DR650se FCR Carburetor Conversion

Discussion in 'Australia' started by kezzajohnson, Mar 1, 2014.

  1. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,199
    Location:
    Cairns - Queensland Australia
    Installed the new vaccum release plate and seal on the weekend.

    Fits well and works perfectly. No noticeable difference to the OEM job. I am going to monitor the wear rate to establish whether (and when) I need to get a spare to keep handy but I suspect and would hope it will last well beyond that of the OEM one.

    [​IMG]

    Above plate was from here and was in my mailbox exactly 14 days after I ordered it.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/271403088616?item=271403088616&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:AU:1120&vxp=mtr

    And the seal for it was from here:

    http://www.showandgo.com.au/



    My bike is now running the best it ever has. Incredibly smooth and the power delivery is just awesome from right down low. What used to feel like lugging the bike in top gear at town speeds (60-80km/h) with road gearing is now just perfect and I am not having to chop up and down gears all the time. At 100ks an hour and beyond, it just wants to keep pulling further than what I am game to go because of the 'law'. :freaky
    #21
  2. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,199
    Location:
    Cairns - Queensland Australia
    Hey Steve,

    Where do you source your filters from ? (both fuel filter and the ones on vent hoses). I am having trouble finding anything suitable but what you have looks great.
    #22
  3. DR Steve

    DR Steve Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2012
    Oddometer:
    350
    Location:
    Melbourne, Australia
    Hi Kezza,

    Vent filters are Ryco Z675S from memory. They are 3/16" barbs and available from Repco, Bursons or similar.
    The fuel ones are much harder to get in 5/16". That one came from the bike shop for some rediculous price I can't recall now - have a look on ebay. Not a lot of room to play with unfortunately, allthough there is much more room on the new bike with the Acerbis than the old bike with the IMS tank. The Acerbis petcock sits much further forward.

    Heres a pic from the old bike with the IMS. I bought some right angle filters with a ProCycle order. Turned out they are only 1/4" filters, so I glued some nylon air line over the barbs to make it work with 5/16" hose. Wasn't a pretty set up but it worked ok.
    [​IMG]

    Last tank full averaged 24.2 klms/ltr with a good mix of riding. Pretty happy with that given I don't ride to save fuel at all !
    #23
  4. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
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    Cheers Steve. I'll have a look see...

    That's good economy alright. Go the FCR !!!

    I like what you've done to your countershaft sprocket cover on that bike.
    #24
  5. Dano85

    Dano85 Dual Sport Rider

    Joined:
    May 15, 2013
    Oddometer:
    49
    Location:
    SW Queensland, Australia
    ..................................................................:eek1
    #25
  6. GodSilla

    GodSilla I did that.

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2006
    Oddometer:
    8,539
    Location:
    Downtown S.E. NSW
    I just purchased a 39mm FCR for my XR600R, this is all good background reading. Thanks fellers, keep it coming.
    #26
  7. BergDonk

    BergDonk Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    4,737
    Location:
    Snowy Mountains Oz
    I have 4 on the bench ATM, so plenty of jets, needles and spares. Bring it up the hill and we'll have a play if you want. I tolerate Hondas, especially XRs.
    #27
  8. GodSilla

    GodSilla I did that.

    Joined:
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    Sweet. Thanks bloke, I'm just waiting for the postie to deliver it, prolly later in the week.

    And yes, XR's are most tolerable.:D
    #28
  9. Dano85

    Dano85 Dual Sport Rider

    Joined:
    May 15, 2013
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    SW Queensland, Australia
    Apologies for my previous post; i finally had the fcr installed and was left speechless. Bloody good fun!! My jetting ended up being identical to kezza with:

    155 main jet
    40 pilot jet
    85 pilot air jet
    85 starter jet
    35 leak jet
    NCVT needle on 2.5
    Fuel screw 2.25 turns out (R&D as suggested)

    I ended up thinking better of installing myself and got the Dalby Moto crew to install it and get it running spot on. Cant rate their service highly enough.
    #29
  10. Dano85

    Dano85 Dual Sport Rider

    Joined:
    May 15, 2013
    Oddometer:
    49
    Location:
    SW Queensland, Australia
    Quick noob question - with my 30L safari tank fitted do i need to turn the fuel tap off now or able to leave it on when the bike is not in use?
    #30
  11. BergDonk

    BergDonk Long timer

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    Snowy Mountains Oz
    Presumably you have no vacuum operated fuel tap with he Safari. Be unusual if you did.

    You don't NEED to turn off the taps, you have 2 with the Safari, but its always good practice to to turn them off after each day's ride because if there is a minor leak in the float assembly, and the overflow is blocked, if the inlet valves are open and the cylinder fills with petrol. A few ducks to line up. If the overflow is working as it should, then it'll just puddle underneath and you'll smell it.

    Just get in the habit of on and off once a day.
    #31
  12. GodSilla

    GodSilla I did that.

    Joined:
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    Maaaate, if your float decides not to seat the needle properly you could lose a tankful of fuel overnight eh. All it takes is a tiny bit of grit.

    You should make it a habit to turn the fuel taps off at the end of each riding day. Murphy's Law states that the first time you forget to do this, you will be a long way from the nearest fuel supply and it will all leak out.
    #32
  13. Dano85

    Dano85 Dual Sport Rider

    Joined:
    May 15, 2013
    Oddometer:
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    SW Queensland, Australia
    Thanks boys - off it is
    #33
  14. ArgoBloke

    ArgoBloke DR Butcher

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2011
    Oddometer:
    25
    Location:
    Essendon
    Hi all,
    I'm trying to source the parts I need for the carb upgrade, but I'm bloody confused with the different terms.

    Is the part you call PAJ what the catalogue refers to as Slow Air Jet (N424-33-XXX)? And is this Item 30 on the exploded isometric?:huh
    I've got a FCR MX 39 BTW....
    #34
  15. BergDonk

    BergDonk Long timer

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    Yep, PAJ = Slow Air Jet
    #35
  16. ArgoBloke

    ArgoBloke DR Butcher

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    Essendon
    Cheers for that BD.
    #36
  17. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,199
    Location:
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    Made up a new mounting point for the R & D extended fuel screw. Even easier to play with now. Hopefully not too easy for the boys to play tricks on me with.

    [​IMG]
    #37
  18. ArgoBloke

    ArgoBloke DR Butcher

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2011
    Oddometer:
    25
    Location:
    Essendon
    A couple of dumb ass questions (there's more of these coming!:lol3) :
    Can I use the stock throttle cables or do I need a different set?
    Also, as I understand it, the curve on the slide needs to be filed by 5mm: Is this absolutely essential or can I leave that alone?

    AB
    #38
  19. BergDonk

    BergDonk Long timer

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    I haven't touched the slide on mine, and feel no need.

    Throttle cables depends on the carb to some extent. On the 2 I have played with, it was a matter of making some sort of spacer to then be able to use the stockers.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #39
  20. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

    Joined:
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    Oddometer:
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    You're best off leaving the slide alone. It works fine how it is with the right jetting setup.

    Re the cables. You should be able to use your stock cables but some adaption will be required depending on exactly which model FCR you have.

    Mine is a 39mm FCR MX off a YFZ450 quad which has a single throttle but cable but the carby is equipped with the pulley setup for push pull cables.
    I had to drill out, slot and thread the blank push cable housing (top one) as seen in the before and after photos below. Prior to installation of the carby, you need to spin the carby to thread the push cable end into the carby.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I've got a photo somewhere but with the push cable, both cable end nuts are on the outside of the carb body and the pull cable one nut inside, one nut outside.
    #40