DR650 Street Tracker Build

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by JagLite, Jan 20, 2013.

  1. TUCKERS

    TUCKERS the famous james

    Joined:
    Dec 23, 2005
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    12,273
    Location:
    Villa Maria Sanitarium, Claremont, CA.
    I also own a TW200 and a DR650,

    if I could just put the DR650 motor in the Tdub, I'd have a TW650.

    I must resist, I must resist, I must resist............
  2. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 17, 2010
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    1,527
    Location:
    Anchorage Alaska
    I go round and round with possibilities for the Strom.
    Putting TW wheels and tires like Kubiak has done to his BMW has a lot of appeal.
    So does removing all the plastic and extra weight, making a fiberglass tank and putting wire wheels (21 &17/18) with knobbies on it.

    The motor is magic but the bike is too stinkin' top heavy.

    Maybe a custom steel tube trellis frame like the KTM?

    With good mx bike suspension of course.

    So many possibilities... :1drink
  3. PhiSig1071

    PhiSig1071 What's ******width?

    Joined:
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    The "Thin-strom's" seemed to come out pretty good, if you decide to go that route. But I can appreciate wanting something completely different.
  4. NC Rick

    NC Rick Cogent Dynamics Inc

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    Aug 31, 2007
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    723
    Location:
    Asheville, NC
    I would like a project like that of my own. I will watch with great interest. I loved and mis my own Wee...
  5. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer

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    My bike made the (semi) big time!

    Bike Exif wasn't interested, Pipeburn wasn't interested, but Motorcycle Photo of the Day posted up 3 pictures of it recently.

    http://motorcyclephotooftheday.com/2013/12/08/suzuki-dr-650-tracker/

    If you haven't seen it there already, please click the "rate this" stars as you see fit.

    I hope we get more DR's on the bike picture sites.
  6. PhiSig1071

    PhiSig1071 What's ******width?

    Joined:
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    Eh, Bikeexif and Pipeburn are crap anyway. They both sold out to advertisers and overpriced crap that no one can afford and no one will ride. :lol3
  7. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer

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    Location:
    Anchorage Alaska
    Now that spring has sprung in Anchorage I have been able to start riding and tuning the tracker. :clap

    Only problem is, it is too stinkin' LOUD!

    Almost as loud as most of the Harleys riding around town.

    To quiet the Emglo reverse cone muffler I welded in 3 more perforated baffles in the core.
    Still too loud, in fact they really didn't make much difference in noise.
    My next thought was to make a deflector baffle that would go in-line inside the core.
    The idea being that the sound waves would bounce off the angles and into the packing and continue to bounce around inside.

    I searched through my stash of scrap metal and chose an old real estate sign for a defunct office and cut it with my tin snips.
    Then I clamped it into my vise and bent it at 90 degrees one way and then back the other way.
    Very technically designed of course. :D

    It looks like this:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    That baffle is a very tight fit inside the core.
    I also added a piece of aluminum wrapped around the core at the outlet end to create a dam to the pressure wave.
    Same idea as all the quiet inserts sold for the straight through mufflers.
    It also seems to help to my poor hearing ears.
    I am going to shorten the aluminum down next since I think it is longer than necessary.

    The current version is much, uh, less noisy than before but still louder than I like.
    About the same as the FMF straight through muffler...
    That is about due for repacking.

    The problem is there is not enough volume in the muffler housing to allow the pressure wave to expand and lose energy.
    I think. :rofl
    Hey, I'm a structural designer not an engineer.

    It is interesting that the sound of the exhaust without the muffler on seems to be quieter than with the unbaffled reverse cone muffler on.
    I am guessing the cone is directing the pressure wave whereas a straight cut end of pipe is allowing the pressure wave to expand instantly.

    My wife says she doesn't think it is too loud if I am careful with the throttle around houses, people, animals, and cops. :eek1

    I would like to get the sound down to the level of my GSXR muffler on the DR but there may not be enough room without severely restricting the flow.

    I am thinking of a smaller diameter core since that will allow more packing.
    And/or building a chambered insert.

    Experimentation continues... :wink:
  8. gregoblv

    gregoblv Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 3, 2012
    Oddometer:
    14
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    Las Vegas, NV
    This has been a great build and there are many things I would like to ask, but the ones I really want to know about are to do with your fiberglass tank.
    How did you form the under side for the tunnel and how you formed the bungs for the petcock(s) and filler neck.
    Did you have a book you used for reference or was this acquired experience?
    I wish you had done a thread on how to work in 'glass.

    Again, great bike.
  9. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer

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    Thanks!

    I made the tank tunnel (twice) by laying plastic sheet over the frame back bone and fiberglassed right on the bike.
    Looked great until I found on reassembly that I had not accounted for the coil, the wire harness, or the clutch & throttle cables.
    Duh.... :huh

    [​IMG]

    The second time I just made the form on the bare frame wider to give room for everything.

    I cut the top of an old gas tank out to use as the filler bung and cap.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    Then I glassed a "floor" on the sides of the outer shell:
    [​IMG]

    Of course, later I figured out it would have been much better, easier, and faster to have made the bottom of the tank by cutting the tunnel flat on the bottom where I wanted it, set it on a sheet of plastic, and laid up the fiberglass on the flat plastic and up the side of the tunnel an inch.
    Then I would have set the outer shell on top of the tunnel and marked the bottom where the shell fit and cut the bottom to fit inside the shell.
    I always figure out a better way to do something after I have done it another way... :cry

    On final assembly I found that the throttle cables at the carb interfered with the tank so I had to cut it open again:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The bung for the petcock is just a washer and nut epoxied in a hole in the fiberglass.

    All these pictures (and many more) are on page 1 & 2 of this thread, did you miss them?

