DR650SE Index Topic #12- ENGINE/CHAINS & SPROCKETS

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Krusty ..., Nov 11, 2010.

  1. newride

    newride Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    706
    Location:
    San Fran
    Thank you. Sorry for the obvious question. Doing a lot of firsts today on the DR.:D
    #61
  2. M1Jeep

    M1Jeep Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,987
    Location:
    Lakewood, CA
    It's all good. Happy trails!
    #62
  3. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

    Joined:
    May 29, 2002
    Oddometer:
    21,845
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    How to align front and rear sprockets:

    the whole notch on the axel adjuster and swingarm is not a 100% exact & 100% precise system. everything is not built to those exact tolerances.


    this tool should be in every home mechanics box.
    http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4876/i/motion-pro-chain-alignment-tool?SiteID=Google_PLA995&WT.mc_ID=10012&esvt=0-GOUSC&esvadt=9-0-3886819-1&esvaid=30548&kw={keyword}&gclid=CK2Q3p-Pp7oCFQVBQgod_RcABQ

    remove your chain guard.
    you attach it on the rear sprocket and point the arm down the chain to the front. after you've established the proper chain slack (by adjusting both left and right side to the same adjustment notch). you then mark the left/drive side notch with a black marker. this is your fixed side as this this adjustment is critical for proper chain slack.

    then with your tool in place and looking down it and the chain towards the front sprocket, you adjust the right/disc side notch so the arm of the tool and the chain are as parallel as possible. sometimes this is the same notch as the left sometimes is 1 or even 2 + or - of the left side. doesn't matter as long as the tool arm and chain are parallel.

    when you've found the proper right side notch hand snug the axle bolt (you did upgrade to the updated Fuji nut style from PC right? vrs the old crap style castle nut). then torque to 72ftlbs and mark the right notch with a permanent marker too.

    now your sprockets are aligned to each other and your chain lasts longer. by marking both notches you can quickly get back to this adjustment if you need to change a tire. over time your chain will stretch and so move each notch up 1 respectively to tighten your chain.
    #63
  4. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

    Joined:
    May 29, 2002
    Oddometer:
    21,845
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    a recap to ensure proper chain life.

    DRs might not be 100% accurately build to assume the same and left adjustment notch is aligned. check it and then mark your adjuster mark with a permanant marker.

    ideally you 1st check left/drive side adjuster (with bike on side stand) and adjust that one for proper chain slack. then lift bike in the air and adjust right side adjuster for proper chain alignment. mine is always off 1 notch.

    http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4876/i/motion-pro-chain-alignment-tool

    <iframe width="480" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/u7f9y0MFIPY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
    #64
  5. fink

    fink Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2014
    Oddometer:
    97
    Location:
    Pt noarlunga south /south australia
    thanks heaps guys ,cheers
    #65
  6. fink

    fink Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2014
    Oddometer:
    97
    Location:
    Pt noarlunga south /south australia
    Can you give comments on how the install went ,any problems, and results plus your opinion after riding it and does it start easy, fuel usage, and reliability
    #66
  7. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    10,431
    Location:
    SE Denver-ish
    I found this in the megathread, thanks to Badguy: :freaky

    #67
  8. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    10,431
    Location:
    SE Denver-ish
    Suzuki intended the shoulder to face inward.

    Right:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Wrong:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #68
  9. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    10,431
    Location:
    SE Denver-ish
    Flywheel Puller

    '96-up require a puller with 50mm x 1.5 RH threads.
    #69
  10. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    10,431
    Location:
    SE Denver-ish
    On page 3-31 in the service manual, this drawing is reversed.

    Wrong: :deal
    [​IMG]

    Correct, other than now the text is reversed. :patch
    [​IMG]
    #70
  11. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    10,431
    Location:
    SE Denver-ish
    If your counter shaft seal leaks, it can be replaced. Just remove the front sprocket for access. Be careful not to damage the seal behind it. Clean the alum thoroughly with something that doesn't leave a film. Seat the new seal flush with the case, don't countersink it.

