DR650 valve adj. first service

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by dieseldave24v, Sep 18, 2007.

  1. randomlogic

    randomlogic Adventurer

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    Should have used this thread instead of starting my own.

    A few questions in regards to the adjusting the valves:

    1. Is the intake valve the one nearest to the carbs and exhaust nearest to exhaust pipe or vice versa?

    2. When doing the adjustment is it better to be in the lower range 0.08mm or higher ranger range of 0.13 for intake valve.Or should it just be in the middle around 0.10mm?

    3. I am slightly confused when in my search when the piston is in compression stroke? (searching for some other guides sort of confused me) Should I just assume when I see the "T" on the magneto rotor as described in the service guide it is ok then?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated for this newby.
    #21
  2. dieseldave24v

    dieseldave24v Wish I was riding

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    My .02
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  3. Freebird5150

    Freebird5150 Adventurer

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    Awesome post Dave.. I always forget the factory specs at adjustment time and have to hunt or call 4 them. Wonder why they are not in the owners manual.. maybe to force us to buy a service manual.. BTW Ive tried to download a service manual but all links I tried to no avail.. Anyone got a service manual link that works? Thanks Dave for taking the time and quality pics..
    #23
  4. dieseldave24v

    dieseldave24v Wish I was riding

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    no problem. I dont have the link, but I do have the manual. Electronic. IF you know a way for me to get it to you just tell me how. I am not the best with computers, but I do know that it is to big for email.
    #24
  5. Freebird5150

    Freebird5150 Adventurer

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    just went out and checked mine, been since 600 mile since i looked, now at 5400, all have clearance cold but seem tight.. cant find my damn feeler guage.. going to get a guage now.. please refresh my memory, intake and exhaust min amd max please sir? Most bikes have it on a sticker under the seat.. hmm I have a corbin seat...
    #25
  6. Freebird5150

    Freebird5150 Adventurer

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    Dealer says specs 4 dr650 are

    intake .003-.005 inches or .08mm-.13mm
    exhaust .0067-.0087 inches or .17-.22mm
    #26
  7. rivercreep

    rivercreep Banned

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    The most important "caution" here that I want to reitterate that some people wont understand is about that "TDC" line up in that little sight hole.
    On a single cylinder engine that mark will pass the window 2 times.
    Once on the compression stroke and once on the intake stroke that draws in your air/fuel mixture.
    If you remove the crankshaft plate and use the socket method to turn the engine over, you can tell you're on TDC of the compression stroke by putting a finger into a spark plug hole (only remove 1 spark plug) and feeling for escaping air.
    "caution" #2 only use anti-seize designed for use on aluminum or you can damage those allow threads anyway.
    "caution" #3 it's better to have your specs on the loose side (still within spec though) than too tight.
    Too tight and the valves wont properly seat against the heads and you'll "burn" the valves because they need that contact with the head to dissipate heat.
    GREAT JOB! for the time you took to make this information available to the Noobies though! I hate seeing dealerships getting rich for such a simple procedure.
    #27
  8. Freebird5150

    Freebird5150 Adventurer

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    Got mine set and found the intakes were fine, but the exhaust had tightened up just a tad. I set mine in the middle of the range intake @ .10mm and exhaust @.20mm . I think setting them at one end of the range or the other is personal opinion, and I agree with both arguments, but it also has alot to do with how high rpms u run your engine. Exhaust valves tend to tighten up from high rpm. If you can find feelers with an angle, makes it alot easier to get a reading. I bent mine on the ends so they would not bind when checking the clearance.
    #28
  9. dieseldave24v

    dieseldave24v Wish I was riding

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    for you wish you could ride
    #29
  10. u wish u could ride

    u wish u could ride SHELTON CONNECTICUT.

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    thanks.
    #30
  11. doc riverz

    doc riverz anatra di seduta

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    Dear dieseldave24v, thanks for making good ju-ju with this thread. Spreading the knowledge is oh-so-good.
    #31
  12. TheCowboy

    TheCowboy back in the saddle again

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    Just doing my first service... The dealership also quoted me $300 - which means their shop rate must be about $150 an hour. WOW! My shop rate is only $80.00 an hour and I work on Airplanes!

    Anywho, thanks for the info as it is not found in the owners manual and they did not have a shop manual for sale at the dealership... guess I better order one..


    "Save a horse, ride a cowboy!" :D

    I just wanna ride! :ricky
    #32
  13. greer

    greer Long timer

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  14. switchback

    switchback Eatin' Dirt Since 1982

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    The first time I adjusted the valves, after removing the spark plug I noticed that dirt and sand is easily trapped in the recess where the spark plug goes. The dirt can easily fall into the cylinder if you are not careful. My solution is to either use a shop-vac to suck out the dirt or an air compressor to blow it away before removing the plug.
    #34
  15. Bucho

    Bucho Long timer

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    Thanks for the help, I did a valve adjustment myself for the first time on my DR.

    I used to do them on BMW twins, it seemed easier back then. On the DR stuff kept getting in the way. I couldn't get the last bolt on the cover for the exhaust valves. I had to push the oil cooler guard out of the way, was a beotch to get at.

    But all in all, thanks, took me forever, but beats paying for it.
    #35
  16. soboy

    soboy Long timer

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    Great thread. Even though I have never adjusted valves before, I decided to adjust the valves on my DR myself rather than pay the dealer. Got the valve adjusting kit from Jesse and with help from a buddy who has adjusted valves before, we got them done two days ago. My DR has 9000 miles on it and all 4 valves were in spec, but on the loose side - intakes were both .005, exhausts were both .009. I would have probably left them alone, but Jesse said to set them to .004 intake and .008 exhaust, and my pal wanted to show me how to set them, so that is what we did. Also changed out the spark plugs and put new EBC brake pads on the front and rear. It was a fun day of wrenching and very satisfying to know that the work was done right.
    #36
  17. scootertrash

    scootertrash Mobile Homie

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    I just did my valves for the first time (3800 mi) I had a two-ended feeler gauge,.004/.008 and the tappet wrenches. Bike sounds good now, only very light ticking, telling you that they aren't too tight. Great info here! :thumb
    #37
  18. comes naturally

    comes naturally renewed hope

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    So I have a copy of the free shop manual that is posted in this tread (not to mention all over the internet). It appears to be of a '96 model. I know they have changed very little since then, but are the valve clearance specs still the same?
    #38
  19. braindead0

    braindead0 Head Fisherman

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    Anybody know what the correct torque spec is for the rocker lock nuts? Can't find that anywhere.. I usually just use my organic torque wrench, but this is my wife's bike and she'd kill be if we don't do it right ;-)
    #39
  20. UPSam

    UPSam All jacked up on Dew

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    I just turn the rear tire because my cap is stuck and stripped.:twitch
    #40