DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. mfleck

    mfleck Fleckster

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    Nope many do not use the decomp on the dr 350 kickers resulting in cracked cases

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 4
  2. ceke

    ceke Been here awhile

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    I'm a big guy at 250lbs and the stock seat was ok for a couple hours in the saddle, not much more. I did about 4 hours yesterday with a short break every hour or so and I could have done another couple hours before the seat concepts seat started to bother me, the extra width is a big improvement for me, well worth the money.
  3. ceke

    ceke Been here awhile

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    I'm returning to dual sports so probably don't have a qualified opinion on the Kenda's. I've been riding 60% gravel/hard pack dirt/rocks, 20% soft dirt, 20% road, and find the k270's work fine in all places but I'm a pretty relaxed rider. I did go with the 5.10 on the rear and there is about 15mm of clearance with the swing arm on the right side, might even be rubbing under load. I'll probably go the next size down when I replace it just for the extra room for mud:

    [​IMG]

    The tank panniers are these ATV ones.
  4. High Country Herb

    High Country Herb Adventure Connoiseur

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    Wow. I had no idea they were so fragile. I disconnected the decompression lever 10 years ago on my XL600, and kicked it hard ever since. Maybe someone who has trouble tuning would be better served by an XL350?

    With that in mind, I don't think I'll add a backup kick starter to the DR. I should probably upgrade the skid plate too, huh?
  5. tkent02

    tkent02 Long timer

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    No, the fucking KLR weighs 200 lbs more.
  6. tkent02

    tkent02 Long timer

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    Many do not know how to use it and thus kick forever and ever, instead of once...
  7. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    Had a "84 XL350. Good bike, but heavy and 2 carbs on a single cyl bike :huh... big PITA. It had the cable opperated semi auto decomp hooked to the kicker. Seemed to work ok. If you have an e-start DR350, you already have auto decomp, built into the cam. Adding a kick start will work fine.
  8. ceke

    ceke Been here awhile

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    My 96 starts on the first kick every time, choke when cold and hold about 1/2 throttle when hot, works every time.
  9. mrchristian

    mrchristian Been here awhile

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    Perfect! Just ordered one. I don't want a rear rack. I will probably use it as a full-on dirt bike at some point (singletrack, sand washes and all that) and don't want to compromise it.

    It looks like chrome...from what I understand, chrome is a poor (comparatively) conductor of heat, but I work in advertising so what do I know.
  10. mfleck

    mfleck Fleckster

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    Well I wanted a new valve seat but it was eaier to buy a block of 4 rebuild kits off ebay than wait two weeks for a manufacteror one that cost more than the 4 pack. So in short guys I have exra ring and float valve assemblies incase anyone bent theirs prying it loose like I did. Darn 20 year old parts :)

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 4
  11. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Yep, I use them with my giant loop. fits the stock muffler nicely :>

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  12. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Agreed. Once I got my 1993 model properly sorted and *learned* how to kick start it, it was no problem at all. Quick and easy.

    When I first bought my 1999 SE model, I liked everything about it except the electric start. But, I've now gotten used the electric start (though I still plan on adding kick start to it). :> :> :>

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  13. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Personally, I don't think the DR350 kick start is fragile. Everything can be broken. Suzuki fit a decompression mechanism for a reason and if people think they don't need to use it and break stuff, I hardly blame that on Suzuki. Same goes for people who never want to use the clutch lever. Just jam it in gear and go. Please don't complain to me when the shift dogs wear out, etc.

    I ride a lot of rocks and I fully appreciate my larger skid plate :>

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  14. gladesteen

    gladesteen Padawan

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    Hi guys,

    I've done the search and found the bulb for turn signal is compatible with the 'box store' 1057 bulbs, but i cannot find the bulbs for indicators. Smashed my right side turn signal on a dirt nap :puke1

    My tach lights are also out and i'd like to replace. Can someone please let me know the bulb part # at my local autozone, advance, etc..


    Thanks!
    Mark
  15. Deftone1

    Deftone1 Been here awhile

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    Hello,

    My name is Mark, I saw no where for noobs to intro themselves so I might as well do it here as this thread got me to register.

    Just added a '91 DR350S (cali model) to the stable. Bone stock, 3500miles, $600. Very good condition other than an extremely rusty tank. I've cleaned the carb, bought a scatch n dent tank from Clarke & a raptor petcock.

    Been wanting a DS for a while, very interested in Adventure Touring & Dual Sport rides. I already have a pretty gnarly dirt bike, (KTM 200EXC) so I wanted something more for fire roads and dual sport exploring. I really like the bagged, well equipped style of DS as opposed to the stripped down MX ready versions.