    I collected these posts from the big DR thread since this comes up occasionally. :freaky

    Photo thx to PDX Alamo:
    [​IMG]

    Thanks Jeff :beer

    Here's the hole and the inner seal that you don't want to damage ... photo thanks to Emmbeedee

    [​IMG]
    #71
  12. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    10,431
    Location:
    SE Denver-ish
    Thanks to willtill on DRRiders:

    [​IMG]
    #72
  13. nzrian

    nzrian Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    823
    Location:
    Queenstown , NZ
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]image by rian munro, on Flickr
    this is my reduced port throat and flattened port floor to increase velocity of fuel/air charge.
    i used jb weld as per mototune usa, it seems to work really good.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]image by rian munro, on Flickr


    [​IMG]image by rian munro, on Flickr


    [​IMG]image by rian munro, on Flickr


    also put a JE piston in, high compression.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]image by rian munro, on Flickr

    this is a shot of aligning the cam sprocket/cam timing
    the piston must be at TDC.

    [​IMG]image by rian munro, on Flickr

    [​IMG]

    also the cam lobes should be pointing down, and the dowel at 2 o'clock.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]image by rian munro, on Flickr

    hope these pics help someone out.
    #73
    joelio likes this.
  14. nzrian

    nzrian Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    823
    Location:
    Queenstown , NZ
    this is what i used to hone the bore before installing HC piston and the new rings.
    [​IMG]image by rian munro, on Flickr
    [​IMG]

    i broke the piston rings in as per motoman, and it works a treat, highly recommended.

    this is a shot of the crank and rod, notice blue heat affected area on the crank cheek, this is from the suzuki assembly process.

    [​IMG]image by rian munro, on Flickr

    this is the old piston, 40,000 km and it looks good as new.

    [​IMG]image by rian munro, on Flickr
    #74
  15. Midpack

    Midpack Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2010
    Oddometer:
    164
    Location:
    Las Cruces, NM
    I want to install a high comp piston and while at it installing oversize valves. My reasoning being I like to get more low end torque and a little more top end. A cam would kill any torque gain from increased valve overlap. Larger valve would increase air flow which should help throughout the rev range.
    Has anyone tried this or does it even make sense?:huh I have already installed a full FMF exhaust, open the air box, and re jetted. No I don't want the expense of a 790 kit. The helpful person at Procycle told me that the 790 charts are done with a cam installed.
    #75
  16. nzrian

    nzrian Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    823
    Location:
    Queenstown , NZ
    hey Midpack, while i had the head off installing the high comp piston, i did some port work.


    i followed the motoman instructions from here.
    http://mototuneusa.com/think_fast_intake_porting.htm

    here is a pic of the finished article.
    the idea is to make the port floor higher, thereby reducing the size of the port at the choke/turning point and increasing the flow. Much like a carb venturi.
    this in turn "supercharges the intake mixture into the combustion area.


    [​IMG]image by rian munro, on Flickr

    this is the link to the build
    http://drriders.com/topic12198.html

    long story short, it works real well.
    so with regards to the bigger valves, i reckon keep them stock, to keep up the air flow.:norton
    #76
  17. Midpack

    Midpack Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2010
    Oddometer:
    164
    Location:
    Las Cruces, NM
    NZRIAN, Thanks for the info and link. It makes sense. I know of a second head that I can play with. I might install the piston first, then work over the head. That way I'll know the effect of the port work.
    #77
  18. nzrian

    nzrian Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    823
    Location:
    Queenstown , NZ
    keep us posted on what your impressions of the piston then the head are.:evil
    #78
  19. Midpack

    Midpack Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2010
    Oddometer:
    164
    Location:
    Las Cruces, NM
    Nzian, Piston installed, what a difference! Have 400 miles on and did a oil change. Crisp throttle response and freer revving. Bottom end stronger with better passing speed on top. My son commented "It doesn't feel like a tractor anymore". Don't think I'll work on the head since I am quite happy with the piston results, but will keep your head work on file though. Thank you for you input on the thread....
    #79
  20. villageidiot

    villageidiot Long timer

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2010
    Oddometer:
    3,787
    Location:
    Orange County, CA
    #80