DR350 Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by leonphelps, May 16, 2007.

  1. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    I broke the main batteries negative terminal. Seems common as I have repaired this on my friends DR350 as well. Looks ok but it is cracked and gives intermittent battery grounding connections.

    My tach too was wacked when this was happening. Very noticeable erratic swings in the tach needle. Only did this for a short ride before I figured it out and fixed it.
  2. Askor200

    Askor200 Adventurer

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    Maybe the tach/gearing calculator isnt working for your bike because the final drive ratios are different(?) between the early years and the later years(?) not too sure about that but it may be the problem
  3. thump!

    thump! Adventurer

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    The calculator deals with the primary drive ratio change that was made with the '94 model.
  4. aceofspades991

    aceofspades991 n00b

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    Sep 29, 2013
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    Hi all,

    Are there any compatibility issues year to year with the bottom ends of the DR350? In other words, would I be able to take a case/transmission from an older bike and put it on my 99 DR350SE as long as the case came off an e-start bike?

    Thanks in advance for any replies.
  5. veriest1

    veriest1 Minimalist Gear Hoarder

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    Ok pumper carb is still giving me issues.

    It was running fine but still dieing at high rpm last week. Traced it back to my ghetto intake boot setup that came with the carb since it wasnt sealing. Called Jesse and problem solved with his "biscuit" and spacer.

    Got the carb in but now it won't start and when it does it dies if I touch the throttle. So...

    TM33 pumper
    137 pilot (or whatever comes in a new tm33)
    145 main 'cause I was chaing high rpm problems but it shouldnt effect starting)
    Fuel screw is 1.5 turns out.
    Idle air is just touching the pulley.

    Set like this it will start and idle 1/2 the time but that's all it'll do.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk
  6. dav_dman

    dav_dman Been here awhile

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    no expert but sounds like you're not getting a transition to the higher speed circuit, which means the needle stuck in the seat, float stuck, or something in that part of the carb.
  7. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    Pretty sure it will all bolt up. First gear got a little lower in 97 at 2.5 from 2.416.
  8. ghebinkim

    ghebinkim n00b

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    Jan 30, 2013
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    Mountain View, CA
    Thanks everyone, turns out my battery wasn't holding a charge after sitting in storage. A new battery fixed the tach issue and it reads out more reasonable values now!
  9. markk900

    markk900 Been here awhile

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    The calculator bases everything off of a reading of indicated speed and indicated rpm from the creator of the calculator (ie. 5300 rpm in 6th at 60mph on a specific brand of tire). Everything else is a % of that single reading, so there is a great deal of variability that could be had.

    Use it as an approximation only, though most readings should be reasonably close (ie +/- 500rpm).

    There also appears to be one insignificant error - while the calculator deals with the primary ratio change, at least in comparison to my 95 SE the first gear ratio in the 94+ column is wrong. According to my manual it didn't change from the earlier bikes.
  10. thump!

    thump! Adventurer

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    That's exactly how the calculator was developed. My bike, my instruments. It was intended as a predictive tool for the effect of sprocket changes.

    The tachometer, being electronic is probably the more accurate instrument and we all know the speedometer is several mph optimistic. However, IF the observed speed and rpm cells in the spreadsheet are adjusted for YOUR bike (the tire is the biggest variable), the calculator should be very accurate since the mathimatical relationship of the gears is fixed. Keep in mind the indicated speed on the DR350's mechanical speedometer may NOT match up at all speeds but that will be due to the limitations of the crude rotating magnet instrument.
  11. boboneleg

    boboneleg we can rebuild him.

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    That did the trick :clap

    As you can see there was a fair bit more wear on one side of the bearing compared with the other side.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  12. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    Hi all,

    I've been finalizing the build of a 1993 DR350 with a 1991 engine (dirt model). The other day I noticed that the petcock was leaking externally. Rather than investigate a fix to the original, I decided to purchase a replacement petcock. A quick stroll through eBay found this unit:
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/190618007951?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

    At $12.50 delivered, it was certainly inexpensive enough. It arrived quickly and functions correctly (no leaks when closed, flows fuel when open).

