takes to go from nice and smooth to dragging clutch and clunky shifting. It seems like with a reasonably new and lubed cable the pull effort is pretty reasonable.
  13. Wadester

    Wadester Rides a dirty bike

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    Having done this to my DR, I can tell you that the muffler is unmodified - as far as mounts go - and should fit correctly. Of course, I sent in my muffler for mod and knew if fit before sending. And I put on Jesse's stainless header pipe, so I didn't fight with the original header and it's nasty seal/donut thing.

    I recall that the stock header is "undersize" and can go up into the muffler as far as you want - need to check install depth?
  14. Wadester

    Wadester Rides a dirty bike

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    Thanks! I used the generic Lynx kit -

    Since I couldn't slide the dash under the cast-in bar risers, I made an adapter to the stock triple mounts and trimmed the dash to fit:
    [​IMG]

    I used the stock instruments and ignition - and have room for a 276C above them (not yet mounted in this pic):
    [​IMG]
  15. a1fa

    a1fa Throttle Jockey™

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    Yay! I got it to fit by loosening everything and finagling it.. i just hope my header is sealed tight on the engine.. we will see.. once i re-jet the carb..

    now it's time to get this thing jetted.. need to call jesse and order the jet kit..
    or... someone here may know...

    312ft starting altitude, 3000ft highest point
    airbox lid cut open,
    Kientech exhaust,
    pumper carb..

    :D
  16. _CJ

    _CJ Retrogrouch

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    I do the same thing in stock-ish form now too, but the difference between this bike and my XS650 Scrambler at higher speeds is night and day. That bike is super stable, but with the DR I'm seriously concerned for my welfare.

    Last year a couple of guys rode out here from CT, rode a bunch of trails, then rode home. All on fairly stock DR350's. :eek1 I just can't imagine that kind of time slabbing it on the DR, but six plus hours on dirt roads and such is as good as it gets for me. So it's not position on the bike or anything, more or less just the instability of the bike at high speeds with cross winds, etc.

    Will a windscreen straighten the bike up, and help it fly right? Do I need to adjust the bike for my, ummm, prosperous physique?

    :ear
  17. thump!

    thump! Adventurer

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    Jan 16, 2007
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    1,710
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    Northeast Tennessee
    A more "beakish" fender helps... Less of a sail. Mine has a RM250 fender that works well. Looks pretty much the same as a DR650 fender.
  18. shearboy2004

    shearboy2004 KIWIINUSA

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2007
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Ft Collins ,Colorado


    Mine was a right SOB at one time , felt like it wanted to throw me to the ground at speed ! I fixed that by removing the tire iron from inside the tire ! lol


    <a href="http://s141.photobucket.com/user/kiwiinusa/media/DSC00928.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r65/kiwiinusa/DSC00928.jpg~original" border="0" alt=" photo DSC00928.jpg"/></a>[​IMG]

    Honestly there are many things that can upset a bike at speed , I would check wheel alignment , wheel balance, and try to set up the suspension sag properly . Having correct rear spring for your weight can change a bikes handling night and day same with the front .
    Mine is sorted now and if it could go 100 mph I would .:lol3
  19. Wadester

    Wadester Rides a dirty bike

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    Hmm. I recall riding my DR in box-stock condition 300 miles round trip once. Swore I would never do that again - but because of the seat more than anything. Also, hanging onto the bars at highway speed got old fast. I don't recall significant stability problems with the stock bike/Dunlop tires.

    Definitely no issues currently - and I ride in NM spring winds, which can be 40+mph most any time (and they are crosswinds on my commute). No problem with keeping the bike on target, but it's a light little thing and does move around more than a big bike.

    As a note, I'm 5'9" 225lbs with a 33" inseam.
  20. shootmymime

    shootmymime Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2012
    Oddometer:
    24
    Hey again guys,

    so along with my 350 ive been looking at refinishing a few parts but media blasting and repainting. (sand and glass)

    if you guys are up for it i can blast your stuff too. just pay for shipping both ways plus a few extra bucks a box. ill spray with a coat of primer so it doesn't rust or pit b4 it gets back to you.

    ps ive spent countless hours behind the cabinet doing my own parts for other bikes as well as my mustang parts.

    here is a example of the exact cabinet i have.
    http://www.toolking.com/buffalo-sbc...&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CIT9sfOHqLcCFeZ_QgodyBMAkw