DR650 Hydraulic Clutch Installation

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by 2laneblacktop, Mar 23, 2013.

  1. 2laneblacktop

    2laneblacktop Tarmac

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    3,121
    If you like the reliability and smoothness of hydraulic clutches, this is the way to go, installed on a 09 DR650

    This system came about through several detailed pictures and measurements back and forth to tech support
    Peter Ubellacker at Magura, who I must say was the most helpful and determined tech support I've experienced

    This is literally a drop-in clutch setup that may as well have been made for DR650s, a minute to file the bracket
    and less than a minute to move the clutch arm over 1 spline and you're done, the rest is just a quick oil fill and bleed
    and heat shield fab

    I suggest ordering directly from Magura instead of going through a local store so you don't experience the frustration I did
    waiting for weeks for the wrong parts they ordered

    This is a very simple install anyone can do


    Magura Clutch Procedure



    Parts List Sugg. Retail

    Magura Clutch Assy part# 0120492 $ 295.00
    (Slave cylinder) part# 0120653 Included
    (Slave cylinder bushing) part# 0412310 Included
    (Cylinder Barrel adapter) Included
    (46 inch plastic oil line) Included


    Recommended Items Sold Separately

    46 Inch SS Braided Line Part# 0720550-32 $ 70.78
    Mirror clamp bracket Part# 0720543 $ 27.80
    Bleed Kit Part# 0720528 $ 26.12
    Magura Blood Mineral oil Part# 0999999-02 $ 5.16

    Note: This assembly comes with a lever that has a red spur knob for lever position
    adjustment (confirm when ordering)


    Contact Sales/Support:

    Peter Ubellacker Magura USA 1-800-448-3876
    Peter@Magurausa.com

    =============================================

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    8 mm socket 1/4 drive (on swivel or flex extension)
    8 mm open end wrench
    10 mm socket
    12 mm socket
    6 mm Allen socket or wrench
    4 mm Allen socket or wrench
    Pliers
    1/8 punch or equivalent (removal of roll pin in mirror clamp)
    7/32 (5.5mm) open end wrench (slave cylinder bleeder)
    Blade style feeler gauge is helpful
    Rivet gun or just screws for heat shield
    ===============================================


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    Note: DO NOT MANUALLY PUSH IN THE SLAVE CYLINDER ARM, THIS CAN UNSEAT THE SEALS, IT SHOULD ONLY BE ACTUATED BY THE LEVER WITH OIL INSTALLED


    Disassembly

    (1) With the 10, 12 mm sockets and pliers for fuel line remove your side panels, seat and gas tank

    (2) With the 4, 6 mm Allen sockets, remove your header pipe at engine front, shield at mid point, and header clamp bold behind the shield

    Note: If you haven&#8217;t done your header pipe weld clean up at the head, do it before you reinstall the header

    (3) Swing your hand guard out of the way if installed


    Original Clutch Cable Assy


    (4) Mark the clutch arm original and new position with a punch or sharpie, remove clutch arm bolt, remove clutch arm, then remove from cable end. (Fig 1)
    THE NEW POSITION OF THE CLUTCH ARM WILL BE 1 SPLINE OVER TO THE LEFT FROM THE ORIGINAL POSITION (Fig 2)


    [​IMG]



    (5) The cable is now loose in the bracket, note how the cable is routed, remove lever clamp at the perch and pull the cable from it&#8217;s routed position from top of handlebars

    Magura Hydraulic Assy

    (6) Install the mirror mount clamp bracket if ordered, tap out the roll pin in the mount with a 1/8 punch or the back end of a 1/8&#8221; drill bit, use a wooden hammer handle to not damage the drill tip (Fig 3-1)

    (7) If you ordered the stainless hose separately install it now, but leave the nut at the master cylinder loose for now (Fig 3-2) For added protection I added shrink tubing over the stainless line but it&#8217;s not necessary

    Note: A couple of pics were taken out of sequence, so you'll notice Fig 7 & 11 show the cylinder with the vinyl tubing

    [​IMG]



    (8) Install the new assembly routing the same way as the cable was routed


    SETTING THE FREEPLAY: The freeplay recommended in the install manual says 4-6 mm, I set mine about 4 mm and it worked perfect on the 2009 DR650

    NOTE: THE FREEPLAY IS DETERMINED BY HOW YOU REMOVE OFF THE MOUNTING BRACKET

    (9) Remove the cylinder bracket and grind/file the rolled over portion so there is a flat surface for the slave bushing to rest in and against, and slightly open up the inside diameter of the cylinder bracket tapping in with a punch so the cylinder bushing floats freely inside, there should be no binding, an additional 1-2mm will be removed from this flat surface to achieve correct freeplay, (if you accidentally remove to much, washers can be added back to correct the needed amount noted below) (Fig 4 and 5)

