DR650 Cush Drive Bearings

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by BergDonk, Apr 7, 2011.

?

How's your > 96 DR650 Cush Drive?

  1. Lateral movement of sprocket 0-1 mm

  2. Lateral movement of sprocket 1-3 mm

  3. Lateral movement of sprocket 3-6 mm

  4. Lateral movement of sprocket > 6 mm

  5. Bearings changed @ < 5,000 kms

  6. Bearings changed @ < 10,000 kms

  7. Bearings changed @ < 15,000 kms

  8. Bearings changed @ < 20,000 kms

  9. Bearings changed @ > 20,000 kms

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  1. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
    27,065
    Location:
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    here's some bearing info i have.

    Bearings:
    -Front wheel bearings: SKF 6003-2RSJ
    -Front wheel seal: 09284-23001
    -Rear wheel bearings: SKF 6204-2RSJ
    2 x 6204 - 20x47x14
    -Rear wheel seal (brake side): 09283-26019
    1 x 26x47x7
    -Lock nut from 2008 and newer: 08319-2118a
    -Cush Hub bearing: SKF 6205-2RSJ
    1 x 6205 - 25x52x15
    -Cush Seal - 1 x 35x52x7
    #21
    Mugwest likes this.
  2. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

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    I seem to be replacing bearings about every 20,000km/8 months.
    #22
  3. Phreaky Phil

    Phreaky Phil Long timer

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    Could the cush drive housing be machined deeper to accept a second bearing ?.
    #23
  4. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    There is not a lot of meat there. The space is currently occupied by a spacer. Might have a closer look, maybe its possible to squeeze another bearing in there.

    Steve
    #24
  5. Aerocycle

    Aerocycle Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Just throwing in my experience. My bike has 10,400 miles on it, bearing is on it's way out. Luckily I happened to bend over and check the play in my sprocket, which was between 1 and 3 mm, so I knew I needed to fix something. Bought a new koyo bearing from Allied Bearings, very good prices. :deal

    Here's a picture of my bearing right after I pulled the seal off. Looks like someone packed dirt in there... :eek1
    [​IMG]
    #25
  6. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    well due.........
    #26
  7. garnaro

    garnaro MotoBlunderer

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    Thanks for this info Eakins...just ordered some new ones using this..
    #27
  8. LexLeroy

    LexLeroy Nerds Rule

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    Has consensus been reached on how to deal with this bearing issue? I was planning to lace a DR650SE rear hub & sprocket carrier to an 18" rear wheel and adapt it to my XR650L so I'd like to leverage any recently-gained wisdom.

    I've already succeeded in adapting a KLR650 cush hub to the bike but it requires the on-going workload of modifying KLR sprockets and rotors whenever a change is required - not a good long-term plan. The DR650 solution seems to be able to take advantage of readily available 520 sprockets and 220mm rotors from other bikes, which makes for easier replacement when those parts wear out.

    This sounds a lot like the sprocket carrier issue faced by first generation DL1000 owners. Folks with that bike, which has about a 7mm offset between the bearing and sprocket center lines, like to minimize sprocket "wobble" by forcing the carrier up against the cush rubbers, either by cutting down the carrier-to-hub spacer or by shimming out the cush rubbers.
    #28
  9. bobzilla

    bobzilla Dirty Old Man

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    i thought the problem was the bearing moving in the cush hub so i machined a groove and added a e ring . bearing does not move, im at 6k miles and watching

    i did that while putting a dr350 18" wheel on my 650.
    so far so good
    #29
  10. LexLeroy

    LexLeroy Nerds Rule

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    The KLR rear hub uses an "E" ring without a seal. It seemed like a belt & suspenders to me but I can see how a retaining ring would make sense after the bearing gets changed a few times and the bore gets a little sloppy.
    #30
  11. Foot dragger

    Foot dragger singletracker

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    Same here,Ive got 29K on my 03 DR with no signs of cush drive bearing issues,I did change out the rubbers recently just for drill. The bike has been underwater a few times,lotsa dust and dirt. This thread is a good reminder though,I should change out that bearing to a good quality one rather then wait it out.

    The wheel bearings are stock but I use both sets of wheels Ive got here so the wear gets spread out.