    I'm planning on jetting, airbox mod and probably a DG slip on. Also some saddle and tank bags and maybe a headlight upgrade. Looking for a good 50/50 tire now.

    Besides being a complete MC junkie, I'm an avid track day rider (Sears Point on Friday) and I also commute daily (FZ1 or Super Duke) My wife and I like to dirt bike as well as camping and shooting.

    I'm a former Machinist and currently a Manufacturing Engineer working in the Aerospace industry.

    I'll work on some pics....
  16. gladesteen

    gladesteen Padawan

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    Hi mark,

    Welcome aboard.
    I'm running the Kenda 270's up front and back (as many others are also).Very good tire and inexpensive. Can be found on www.rockymountainatv.com for around $65 or less. Go with the 510 on rear. It fits and you will like the extra width.

    -Mark
  17. Deftone1

    Deftone1 Been here awhile

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    Nice. Thanks Bud.
  18. tominboise

    tominboise Long timer

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    THank you for the list. I am looking at the Kenda Tuff tubes. Would 100/100X18 be appropriate for the rear? Or 110-120/100X18? They do list the 80/100X21 for the front.
  19. scharfg

    scharfg Been here awhile

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    I have a '96 DR350SE with 14000 miles and I'm riding with bigger bikes on the HWY loaded for a multi day ride and was wondering if I'm hurting the engine by running it at about 60 miles/hr on the HWY for ~500 miles/day? I have a stock rear sprocket and a 14 tooth up front (15 is stock).

    I went over the weigh scales with a full Acerbis tank of fuel (4.2 gal) and my multi day trip gear, the bike with that gear weighed 440lbs. I weigh about 200lbs on top of that.

    I'm running the narrower 4.6x18 Kenda K270 rear tire.

    I've been impressed with the engine's power on the HWY as I could sustain the 60 mph in 6th gear up a long steep HWY hill.

    My fuel economy on the HWY is about the same as the loaded KLR 650 I was riding with so I was worried I may be running the motor too hard and causing it harm (I have the pumper carb installed, 1/2 of the air box open with a No Toil air filter and the stock needle). The bike does cough and fart a bit at the top end of the rpm range under load so I have to work on the air to fuel mixture still (ie: cover off more/less of the air box top).

    One other question: I installed the 4.6x18 kenda rear tire and it was very skinny versus the previous 4.5x18. If I go back to the 4.5x18 what sort of performance changes might I find (ie: will I have less power with the wider tire, will I get different gas milage, or longer tire wear etc)? I know the 4.5 is a 6 ply versus the 4 ply of the 4.6 so the 4.5 will be heavier as well.

    I was at a Horizons Unlimited meeting last weekend and I started to think about getting a more powerful bike for the multi day trips I do which has lots of HWY pavement riding to get to the good dirt. There is not much to choose from out there in the smaller/lighter platform which I want given my weak off road skills. I had a KLR before but I found it too heavy and it went to sleep very easily thus the lighter DR. I was thinking about the DRZ or the DR650, but the DRZ seems to be more dirt orientated (I don't have a problem running the DR350 on the HWY for long periods from a comfort point of view) and the 650 is a bigger heavier bike and neither of them have the 6th gear like the smaller 350. If I'm not doing any damage to the 350 with my high speed HWY riding then I might just stick with the 350.

    Thanks very much.
  20. slartidbartfast

    slartidbartfast Love those blue pipes

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    I found that 1/4 turn either way on the idle mixture screw made a huge difference to how easy the bike starts. Also perhaps the starting drill is important.

    For my DR - Cold:
    Fuel on, choke knob fully out, compression release in, full throttle and three or four good kicks just to get things moving. Then turn engine slowly with kicker until comp release just pops out. Ignition on, two twists of the throttle to pump a little fuel and then kick without touching the throttle at all. This will usually get a stone-cold bike started with 1 or 2 kicks. If it doesn't start in 3 kicks then repeat the process.

    For my DR - hot (engine that has been off for no more than a few minutes): Fuel on, compression release in and turn till it pops out. One good kick with 1/4 throttle and it will usually start first time.

    In-between heat, after the bike has been sitting for fifteen or more minutes or if it stalls when partly warmed up become a little more tricky, but usually a drill similar to cold start except with the choke knob part way out (there should be a detent there) works well. Sometimes no need for the 'blowing it out' kicks or two twists.

    Note FWIW that my bike has a Vortex air box and 435cc big-bore. All of the above seemed to work for both the CV and pumper carbs.