DR650SE Index Topic#13- PROBLEMS/FAILURES

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Krusty ..., Nov 11, 2010.

  1. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    10,185
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    SE Denver-ish
    Torque Limiter

    mx_rob said:
    "Also be aware that your '98 model has (or had if it's already been addressed) a solid gear on the starter drive instead of the torque limiter that was installed on the 97's and about half of the 99's through 2010. Suzuki thought they'd save some money eliminating this component but I'm pretty sure it cost them a lot more in the end. Here's some more info on it from Kientech.com. http://www.kientech.com/DR650TorqueLimiter.html Major engine damage can occur if the right combination of shut down sequences takes place without the torque limiter."

    Edit to add:
    The OMG Torque Limiter Thread:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=357012

    ETA: 6-28-2016

    I got this info from Kientech's website as he's retiring. (already linked above)

    Contact a Suzuki dealer
    You need the following part numbers:
    1 #12600-12D01 torque limiter
    2 #12618-31D01 bushings
    2 #08211-10221 thrust washers
    1 #11483-32E00 magneto cover gasket

    DR650 update on the 650 grenade issue. 1998 and early '99 were equipped with a solid idler gear that created a problem when the engine kicked back during shutdown, breaking out the gear bearing bosses. This also breaks out and destroys the left case half due to its ridged design. The case halves always come in matched pairs and cost in excess of $650.00 not to mention labor charges to change all internal parts into new cases. This should not be taken lightly. '96 and '97 had the torque limiter gear that is designed to slip due to a preloaded slip clutch arrangement. Well they went back to this design in mid '99 after vin # X2100561 so if your Vin # predates this you should consider installing this updated item shown above.

    Internet photo

    [​IMG]
    #21
  2. Foot dragger

    Foot dragger singletracker

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2006
    Oddometer:
    13,737
    Location:
    chico,just below rag dump(nor-cal)
    My 03 DR is trouble free at 24,000 miles,I do beat it kinda hard and wouldnt be surprised if it hiccuped some time.
    I just bought a 10,000 mile old 96 DR cheap that runs great but cant be registered due to CA penaltys for the PO not registering it for a couple or 3 years.
    So Ive got a spare everything for the 03 bike,I like that idea.
    #22
  3. bigskydrift

    bigskydrift dual sport hooligan

    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2007
    Oddometer:
    464
    Location:
    Missoula
    I only have about 7000 miles on my '06.....the only thing to give out has been the horn!
    #23
  4. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

    Joined:
    May 29, 2002
    Oddometer:
    21,582
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
    i replace mine with the TPI euro horn because that was my greatest fear. :lol3
    ...the TPI is nice and louder.
    #24
  5. kezzajohnson

    kezzajohnson kezza

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,439
    Location:
    Cairns - Queensland Australia
    1. Sticky/tight choke cable causing engine to die when handlebars turned full left so have now replaced cable with Procycle choke knob

    2. Oil leak from Cam Chain tensioner at 24,000km roughly-cause unknown but maybe slightly overfull oil and long trip/high revs constantly. Engine to TDC on compression, remove oil pipes and exhaust header, retract and removed CCT, remove old gasket, clean up gasket surfaces and fitted new gasket with gasket goo also. refit and 6000kms later no oil leaks-clean as a babies bottom.

    3. Not really a problem in most cases but OEM wheel bearings only single sided seals-no good if you do water crossings regularly like I do, so have replaced with quality (not cheap) bearings front and rear with seals both sides.

    4. Blown brake light bulb about 18,000kms-replaced easily

    5. Horn. It didn't stop working but fell off whilst riding and lost it. replaced with $10.00 supercheap auto number that is louder but smaller that OEM.

    6. Never experienced a problem with, but based on experience of others here, I have removed upper chain roller and put a tapered head bolt in there.

    7. The Dealer that I bought it from ! Bad experience from the start including trying to put me off buying the DR650 in the first place and to buy another bike. I have only ever had the bike serviced by me, myself and I and I probably would have had more problems by now if I had taken it to the same Dealer to have serviced. Under new ownership now but I still don't trust them.


    NO other problems-I love my DR and am glad I bought it and not another bike.
    #25
  6. rederik

    rederik n00b

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2011
    Oddometer:
    2
    Thank you for pointing this out - I will remove it on my DR650, 1998 immediately.

    Rederik
    http://globetrotters.org/mc


    #26
  7. rederik

    rederik n00b

    Joined:
    Feb 8, 2011
    Oddometer:
    2
    Well, it happened to me - my DR650 1998 misfired on stop, and bang, a chunk of the crankcasing. Now I am hoping to find out in advance how many man-hours it woudl take (or the cost by a mechanic) to take it all apart and replace the crank casings and fit a torque limiter, before embarking on this project .... or selling it in pieces... :-(

    Regards
    Rederik
    http://globetrotters.org/mc

    #27
  8. LukasM

    LukasM Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2006
    Oddometer:
    5,457
    Location:
    On a RTW ride - currently touring the U.S.
    The same thing recently happened to a member from Chile, so I just tore down my spare engine and shipped him the cases. Took me about 3 hours having never done it before and taking my time, putting it back together would probably be twice that. If you have the parts and tools ready it can definitely be done in a weekend. The manual is pretty good, although it's nice to have somebody experienced looking over your shoulder if you are a novice like me.
    #28
  9. gplassm

    gplassm Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 9, 2009
    Oddometer:
    649
    Location:
    Western Mass
    Just an observation on the starter clutch thing - I noticed that if I stop the engine via the red "stop" button, instead of using the key, engine kick-back is greatly reduced. I do not know why, but it is. Others have mentioned this in the DR650 thread, but noone has been able to tell us why the engine behaves this way.
    #29
  10. shu

    shu ...