    Pro Cycle probably has a good bearing kit for the cush drive?
    #31
  12. LexLeroy

    LexLeroy Nerds Rule

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    Well, I got the hub, bearings, sprocket carrier and cush rubbers delivered. Before I test torqued everything together with a piece of threaded rod I stuck pieces of modeling clay on the outer surfaces of the cush rubbers so that I could see how large a gap exists between the rubbers and the back side of the sprocket carrier. My reasoning was that the DL1000 VStrom has about 2mm of free space which leads to rear sprocket canting under load, chain snatch when the rear sprocket teeth catch on the chain's side plates and premature bearing failure. The big Strom, like the DR650, has a sprocket carrier where the bearing and sprocket center lines are offset by a significant amount.

    What I found was that there's about .5mm free space which could be allowing the DL650's sprocket to cant under load the way that the DL1000's does, although not to the same extent. Kawasaki, BTW, looks like they use zero clearance between the KLR650's cush rubbers and its sprocket carrier to control rear sprocket canting.

    Anyone have any thoughts?
    #32
  13. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    Interesting.

    In principle I don't like the idea of relying on the rubber to maintain bearing life, it doesn't add up for me.

    The double row bearings seem to be the fix for me.
    #33
  14. LexLeroy

    LexLeroy Nerds Rule

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    Agreed. I was discussing the KLR650 approach w/ an engineer buddy and his observation was "it's a crappy solution but there's not much room for anything else."

    So I take it that you're using a double-row angular contact bearing? 5205 double seals? Any seals outboard of that?
    #34
  15. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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    Here is a summary quote from my build thread which might help:

    Real soon now I'll goi live with the 4205 whicxh will likely be OK with the stock seal arrangement. I made a seal reatainer up for the 3205 to keep the stock arrangement.

    The wider bearings just need a different spacer.

    [​IMG]
    #35
  16. LexLeroy

    LexLeroy Nerds Rule

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    Thanks for the additional information - way better than having to puzzle it out and spend the time & money on my own. Good on ya'.
    #36
  17. LexLeroy

    LexLeroy Nerds Rule

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    Have you tried a 62205-2RS bearing w/ a 5mm thick outer seal? It's 18mm wide and it ought to fit OK in the bearing pocket without any of the 5mm seal protruding. Turns out that I've got about 6mm between the sprocket carrier and the swing arm and won't need to remove any metal so maybe I ought to give it a try.

    [​IMG]
    #37
  18. LexLeroy

    LexLeroy Nerds Rule

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    After some discussions w/ BergDonk & DR Steve in another thread I decided to implement a solution pioneered by DR Steve - a needle roller bearing between the cush drive bearing and the left wheel bearing. I also replaced the carrier bearing w/ a 17 x 52 x 16 unit to avoid needing to have a spacer between the existing and new carrier bearings. Look closely at the cush drive and you can see the rollers where the spacer normally resides. While the DR650SE hub is set up for an XR650L w/ a 17mm axle the principle is the same in spite of the different bearing & spacer IDs.

    [​IMG]

    I had the bike out for about 200 miles yesterday and nothing broke or locked up. I'll pull things apart soon for a quick peek and if everything looks good I'll plan to apply DR Steve's fix to my DL1000 - another Suzuki with the exact same problem.

    [​IMG]

    As a parting shot here's a picture of the bike w/ the DR650SE hub. It almost looks factory-original. A few more Swazook parts and I'll have this pig of mine up to scratch. :lol3
    #38
  19. Dirty Harry

    Dirty Harry Coffee Addict

    Joined:
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    Midwest
    Has there been a new revelation to the hub bearing fix in the last year?:y0!


    I just replaced chain/sprockets/cush-rubber/cush-bearing because my previous rear sprocket was worn to knife points due to a wobbly hub. Even with all new parts I am seeing my rear sprocket track back and forth inside the new chain and I am afraid it will wear out again in the same way.

    I don't get free play when moving the rear sprocket by hand, it seems tight, but I still can see it isn't tracking straight when I spin the wheel while the bike it on a stand. I believe the wheel is aligned correctly but maybe I'm not.

    Any input? thanks!
    #39
  20. mouthfulloflake

    mouthfulloflake Not afraid

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    I noticed some play in the new to me DR in my garage.
    most of the rubber bits fell out when I removed the rear wheel to repair a flat on Monday.

    is it possible that I did not retorque the rear axle nut enough? or does that play mean that I need new bearings and cush rubbers?

    I have a non-cush DR350 rear wheel, I could maybe use it instead.
    #40