DR650 valve adj. first service

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by dieseldave24v, Sep 18, 2007.

  1. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    You can get it out by going for a ride, then, when the engine is still hot, turn the plug by driving it with a hammer and chisel, taking care not to hit the threads. It turns pretty easy with the engine hot.


    I overtightened a couple on our DR's, but eventually got them out and replaced them. Tighten only 'till just past finger-tight.
    #41
  2. UPSam

    UPSam All jacked up on Dew

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    Actually I stripped the other plug. The crank end. I am leaving it.
    #42
  3. Hawaii_Rider

    Hawaii_Rider Been here awhile

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    Should you be able to hear the valves ticking if they are properly adjusted?
    #43
  4. kliff

    kliff Retired Ole Phart

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    Don't think mine is stripped, more like galled. Bought the bike used, it had the original 600 done at a dealer. Now the plug won't even buge with an 18" cheater bar.

    I just do the rear tire deal too. Takes 2 people, is a little inconvenient, but what the heck, 3000 miles, everything A-OK at .004/.008, I'll check again at 10,000.

    PS, great tutorial too!
    #44
  5. DSdave

    DSdave red line or blow mine

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    Should valves be adjusted to the tighter or looser of the range?

    I just read that too tight can cause idle problems due to longer durations, mostly stalling at stoplights, true or not?
    What other differences does it make?

    On the flywheel, there is a line with the letter T to the right of it. So I'm guessing TDC is when the line is centered in the sight hole?
    #45
  6. rivercreep

    rivercreep Banned

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    Sorry to sound snotty but, this question has already been answered.
    In regards to the question about stoplight stalling, if things are within the specified specs, (not too tight or loose) stalling isn't an issue and if it IS....something else is wrong. (most likely, carb-float heighth).
    #46
  7. DSdave

    DSdave red line or blow mine

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    I read the burnt valves post, it just didn't stick. Do not adjust too tight. What bad things happen if they are too loose?

    Exhaust valves on mine want to stay closed and make it hard to get a feeler gauge in.
    is it okay to use a screwdriver to apply some light pressure to hold the rocker arm while you check the gap? Or should it be held up by hand only?
    #47
  8. DSdave

    DSdave red line or blow mine

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    Is it the compression release thats making it hard to adjust the exhaust valves?
    #48
  9. sonic reducer

    sonic reducer Been here awhile

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    valvetrain wear

    there is a phrase though: slappy valves are happy valves
    #49
  10. DSdave

    DSdave red line or blow mine

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    Can't say I've heard that before, but I like it.

    I thought that was used while actually adjusting the valves when I first read it. After it sunk in I understand.
    #50
  11. buick driver

    buick driver Adventurer

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    #1 on the kit from Jesse, for me it made it a lot easier setting the clearances. The plug covering the flywheel (side cover) is a very soft metal. When I put the allen key in to remove it, it rounded right out. A chisel and hammer anti clockwise got it unthreaded. I put a bit of anti seize on the new one, it came out the next time without any complications.
    #51
  12. ShadyRascal

    ShadyRascal Master of None

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    Yes, good call. Just did my valves a week or two ago, but I'll use that advice on my next adjustment on one of my bikes.
    #52
  13. atpalmer

    atpalmer Broken

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    according to http://dr650.zenseeker.net/ValveAdjustment.htm
    Pre 1996 DR650 Valve clearance specifications:
    <table id="table4"> <tbody><tr> <td>IN.</td> <td>0.08 - 0.13mm (0.003 - 0.005in)</td> </tr> <tr> <td>EX. </td> <td>0.08 - 0.13mm (0.003 - 0.005in)</td> </tr> </tbody></table>
    1996- DR650 Valve clearance (when cold):
    <table id="table5"><tbody><tr> <td>IN.</td> <td>0.08 - 0.13mm (0.003 - 0.005in)</td> </tr> <tr> <td>EX. </td> <td>0.17 - 0.22mm (0.007 - 0.009in)</td></tr></tbody></table>
    #53
  14. motosaint

    motosaint LTLYLTL!

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    Um, a simple little crescent wrench works just fine...

    #54
  15. motosaint

    motosaint LTLYLTL!

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    I did my first time at 28000 miles :D Two of the valves were just a nudge off. Not a big deal. It felt a little rough but not overly so.

    I also did mine at the closer end of tight and it's running great. Much smoother. I hear a little bit of ticking going on so I think it's good. I also like the kit that Kientz sells. I bought this little valve 'wrench' that procycle.us sells and it didn't work well at all for me. The knob version is much better.

    #55
  16. Aerocycle

    Aerocycle Been here awhile

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    Is it necessary to have one of those special tools from Keintech, or Procycle to check the clearance? I was going to do it this weekend but I don't want to have to wait/order up a tool. To me, it looks like I don't need it, the "special tool" just makes it simpler?
    #56
  17. Escaped

    Escaped Been here awhile

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    Correct special "tool" is not necessary it just makes the adjustment easier. The hard of the job is just getting around to doing it. :)


    Sent from my MB520 using Tapatalk
    #57
  18. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

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    Minor point, rivercreep, but I believe the TDC mark passes the window at the end of the compression stroke and at the end of the EXHAUST (not the intake) stroke.

    The TDC piston position occurs twice on each cycle of a 4-stroke engine, regardless of the number of cylinders, AFAIK.
    #58
  19. ride4321

    ride4321 Long timer

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    Like so many here I stripped the aluminum cover when I tried to do my first valve adjustment. I saw where someone suggested using a chisel to break it loose and I tried that. It cuts into the cover easily but I couldn't get enough grip to get the damn thing off by pounding on ti. Try this. Once you get some chiseled away with a chisel pound a carpenters nail set tool in to the fitting. That will dig in deep enough to get a good grab on the piece. Then you can just tap it out with the nail set tool, worked great! The hole to the right is the nail set hole. All the other mess is from the chisel.

    [​IMG]

    Now, after the bike cools down over night I can check the valves easily. I used anti seize on the new fitting BTW. It had better work!
    #59
  20. Klay

    Klay dreaming adventurer

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    Just don't overtighten. Leave it at just beyond finger-tight. I've never applied any anti-seize after the original troubles...I'm just careful with it.

    You also have to be very careful with the oil filter cover screws. Use a short wrench and torque them very lightly.
    #60