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    Location:
    Colorado
    [​IMG] Awesome.

    .........shu
    #30
  11. NJ-Brett

    NJ-Brett Brett

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    Location:
    Southern New Jersey
    1998 with 6000 miles on it and the front brake pads wore out!
    #31
  12. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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  13. plugeye

    plugeye unforgiven

    Joined:
    May 11, 2007
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    4,802
    Location:
    Garland, Texas
    i hear ya. my tires continue to wear out prematurely. waaay before 10k
    #33
  14. 00Buck

    00Buck dirt rules

    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2004
    Oddometer:
    210
    Location:
    South Vancouver Island, BC
    The usual minor issues on my '03 DR650 with 45K. I bought it used in '04 with 3K on it completely stock. It's never seen a dealer, I do all the service and repairs. I love the simplicity and reliability of this model!
    Base gasket leak at 10K. Fork seals twice, rear tail light fell apart- replaced with a DR250 light. Choke cable sticking partly closed- replaced with a part from Jesse. Red stop switch sticks in so I don't use it. Original battery failed last year. Recently the starter is squawking on coast down so I'll have to pull and lube the bushings. I have a lot of accessories and upgrades on my bike now. It serves as both a supermoto and adventure tourer depending on the current setup.
    #34
  15. Retrolaw

    Retrolaw n00b

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1
    Gosh, I wish I had found this website sooner!!

    I have a 2002 DR650SE. It hadn't been ridden much by the previous owners, thats why it's only got 23000km on the clock now. I bought it 2 years ago with 13000km on the clock! Anyway, I noticed oil on the right side crank case cover.

    I washed the bike and took it for a short ride, to see where the oil was coming from. It seemed to be from the back of the cylinder base gasket. So I bought all the gaskets and copper washers that would need to be replaced, to get to the cylinder base gasket. Imagine my disappointment when I stripped everything and found that the little gasket under the cam chain tensioner had a crack in the top half. :doh The oil was running down the left side of the CCT and onto the crank case, just below it, right at the join of the cylinder barrel and the crank case. I didn't notice this, as I only ever looked from the right side of the engine.

    I took the opportunity to get to the neutral light switch and put some service grade locktite on the little screws. The service grade locktite allows you to unscrew the screws, in case you ever need to.

    My cousin in Townsville Australia, sent me a link to this site. He knew about my bike's oil leak and found a thread where the chap had sprinkled talc powder on the engine, to show more easily where the oil was coming from.

    Well the experience gave me an opportunity to check inside the engine and see how the bore and valves were doing. Still only has the criss-cross from the honing in it. I'll feel a lot more confident when we ride from Pietermaritzburg, up to Maputo and back, in June :-)
    #35
  16. Eggsontoast

    Eggsontoast Adventurer

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    Dad's sack
    I've had a few issues on my '96 SE, namely a weeping magneto gasket which put an end to my day when the whole contents started pissing out on to the rear tire.

    The horn became intermittent because of the positioning of the female spade connectors. Make sure you route the wiring back on itself, on the rear side of the horn's mounting bracket to prevent premature life.

    The cylinder base gasket did blow: what started as a weep became a gentle trickle.

    First gear on the driveshaft has worn away it's engagement channels as have the clutch dogs on 5th. Third gear has worn and ground itself past the hardening. Tin or plasma coatings would significantly increase fatigue life.

    The seat has developed a rip where the main cover joins your inside leg, general wear and tear.

    The exhaust's mid pipe bracket has cracked, which is easily fixed by fabricating an equivalent bracket out of some mild steel and welding it back together. I used my tig welder. (Aftermarket exhaust)

    The rubber seal beneath the petrol cap is starting to crack.

    Really that's about it, so overall she's a good'un.

    Pat
    #36
  17. Krusty ...

    Krusty ... What? Me hurry?

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2004
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    7,606
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    Richardson, TX

    How many miles/km on your DR, Pat? What kind of riding do you mostly do? :ear
    #37
  18. Eggsontoast

    Eggsontoast Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 18, 2010
    Oddometer:
    66
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    Dad's sack
    46,000 miles or 73,600 Km's

    Mostly hard road miles: I work as a courier. I'm not going to lie and say the bike has an easy life because she hasn't but considering the use she's put through either as work or leisure, she's been good. I have taken her off-road and plan on doing so in the near future. The stop and start here in London is what's chewed 1st gear, you'd be fine if you were to ride the bike normally and in all the gears on an open road. Incendentally the gear ratios between 1st and 2nd is quite significant so the "jump" will have a certain part in it, all things considered it has to be a compromise between on and off-road.

    The clutch is still well within spec, excellent if you ask me.

    Would I recommend a DR650? Absolutely, in fact there is not one current bike out there that can really do anything better than the DR either on road or dirt, the DR is just right for both disciplines. I do hope that one day Suzuki comes out with the equivalent modern counterpart but even if they did I wouldn't sell the DR.:0-0

    Pat
    #38
  19. GISdood

    GISdood Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2009
    Oddometer:
    817
    Location:
    Prince George, BC
    +1 and then some.

    I was kind of on the fence about this one, and in prep for a road trip last summer I replaced both upper and lower rollers with new bearing-style rollers. About 5000km later, winter rolled around and I decided to tear the DR down to the frame. This is what the rollers looked like. Lower on the left, upper on the right:
    [​IMG]

    The evidence of excessive pressure and wear on the upper roller is pretty damn obvious considering they were both installed at the same time. Needless to say, that upper roller is NOT going back in the frame as I build it back up.
    #39
  20. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    SE Denver-ish
    GISdood:
    Damn!! Hard to argue with that. :eekers
    #40