DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. mustangwagz

    mustangwagz Been here awhile

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    Ok guys, HOW the hell do ya tell which key ya got? Im trying to buy/find a spare key to have cut, my problem is...there's about 4 different versions according to parts sites...so HOW the HELL do i figure out which verison i got? order one of each till i find the right kind? LOL Any help would be great. FWIW, my key has NO plastic on it.
  2. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    I got a key for my steering lock from this guy.... http://www.motorcyclekeys.com/ . Talked to him on the phone. He seemed to know what he was doing.
  3. AST236

    AST236 Long timer

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    Thank you, sir. That's what I thought. I now hope that it's a pumper in use.

    The bike is 500 miles away and an inmate local to the seller was generous enough to look at it for me and shoot these pics. :D
  4. mustangwagz

    mustangwagz Been here awhile

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    current key says "SU-12" on it. i may need to contact him.
  5. Ferdinand

    Ferdinand Ride The Wind ForeverFree

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    Can we see a pic of the seat concepts cover in blue, I just got mine in black I didn't know you could get blue or I might have got blue instead.
  6. mwilliamshs

    mwilliamshs Been here awhile

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    only the stitching is in blue. the cover is still black. seen it up close in recent pics.

    [​IMG]

    here ya go^
  7. fossriver

    fossriver Adventurer

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    Here is a close up of the Seat Concepts saddle

    [​IMG]
  8. mwilliamshs

    mwilliamshs Been here awhile

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    so why do your sidecovers have 2 fasteners? have i just never noticed this on other dr's? I know both my 99 350se and my 93 250s have only one screw per side but yours has twice as many?!

    and I've been toying with the idea of using tamper-resistant screws in the side covers and battery box locations. I live in a very urban area (especially for Arkansaw) and park my bike overnight at a hospital and on a college campus a lot. Just don't want to walk out one pre-dawn morning and find my side covers torn off by vandals or my battery missing. Anybody else tried this? I've found screws at McMaster Carr somewhat reasonable ($5.46 for 10) but they're bevel-headed flat-faced screws that use an 82* bevel and the corresponding washers (which are a big part of the security feature) are $12.27/each?! I've been specifically looking at pin-torx fasteners but need to put some more time into it.

    EDIT: looks like FMW fasteners in Houston, TX will be getting my business for this. Fastenal is my preferred local vendor but they've got squat in this area so I'll order. Free shipping sure helps!! FMW carries button head and flat faced bevel headed screws. Both very reasonable but I can't find specifics for the beveled heads so I'll call them tomorrow about washers and if nothing works easily/cheaply I'll go with the button heads, as they're tougher to grab with pliers than the flats without corresponding washers, but flats WITH washers are very tough to defeat without a power tool or the correct bit. I know the bits are available inexpensively at auto parts stores nowadays (thanks mostly to MAF sensors) but I still like the idea of these screws better than ordinary phillips or hex bolts and since I have to purchase screws anyway (bike came without side covers or the screws to retain them) I might as well spend a little more once and buy some peace-of-mind.
  9. mwilliamshs

    mwilliamshs Been here awhile

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    I don't have (never have had) the key to my fork lock. You saying you got a blank from John @ motorcyclekeys or that he can supply keys in a ready-to-use state? that'd be AWESOME. :ear
  10. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    He sent me the blanks and I took them to a local lock smith shop to get them cut. The first place I went to just scratched his head and said he couldn't do it. Not all lock smiths are created equal. The next one said no problem. He put the key in the lock and turned it back and forth, said the tumblers made a mark on the key blank (i couldn't see it :huh) and with a small file, he had it done in a few minutes. Charged me $20. :D
  11. a1fa

    a1fa Throttle Jockey™

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    Sweet. I need to do the same thing.
  12. fossriver

    fossriver Adventurer

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    Those are the Maier side panels. https://www.maier-mfg.com/catalog/suzuki-drs250-drs350-side-panels They don't come with tab that fits inside the seat pan, so you get to drill two holes in each side. The second bolt attaches to the frame where there is a grommet and hole (on my SE). They came with hardware that I got frustrated by, so I just used auto body clips with the nut attached. I imagine that Torx bolts might be enough to deter most thieves.
  13. mwilliamshs

