DR650SE Index Topic #10- CARBURETOR/INTAKE

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Krusty ..., Nov 8, 2010.

  1. badweatherbiker

    badweatherbiker Been here awhile

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    thanks for all the help guys, got a bunch of numbers going on here though. 14.7mm .47mm, 58":huh lol
    I have a measurer that reads 32nds or mm so am I going the 14.7 route or as Sage says .47?
    I gues I am still confused
  2. badweatherbiker

    badweatherbiker Been here awhile

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    2. Slowly rotate the carb toward upside down. Somewhere past 90*, the float will pivot toward the carb body, stopping when the tang engages the needle. This is not 'see-able', it's hidden in the plastic. This is when you want the float edge seam to be parallel to the bowl 0-ring surface; pic 2

    This is where you'd measure the float height, but parallel is easier.
    From the manual:
    Float height: 14.7 +/- 1.0mm (0.58 +/- 0.04 in)
    -as you slowly rotate the carb vertically, the float will drop into the bowl. when this happens you want these 2 edges to be straight.


    [​IMG]

    So at this point where the tang first contacts the little spring loaded pin on the needle, this is where I should take my measurement?
  3. badweatherbiker

    badweatherbiker Been here awhile

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    when the float drops into the bowl should the needle be seated all the way down into the chamber or half way out, I can get a parallel either way

    [​IMG]
  4. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    .47 is a typo; add a 1 and move the decimal one to the right = 14.7mm
    14.7mm = .58" SAE

    When the tang contacts the pin on the needle AND gently seats the needle, but before the pin compresses into the needle. You want to measure the point where the needle would stop fuel flow.
  5. Cobain

    Cobain night owl

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    Made a screen for the air box to keep those pesky fishflies outta there. :evil

    [​IMG]
  6. basketcase

    basketcase lifelong reject fixer

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    I ran up on a 35F0x can locally and have it installed with the stock header and the 2-bros midpipe. Here is the set-up as it is currently parked in the carport:

    Stock carb and needle
    Extended mixture screw
    Slide drilled
    Snorkel pulled

    No other mods to fuel or intake system.

    Since installing the new can the bike idles fast after it is warmed up. I expect I can take care of that with the mixture screw and the idle adjustment. But I've not run a tank of fuel through it or pulled the plugs to get a read on whether it is now running lean.

    Before I get into all that, what suggestions can the brain trust provide about possible jetting changes?

    Thanks in advance,
    Rick
  7. Cobain

    Cobain night owl

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    155 jet without snorkel, 160 without side cover. Thats what I've come up with from my experience. Ive just installed a gsxr so we will see how that goes with the 160.
  8. sagedrifter

    sagedrifter Southern Explorer

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    As long as you keep the air box intact your fine. The exhaust doesn't add air so its fine. But, your missing out on things. Add a TM40 and cut the air box.

    :D
  9. Cobain

    Cobain night owl

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    That'd be great! anybody wanna donate one?:D Haven't looked into getting one too much, what are the advantages?
  10. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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  11. Nessman

    Nessman Evangelical Atheist

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    Not sure where to put this so I'll put it here.

    My choke is hanging up, I've cleaned out the "well" in the carb a couple of times and it helps but it only lasts a little while. I've been starting without the choke all summer but it's getting cold, time to fix it.

    Am I more likely fighting crud in the choke well or a dodgy cable that needs to be replaced with a push/pull knob from Procycle?

    The Procycle knob looks to be recessed, is it difficult to actuate?
  12. sagedrifter

    sagedrifter Southern Explorer

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    Yep some oem cables get sticky. I'm still using the original on my 07 and I lived on the coast also.

    If mine goes bad I'll get the short one from Procycle. PC also has metal choke nuts that replace the easy to strip plastic ones....
  13. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    This tapered piece has been found in an occasional float bowl. (photo thanks to Alanthealan) :freaky
    [​IMG]

    It goes here. From Motolab: "The tapered end goes in first. It may want to fall out again. If it does, try a little bit of super glue."
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  14. BergDonk

    BergDonk Old Enough to Know Better

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  15. Tinker1980

    Tinker1980 Doesn't ask why, only asks how

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    I have a nicely farkled 2009 DR650, and while it runs like striped ass gorilla, I find I am not getting the gas mileage mentioned other places for this bike. My mods include:

    Tm40 carb
    Header pipe, I believe it is an FMF.
    Supertrapp muffler with 9 plates
    Side cover removed from airbox.

    The best I can seem to get is 39 mpg. No fuel in the oil, no problems other than an occasional issue with extended idling. I weigh 230 and tend to run a bit too fast (70-75 mph) on the highway.
  16. rpet

    rpet Awesometown

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    tires?
  17. Tinker1980

    Tinker1980 Doesn't ask why, only asks how

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    Shinko 705's, for now. Aired up properly as well.
  18. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

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    What pressure is "properly"?
  19. Tinker1980

    Tinker1980 Doesn't ask why, only asks how

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    35 front 35 rear.

    I was incorrect about the air box - the side cover is present, the top is cut out. I think the problem may have been my air filter - I took it out today after riding home from work, and went to clean it (K&N) and it nearly held water. :huh Got it soaped and cleaned out, it is drying out right now. I'll oil it up and run a tankful or two through it to see if there is a change, but I'm betting there will be a noticeable change in the idle.
  20. dflow

    dflow Been here awhile

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    I have used the following method of checking the fuel level of a couple of DRs recently. It's a handy way to check, compare or establish a baseline to reference later. The picture shows the stock BST carb but any carb with a drain nipple and screw on the bowl will work. Attach a length of clear tubing and loop it upwards and hold it there by whatever means. The upper end of the tubing is left open. Now open the drain screw on the carb bowl and set your petcock to prime (if stock) or on/res (if aftermarket). Allow any air bubbles to clear and view the fuel level. Be sure to level the bike and square-up your camera to avoid distortion when registering the level relative to features on the carb body.
    [​IMG]
    You still may need to open the carb to adjust the float height if yours seems to be far from the image shown but at least you know before hand.
    I have not checked the float height on either of the bikes mentioned by traditional means in well over 30k miles each so there is no assurance that they are still within the acceptable range. That being said, I have had no issues that would indicate a problem and so it serves as a sound baseline check for me.
    I wanted to add that Derek, of Motolab, had stated the proper level is 1.5mm above the float bowl/carb body mating face.