    However, I do have one significant complaint: the barbed hose connection is ~6mm in diameter, whereas the OEM DR350 carburetor's hose connection is ~8mm. 1/4" fuel line is loose on the 6mm side (you'll have to use a clamp) and tight on the 8mm side. Liveable, certainly, but not optimal. I much prefer the OEM Yamaha Raptor petcock I purchased several years ago for ~$25.

    This may seem like a insignificant detail, but it is one that I find annoying. Liveable, certainly. But annoying.

    More on the superior Raptor petcock here:
    http://thisoldtractor.com/gtbender/dr350.htm#gtb_petcock_replacement

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  13. jules083

    jules083 Long timer

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    Found this one for sale locally. He said he'll take $500, I don't know. Seems high to me, I was thinking $250-$300. Any thoughts? He said it runs but needs a carb, has good title. Not sure of the year yet.

    [​IMG]

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
  14. Greg Bender

    Greg Bender Long timer

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    $500 for a runner with a clear title? Sounds like a steal to me. Sure, there are a few visual issues to attend to, but mechanically they [nearly] all need a going through at this age.

    Regards,

    Gregory Bender
  15. SloMo228

    SloMo228 World Class Cheapass

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    $500 isn't too bad, since it has a title, and has a few goodies on it. I mean, if you can get it for $250-300, that's even better, but I'd definitely pay $500 for it. If you can, check the cam for evidence of oil starvation, otherwise I'd pick it right up.

    Also, if you do buy it and want to sell that rear rack, shoot me a PM. I'd definitely take it off your hands. The frame guards on there are also a pretty desirable item, I'm sure you could sell them here easily if you don't want them.
  16. MrPulldown

    MrPulldown Long timer

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    agreed with both the above statements.

    Looks like it has an upgraded "Tall" seat, and it has the passenger pegs.

    Looks like it is missing the skid plate (very cheap to replace $5-10). Headlight cowl ($10-20). Right side plastic panel ($30).

    How easy is it to start, both hot and cold.

    These things will all have a pretty loud tick coming from the engine IMO. SOme louder that others.
  17. markk900

    markk900 Been here awhile

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    Hey - sorry if my post sounded like criticism - not intended! My point was that the OP was wondering why his results were so far out, and so I was trying to say (obviously not clearly) that unless you have a good base reading for your own bike (to replace your set number of 5300 RPM at 60) you can expect there to be a lot of variables (effective tire diameter, speedo error, and even potentially tach error) from the setup you used to create the base number. And since people who are using the calculator to see if something is wrong with their own setup won't have the ability to change your base, they should take the results as an approximation.

    You did a good thing with the calculator - no question there!
  18. mwilliamshs

    mwilliamshs Been here awhile

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    Put that bike in Arkansas and it's sold. $500 for what is most likely a <$1000 solid runner is a good buy and for a titled SE, a no-brainer. Buy now, fix over winter (watch ebay/CL/etc and buy parts cheaper in the off-season) and then sell in the spring for $1500-2000 depending on cosmetics. Easy Money, fun (self-paced) wrenching and you could keep the rack and frame guards for your own bike and still clear a few hundred profit.

    EDIT: I see a kick-starter and what looks like 93 graphics...if that's got a left side panel with a good decal on it I'll make your day. PM me if you buy this bike.
  19. Hackpirate

    Hackpirate Been here awhile

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    Mates, I'm trying to determine if a CL seller is fair on his price for a 99 DR350 with 10k miles and in what appears to be very good condition. It has the Clarke desert tank and stock tank.

    I've talked to the fella, he's straight up good guy. I can't ride the bike since I'm an amputee, my older sons (21 & 23) are getting into riding and one has a DR125, the other a KLR250. I wanted them to start slow and move up gradually. I ride a DL1000 with a sidecar and hope someday the boys will come along and pitch the tent for the old man.

    He is asking $1750 and may move some. Gotta get back to him tonight so thanks for chiming in.

    Hackpirate
  20. AST236

    AST236 Long timer

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    That price is more than fair.