    mwilliamshs Been here awhile

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    Makes sense! Kinda lame of Maier but I'd probly use the clip nuts too or even better IMO a well nut that fit snugly in the grommet. Couple turns to tighten, couple turns to loosen, nothing to lose, nothing to rattle. Harley taught me a few things worth knowing.
  14. fossriver

    fossriver Adventurer

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    Thanks, that sounds like a better long term solution. One bolt is a m6 and the other is 1/4" that's reason enough to keep fiddling. Keeping everything metric cuts down on the tools I need on me.
  15. LoopGaroo

    LoopGaroo Been here awhile

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    I just rebuilt my carb and adjusted my valves for the first time. I'm still new to this bike... This is a dirt model with the pumper carb.

    I'm having starting problems. The bike will start after about 15 kicks, but only with the choke OFF, if I pull the choke the bike will shudder and die.

    I pulled the carb out and took a look at the choke lever, it looks fine, it was having trouble staying out so I wrapped a zip tie around the boot it supply it with more tension. It seems to function better now in that regard, but i can't figure out why it's not increasing the rpms when I pull the choke out!

    Another little problem I'm having is that I can't figure out if the carb vent lines connect to anything else or if they just vent back towards the shock. Maybe these issues are connected?

    On a positive note, the bike wouldn't start cold unless you used the choke before, so at least that has improved! :evil
  16. NH Mudder

    NH Mudder Adventurer

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    Hey all, I need some help.

    Picked up a 1997 dr350se a while back, only for 400 bucks. Bought it as a non-runner, got it home, cleaned out the carb, installed a new battery, and new Acerbis tank. Also along the way I had to install all new top end gaskets. Uncle works at a machine shop so he did the valves, and also honed the cylinder out for me while I had it apart.

    My problem now is the bike will only start on full choke. I can rev it up somewhat on full choke, but as soon as I let off the throttle it will die right away. Choke in, dies straight off. I already previously cleaned out the carb real good, threw in a new needle and replaced a few o-rings. It has the stock carb, stock airbox and stock exhaust/muffler set up. Also to note, I do have the vent line from the carb capped off with the new tank set up. What should my next step be?

    I will throw some pictures up later as soon as I figured this new phone out to show what I'm working with. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  17. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    I think your bike came stock with a BST33 CV carb. The TM33 pumper carb came on the dirt models. You should cap off the vacume port on the carb for the diaphram petcock, (might be what you meant) but not the float bowl vent. Look up "T" mod. Since it needs the "choke", it's lean. Look for intake leaks and stopped up jets.
  18. mwilliamshs

    mwilliamshs Been here awhile

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    ^all true^ In my experience the bike SHOULD need the choke for a cold start or you'll be too rich and shouldn't need it to run or you'll be too lean. Choke to start and warm up if it's chilly, then run without. Jetting a carb can be a challenge the first couple times or after an intake/exhaust mod but once you get it dialed it is SOOO worth it.
  19. NH Mudder

    NH Mudder Adventurer

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    Thanks for the quick response. You were right it is a BST33. [​IMG]
    I looked up the T-vent mod like you said. The picture I posted above was from that thread, the cap I have on is capped off just like in the picture above on the right side of the carb, but to the left where the T-vent mod is, I just have nothing on that port.

    Looks like I'll be tearing into the carb again to check those jets.
  20. mustangwagz

    mustangwagz Been here awhile

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    ok, so like a few pages back...(SOMEHWERE?!?!) i seen something about someone running a 5.10x18 Kenda K270 on the back of the bike, can someone verify that this will work on the DR350? cuz i found one CHEAP, brand new, and if it'll fit FOR SURE ill go buy it in the morning. lol just curious though.

    Someone oughta make a spec sheet for what WILL and WONT fit. Plugs, Tires, Tubes, ETc Etc, probably save us all from typing out shit when someone like me (although im kinda dumb..) asks a repetitive question. thanks boys!

    -Herp Derpington-....