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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.
Armstrong County, bout hour or so NE of pittsburgh. I been through "84" a time or 2.
I purchase the OEM Suzuki levers. They are not much more than the aftermarket units and I know they will fit and function perfectly. I've not had to replace the clutch perch nor the front brake master cylinder perch, only levers. With handguards, I've fallen a bunch of times with zero damage to the levers. All the same, I do carry a spare of each in my tool roll.
FYI, I purchase almost all my OEM parts from RockyMountainATVMC. I have also used other providers with great success. There is only one place I have used with which I will no longer conduct a simple business transaction: http://www.partzilla.com/
I'm aware, but thanks.
I ordered an MSR AOF Clutch Perch And Lever from Amazon recently and just put it on my bike a few days ago. It is significantly nicer than the stock clutch lever and perch.
The lever runs in a little bearing which gives me lots of fine control and makes my clutch feel buttery smooth (even though it's knackered all to heck and back). The perch clamps down on a plastic ring that fits around your bars. I'm not sure if this is to allow the same perch fit on oversized bars (1 1/8") or if it allows the perch to rotate around the bar instead of snapping the lever when your bike decides to take a dirt nap.
The adjustment knob on the MSR clutch is big and easily worked with gloves on. Also, the knob locks in place by itself, so you don't have to loosen the locking ring, turn the darn barrel adjuster, and tighten the locking ring to adjust your cable play. All you do is turn the adjusting knob, and *click*, it stays where you left it.
There's also a little screw that seems to adjust some other facet of clutch lever operation, but I'm not sure what it's for. I guess it could be used to prevent the lever from opening all the way, in case you have short fingers and can't stretch 'em far enough to grab the lever.
I must say, for the price ($25) I couldn't be happier with this product. The smoothness of the lever is what will make me buy this product again for my next bike, it's just that nice. It is well made and uses standard Honda CR style levers, so all sorts of replacements (including customizable) levers exist on the marketplace. The only downside is that this clutch perch does not include a threaded hole to mount your side view mirrors in. You'll have to either live without, get a standalone mirror&perch, or run bar-end mirrors.
Will it fit behind handguards? If so, I'll buy it even if I don't need it. Sounds like a good product.
These are the Western Power Sports Part#'s I used:
70-0401 clutch lever
70-0408 brake lever
I have a '95 350SE.
Hi newb here.
I did a whack of searching on the internet with no luck so I' m sending this question to you experts.
I have a '96 DR Electric and I bought the bike with a K270 4.5-18. I just replaced it with a 4.6-18 and I was amazed at how much narrower it is than the 4.5 (looks like a bicycle tire in comparison and the knobbies are smaller so less rubber on the road).
What was the stock tire size (in imperial) on my bike and what changes will occur by using the 4.6 versus the 4.5? Should I worry that the 4.6 only has 4 plies versus the 4.5's 6 (I do mostly fire/logging road riding with some pavement).
Thanks folks for helping this newb out.
The OEM rear tire was 110/100x18. 110mm is 4.33" so your 4.5 was pretty close. Tire manufacturers vary a bit in the way they size their products so its no surprise that one manufacturer's 4.6 appears smaller than another's 4.5. That difference alone will not be noticeable although other factors (cross-section shape, tread design, rubber compound) might be. FWIW, I run 120/80 or 120/90 on the rear of mine.
In general wider tires look cool but don't necessarily provide more traction (again tread design and compound is probably more important) and they resist turning more than narrow ones.
OK!! I cant stop procrastinating, So how much of a difference will the Pumper carb conversion really make??
Help me make the decision, maybe a comparison, like....felt like going from a 250 to 350 or from the 350 to a drz400 or at least 1/2 that step!
You'll probably get different opinions on this but I've had 7 DR350s and I have run both carbs on the same bike multiple times. IMHO, the TM33 improves throttle response (i.e. roll on wheelies become possible) and the bike just feels more "alert". However, the motor does NOT make any more power when spun up. It just makes it quicker.
In my experience for that improved throttle reponse you give up about 10 mpg (60ish down to 50ish) and the bike becomes more sensitive to altitude changes possibly requiring rejetting for big changes. Mine, jetted cleanly for 3000 ft above sea level, would not run without rich fouling the plug above 10,000 ft. I had to rejet sitting in the dirt at Silverton, CO. Not fun particularly since changing the needle clip on a TM requires disassembly and removal of the bell crank and shaft.
All that said I enjoy the bike more with the TM33 installed BUT if I ever take it to high altitude again, it will be wearing a BST33.
What he said.
I replaced my worn pumper with a new pumper on my dirt bike and that made a world of difference. Then I switched to the CV carb and I love it all the more. I love the mileage (= range) it gives me out here in the western desert states and that I do not have to worry about elevation changes.
Power-wise, they both felt the same to me. The CV carb is a tiny bit more "asleep". But, it is something I immediately got used to and don't mind at all.
But, don't listen to me. There are a gillion questions about moving from a CV to a pumper (= popular) and almost no questions about moving from a pumper to a CV (= I am the odd-ball) :> :> :>
Am I missing something, or is it nearly impossible to put a screwdriver to the mixture screw on an electric start model because of the starter motor? Will a Kientech extended screw clear the starter?
No your not missing anything and just the extended screw just leave enough room to access the screw.
Typos and nonsensical words courtesy of fat fingers on a make believe keyboard.
Hey Thump! thanks for the reply.
So my logic tells me that a 4.6 should be wider than the 4.5, but with the Kenda that is not the case, whatsup with that? (from their web site: 4.5 = 27mm, 4.6 = 25.7mm).
I'm thinking the smaller tire will allow my little DR will move around faster, and turn in faster but may wear faster (less rubber on the road) and provide less traction. Otherwise I should be good.
I'm useing the 5.10 X 18 K270 rear and it is quiet a bit larger than the 4.50, and the knobs are a lot bigger also.
Wow that's at the other extreme to what I just put on. So how does the little DR powerplant and basic handling work?
Works good. I mostly ride it on jeep trails in the Rocky's. "98se with ~ 2000 miles, stock carb. stock gearing and suspension. Suspension's good for my style. Can't complain. Could be 50lbs lighter , except for that, I'm happy.
Yet ANOTHER good reason for me to start exercising, I could have a faster bike and be able to pick up my bike when if falls asleep
That's good to hear. That's the tire I was considering putting on my 99, but I wasn't planning to go that big.
We have a lot of sand here in MI, might be nice to have a pseudo-big wheel bike.