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Discussion in 'Hacks' started by kliff, Nov 29, 2008.
Very nice rig there Kliff
So this means you'll be ready to ride next week?
Wanna build one for my DR? I would like the hack in blue ,please!
For the time being, anyway, we'll call this project "done." The fender is mounted.
Sure there will be some odds and ends done, but I've got a couple of KLR's to get ready for Spring sales...
For now though, the fender is mounted, and alignments and adjustments completed. I used Vernon's method for a "pre-alignment," then went back to my ole red-neck dirt trackin' days, of tweakin' till it feels good. So far no head shake, from idle up to 80mph. Completely neutral feel, no pull left or right, from 35-65mph.
I started with about 1/4" toe-in, and about 1/4" lean out.....who knows where it is now, cause once I start tweakin', and find a 'sweet spot," I could care less. Besides, the sweet spot for this rig would never be the same for an identical twin....
But as for all the hoopla haw about too many heims..... this ain't my first rodeo, and I am familiar with "heim slack." But this little jewel, installed in an entirely different plane, from hack attachment, and strut rods, is used to "load" all the heims to remove that slack, after any adjustments have been made.... works like a charm.
Was also a good place to tie off my battery cables coming to the "box," and the enclosed 35ah battery.
As to square steel tubing, again, I've been quiet, till I could show it's merits. 1/8" wall thickness, as I used, is a MINIMUM. 1 & 1/4" square for main structural strength, again, I would consider as minimum, and 1" square, only for sub-structure. 1/4" plate far all stressed mounting points. DOM tubing .083" - .125" wall thickness, again for stressed structure. And yes, shamefully, schedule 40 pipe, for "hand holds...." Grade 8, or comparable strength metric fastners where needed.
This hack actually is too light, and would have been better if built from heavier materials. Though not from a strength stand point, but mainly from a low speed handling point. The next rig will be 2" square, .250" wall thickness.
Oh...how light is too light..... wheel, tire, battery, frame, shocks, exhaust....everything to the right of the sub frame.... how about 142lbs ?
Yup, that's it. Tools, rope puller, spare gas, et al, are a coming!
My advice on building hacks... if you don't have vast experience with structure fab, and material strengths, then listen to the experts like Claude. Knowledge such as his will, and IS, priceless to noob builders. Don't let noob enthusiasm, and a less than satisfactory budget, lead you into a sub-standard build. Either "over" build, or listen to the 'sperts. Leave the 'sprimenting, and "border-line" building to them what beeen there, done that, till you've paid some dues...
Kliff, that looks outstanding! Brilliant job mate
Thanks Dave. Next rig will be an Aussie styled "camper." And IT will be all your fault! Just gotta find the right tug...gonna be shaft driven too. Just want something besides a Beemer or Wing...... Seems like Honda had a 900 four a few years back, with a shaft.....hmmmmm
Nah.....but I'll sell ya a complete yaller rig, ready to go, for $6K... Or even give you a partial trade on a KLR + cash...
.............and a ten-speed!
Suzuki had a shaft drive 1100 (4cyl) roady back in the early 90s.
What about using a Guzzi Quota 1100 ??
Hee, Hee, Hee, welcome to the dark side.
or a Kawa GTR1000 Concours !! 4 cylinder shaft drive and damn good value oh and bulletproof
Looks great kliff!
That is a really cool rig you've built. Congrats!
All the best,
All I have to do to make it mine is think of it in reverse.
More than 'nice work' there.
That's just plain 'ole damn 'mazin'!
Looks good Kliff!
>>This hack actually is too light, and would have been better if built from heavier materials. Though not from a strength stand point, but mainly from a low speed handling point. The next rig will be 2" square, .250" wall thickness.<<
You may want to consider still using the 1/8" wall material if you plan to stick with square stock and then just plating the frame for additional weight if felt needed. That way you can still end up with a very strong assembly but will be abel to distribute the weight around as needed. Ballast if desired can be bolted to the plate to the rear or anywhere you see fit.
You had mentioned about criticism related to using all the heim ends. I may have been guilty of that one
YOU are right in sdaying that if all the hookups are angled in such a way as to prevent any unwanted rotation within the heim ends you will be okay. I would ,however, make it a point to either sandwich the heims within two bracket members or at least add a large dismeter washer on th eside of the heim away from a singel bracket. I have seen the center of heim ends pull out of their socket if overstressed to the side. A large washer will at least keep the things from creating a total failure. Not my first rodeao either
Great looking outfit Kliff....keep us posted.
responses in RED...
As far as the washers go it might never be an issue, probably won't...but...heck they cost peanuts. There are fancy washers out there but no real need for them. Click here:
Regardless of my stupid rambling..you have built a really cool rig there and should be proud of it. Good job.
I am impressed that Claude takes the time to help folks with thier personal projects. It seems as his suggestions are always done in a positive way and never any name calling stuff from him that I have seen. Thanks!
I am reading lots of these build reports to reduce my ignorance before starting my own build. Thanks Kliff, Claude and the many others that contribute. JB
Question from a noob;
won't that exhaust be blowing in your passengers face, and maybe a little loud being right in front?
Nice looking outfit though, great job!
PS I agree, Nice of Claude to chime in!