DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. thump!

    thump! Adventurer

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    Well, that's the point isn't it. Off idle transition on the stock bike is jerky. If you ride it like a motocross bike you'd never notice. If you ride it slow in rocks and roots (i.e. eastern mountains), it's hard to manage. I rode the same bike after installation of a power commander or the like plus an aftermarket pipe. Much better... for only $800 or $900!!!

    OTOH, an old-school KLX250 was far easier to make "perfect" for my kind of riding with only minor carb tuning. Plus, if you're so inclined, you can bump the Kaw to 300cc with OEM KLX300 parts.
  2. FireDog45

    FireDog45 Mid-life crisis sufferer

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  3. Thanantos

    Thanantos Ride hard.

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    Yep, nice article.
  4. tkent02

    tkent02 Long timer

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    Yeah, right about the grins, but but they are wrong about the gas mileage.

    Mine is always better than that.
  5. DR350seKING

    DR350seKING Adventurer

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  6. tkent02

    tkent02 Long timer

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    Like the other guy said, that looks too rich already. Completely black is completely rich. What makes you think it's running too hot?

    For the other guy, the spark plug is supposed to look dry unless the engine is flooded or burning oil.
  7. veriest1

    veriest1 Grand NOOBlet

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    I think I'm going to redo my brake light/license plate setup. Do the DR350 dirt models have the same tail light lense as a DR650?

    And does anyone have one they want to get rid of?

    Sent from my HTC using magic.
  8. plugeye

    plugeye mc caregiver

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    recording the mpg is a must imo, its a good indicator of the running condition & indicator when service/ repair is necessary.

    oil level should be checked very often. check it after riding when hot & add if needed to near top level.

    if your mpg is between 55-70 for street (non-hwy) riding, its in the normal range.

  9. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    The author is British. British Gallons are larger than US gallons (1.20095 UK gallons = 1 US gallon). I am *assuming* he is reporting UK MPG rather than US MPG. His 45 MPG in the UK is much closer to 37.5 MPG in the USA.

    I really can't tell from the photos which carburetor is installed. Suffice to say, it is possible to jet any DR350 carburetor so rich that 37.5 MPG (and lower) MPG is achievable with little effort.

    Mine does much, much, much better using the CV carb and 100% stock jetting.

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  10. yourdrunkdad

    yourdrunkdad I just wanna ride!!

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    Shoot, wrong thread. Sorry guys. But here is a plug reading chart since you guys are talking about it. Notice the the one that says best.

    [​IMG]
  11. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Do you mean wire up 2 LEDs for the dash indicator light? There is not much room to do that in the dash. When a single dash indicator light is provided by the factory, I think the diode solution is the simplest and best way to maintain that original functionality (when moving to LED turn signals).

    BTW, a few months ago I replaced all of the incandescent dash indicator lights with LED indicator lights. I am very pleased with the results.

    http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/subminiature-bulbs/74-led-bulb-1-smd-led-wedge-base/227/

    I ordered 3 of the "cool white" for gauge illumination.
    I ordered 1 of the "blue" for high beam illumination.
    I ordered 2 of the "green" for neutral and turn signal illumination.

    If the bulbs do not work the first time you insert them, turn them around in the socket. Positive must go to positive and negative must go to negative. $2.49 is a pretty good price...and a lot cheaper than sourcing OEM incandescent bulbs from Suzuki.

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  12. AC909

    AC909 Great Job!

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    Does anyone know what the stock fork height setting is? Meaning where the fork tubes clamp into the tripple tree. I normally just flush them up at the top but my Suzuki service manual shows them about an inch down. They never listed an exact measurement, only showed a picture. Thanks
  13. thump!

    thump! Adventurer

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    Yep, I typically see 50-55 mpg jetted slightly fat with a TM33. When I had the BST33 on it, I routinely got 60+ and even saw 70 a few times. Those are US gallons BTW.
  14. 2old2Bbold

    2old2Bbold was 2bold2getold

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    [​IMG]

    I got my "98SE with ~800 miles on it. I'm pretty sure that's the way they came from the dealer. Everything else was pretty much stock. Don't know if they were shipped that way and the dealer was supposed to change it or not, but it feels fine to me.
  15. AC909

    AC909 Great Job!

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    ^Thanks for the info and picture. I will go ahead and slide my tubes up a bit.
  16. veriest1

    veriest1 Grand NOOBlet

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    This is basically what I plan to do when I build my Vaportech dash except wire LED's in line and put them across the top.

    Pretty simple really.



    Sent from my HTC using magic.
  17. The Jester

    The Jester Been here awhile

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    I posted last month after I blew the bike during a 3 day ISDE centennial rally.

    I had 2 problems: the first was the gearbox jumping down gears, the second was a loss of compression.

    In between other jobs and delayed by financial constraints and the availability of used parts, I have been working through the problems.

    [​IMG]

    The loss of compression was down to a blown piston but the reason took a bit longer to get to the bottom of. It turns out I have a DR250 head which has smaller valves and a smaller combustion chamber, increasing the compression ratio. The bike also had a 3mm oversize wiseco piston which has a raised top to increase the compression. TBH I am surprised that the raised piston and smaller chamber didn't cause piston / valve contact. The bike certainly had enormous amounts of compression which was causing pre-ignition hence the blown piston. I tracked down a standard barrel and piston for not too much ££ and set about re-assembling, replacing worn cam chain tensioner blades and grinding in the valves as I went. I noticed that the new base gasket is .5 mm thicker than the old one so there is another source of raised compression which may have contributed to the piston's demise.


    I think I really got lucky with the gearbox as I could have lost the whole engine.

    [​IMG]

    One of the screws retaining the shift drum was loose while the other was missing. This had allowed the shift pawl to jump one tooth on the shift drum gear. This meant the return spring was forcing the gearbox down a gear rather than returning the shift drum to the middle. I have reset the shift pawl but you can see the missing screw under the clutch.

    After a bit of fishing around with a long cable tie I managed to sweep the missing screw out from under the oil pick-up until I could grab it with some long nosed pliers. A bit mangled but fortunately nothing else seems damaged. I also noticed that the nut securing the clutch hub was only finger tight once I had flattened out the lock washer.

    [​IMG]

    The shift drum screws are now thread locked in position and I should have the rest of the bike back together tomorrow. I'm pretty hopeful that, without the extra compression from the wiseco piston, it will all work fine.
  18. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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  19. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Jester-
    You still got the 250 head?
    Good save. You don't unusually see that particular shift bolt falling out.
  20. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    The factory service manual shows it about that far down, but the text says to Align marked line on fork with the top edge of the top triple. On my forks there was only one scribed line and that is the one at the very top right below the cap. I had mine at the very top. Though I think lower is better.