    I have experience with fiberglass (building boats) so it was relatively easy for me even though I hate working with it now.

    If you can find a tank that you like and can make it fit, that is a much better way to go.

    I have learned that if I were to make another one I would have everything installed that goes under the tank BEFORE making the tunnel and bottom.

    I have been riding it now that spring has thawed most of the snow and it is a real fun hot rod :clap
  10. Quacamole

    Quacamole Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2011
    Oddometer:
    95
    Location:
    Tallinn, Estonia
    How's the tank holding up so far? No issues, have you maybe dropped
    the bike or smth..?

    Fantastic job btw!

    Br.,
    Quaca
  11. gregoblv

    gregoblv Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 3, 2012
    Oddometer:
    14
    Location:
    Las Vegas, NV
    Missed, forgot or was confused not sure which, but it is much clearer now. Thanks! As an old flat tracker I LOVE Street trackers. This is a wonderful departure from the normal Yamaha XS650 and I was not in the Yammy camp in the first place. You got me looking for something to convert and NOT a XS650.:wink:

    Thanks again and again.
  12. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer

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    I think the DR makes an excellent basis for a street tracker.

    Of course I am biased but imagine what fun a 300 lb street tracker with the Procycle 790cc kit and a pumper carb would be! :evil

    If you choose to build a bike you could do a lot worse than starting with a '96-'14 DR.

    <hr style="color:#575757; background-color:#575757" size="1">
    The tank is holding up perfectly so far.

    No, I haven't dropped it yet where the tank hit the ground, the only damage so far has been one mirror broke off when the bike got knocked over in the garage and the mirror hit my build table.
    Yikes! That was close... :cry

    The Caswell tank sealer is doing the job. :clap
  13. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer

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    Sold my 4 wheeler and to celebrate I ordered a TM40 pumper carb from Procycle :clap

    Now I am wondering how it will fit with my tank and air filter set up.

    Oh well, I will make it work whatever I need to do.

    Next dream purchase for the tracker is a 790 kit :D
  14. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer

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    The carb arrived in the mail Friday so I skipped dinner and took the seat and tank off (takes about 60 seconds) and pulled the stock carb out.
    I looked at the TM and was disappointed to see it has regular JIS screws on the float bowl.
    I thought about pulling the cap screws out of the old carb and putting them in the TM but decided to leave it alone for now.
    I don't know if the screws are the same size anyway.

    I read the installation instructions and it seemed very straight forward so I went ahead and put it in.
    My air filter system fit right on and it was easy.
    Actually the hardest part was getting the throttle cables routed in a way that they didn't bind at full lock one way or the other.

    After work today I picked up some more fuel line as what I had wouldn't reach and then I put the tank and seat back on and started it up.

    Or tried too anyway. :huh

    No fire in the hole for a long time.

    Gas was flowing and it did eventually start up and runs fine.

    There is a definite improvement in instant throttle response :clap

    I didn't have much time to ride so just a quick run around the block and a couple wheelies.

    What a hot rod!
    Light weight, low gearing (13/46) and a pumper carb makes for an entertaining ride :D
  15. Z_HARSH

    Z_HARSH Like margarine?

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2008
    Oddometer:
    492
    Location:
    Denver
    Really cool stuff, great looking bike! Thanks for posting!

    If I may ask, what kind of glue did you use to glue together your 2 inch blue insulation foam on the tank plug? I tried contact cement but it eats away the foam leaving big pockets of air. I'm thinking Elmers glue won't be the best.

    I also see your cuts were very nice on the tank plug, I have tried a drywall saw and a serrated bread knife but my cuts on the foam are not nearly as nice as yours, any tips there?

    Thanks!

    -Zach
  16. JagLite

    JagLite Long timer

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    I used the wood glue I had on hand, I think is is Tite-Bond but any water clean-up glue will be fine.

    I used my regular hand saws to cut the foam.
    I tried electric meat carving knives that work well on upholstery foam but that just made a mess.
    I like my Japanese pull saw but any regular hand saw (not a power saw) will cut nicely through the blue foam.
  17. gregoblv

    gregoblv Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 3, 2012
    Oddometer:
    14
    Location:
    Las Vegas, NV

    I have used many types of 'White' and wood glues when gluing this type of foam and Elmer's regular white glue works as well as any and is easy and CHEAP to use. It will be strong enough to to use the plug over if it is not destroyed removing the tank shell. You can use tooth picks to maintain location of the blocks while the glue dries. For sure do not waste your money on the 'special' foam glue.

    You never said if you had to destroy the plug removing the shell?
  18. Z_HARSH

    Z_HARSH Like margarine?

    Joined:
    Jul 22, 2008
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    492
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    Denver
    Thanks for the tips! The toothpick idea is good.

    At this point I am just playing around. I'm dabbling with redoing my fairing now, my plan is to make female molds eventually so I can vacuum bag the final pieces so removing the foam should not be necessary. But it seems like having gel coat, preferably the super hard tooling kind inside of the mold is best. The only way I see that as being possible is to shape the foam, then put a layer or two of matt over the foam and bondo as necessary before I can start making the female mold. Or maybe you can just apply bondo directly to the foam then prime and sand. I will have to play with it, but any suggestions are welcome.

    Eventually I would love to make rear tanks similar to this, http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=611461 and maybe even move the air box to where the tank is now. But......that is a lot to say the least and I have a lot to learn.

    Thanks again!

    -Zach
  19. bluestar

    bluestar misfit

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    N.E. Louisiana
    Very cool build. The bike has come a long way from what you started with. :clap :clap
  20. yokesman

    yokesman Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 12, 2008
    Oddometer:
    556
    foam cuts nicely with a bread knife.