    [​IMG]



    (10) Remove 1-2mm from the bottom of barrel adapter end to clear the case under clutch arm (Fig 6)

    (11) Install the bracket, mount the slave cylinder and bushing in the bracket, put on the barrel adapter end, install on clutch arm and install clutch arm in new the position 1 spline over left from original position. Putting a small washer behind the bracket on the second bolt will help align the cylinder arm for straightest pulling action (Fig 7)

    [​IMG]



    Checking freeplay - Push the slave cylinder back and measure the freeplay between the bracket and slave cylinder bushing with a feeler gauge or ruler, Now is when you determine how much more if any, needs to be removed from your bracket to achieve proper freeplay, this should be 1-2 mm, check carefully. (Fig 8 and 9 )

    Note: A washer is supplied in the install kit to take up some freeplay if there is too much

    Note: Too much freeplay will cause the bike to crawl forward in first gear with the clutch pulled in when the bike is fully warmed up

    Note: The red knob at the lever is for LEVER POSITION ONLY not clutch freeplay

    [​IMG]



    BLEEDING THE SYSTEM

    Before tightening the oil line fitting nut at the reservoir, put approx ¼ turn twist in the line pulling toward the handle bars, this twist down the line will cause the cylinder to rest toward the starter and away from the exhaust as much as possible, the tighten the fitting nuts
    (Fig 10 and 11)

    [​IMG]



    Follow the directions in the kit, this process is simple and quick


    Wrap a paper towel around the reservoir to minimize clean up then suspend the bleeder syringe with oil, tap up and down the line to help release any trapped air in the system
    (Fig 12 and 13)

    [​IMG]



    Making A Heat Shield

    The clutch cylinder sits close to the exhaust pipe, so making a heat shield seemed like a good idea. Cut 2 pieces of 4&#8221;x6&#8221; 1/16 aluminum, bend or push them down into the jaws of a vise with a tube the same diameter of the exhaust, then trim them down to the final size of 2 ½ x 5 ½ (Fig 14)
    Heat shields work best with air gaps so rivets were used to fasten the pieces so they would elevate the shield off the pipe, (Fig 15) small nuts were pinched between walls for another gap to fit a strip of heat shield material

    [​IMG]



    Heat material available at most auto stores
    (Fig 16 and 17)

    [​IMG]



    Lastly, trimming the corner approx ½ inch allowed the shield to accommodate the bend in the pipe underneath, and finally, installed with extra wrap of heat material on cylinder
    (Fig 18 and 19)

    [​IMG]
    #1
  2. rpet

    rpet Awesometown

    Joined:
    Aug 7, 2010
    Oddometer:
    829
    Location:
    El Lay
    thanks for sharing!

    hydro clutch would be sweet on the ol' DR. The heat shield stuff is mildly annoying to have to deal with. Please report back with the long term results.
    #2
  3. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    5,295
    Location:
    Snowy Mountains Oz
    Looks good :super
    #3
  4. FuzzyNugs

    FuzzyNugs Adventurer

    Joined:
    Apr 22, 2011
    Oddometer:
    83
    Location:
    Loudoun County, VA
    I've never seen this mod before. Well done and great write-up. Does this make the clutch easier to pull in? After lot's of slow speed technical stuff, my left arm is usually wasted. Would be nice for it to be a lighter pull.
    #4
  5. DisTech

    DisTech Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 3, 2008
    Oddometer:
    643
    Location:
    Seattle
    Wow, thank you for the excellent write-up! :thumb
    #5
  6. 2laneblacktop

    2laneblacktop Tarmac

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    3,121
    It isn't even mildly annoying, very simple and worth the precautionary measures, works great


    Much easier to pull, my cable never felt right, even after changing to a motion pro, I was used to the ease of pull of hydraulic

    I would do it again before any other mod
    #6
  7. TrophyHunter

    TrophyHunter Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,599
    Location:
    San Diego
    One of the best tech write ups I've seen. Thx for taking the time to post up.
    #7
  8. 2laneblacktop

    2laneblacktop Tarmac

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    3,121
    Thanks, I would recommend as mentioned earlier ordering directly from Magura from the contact info above, I tried to give the business to a local store who turned the order into a mess and tried to over charge, and as a result, a couple of the pics were taken slightly out of sequence

    The install has a steel braided line but there are pics with the vinyl line
    #8
  9. j-dub3

    j-dub3 WORK HARD, PLAY HARD, SEEK WISDOM & ADVENTURE

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2016
    Oddometer:
    9
    Location:
    Missouri
    Your original clutch post was 2008, I am reading this in 2016, thinking about the same upgrade. Any advice years now since you did it? Still loving it, clutch hydro still holding up? Would you do anything different?
    #9