DR650SE Index Topic#13- PROBLEMS/FAILURES

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Krusty ..., Nov 11, 2010.

  1. GISdood

    GISdood Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 2, 2009
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    817
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    Indeed. One other thing to note regarding the wear on that roller - those 5000 km were ALL highway road trip or commuter miles. No hard hits, no rough roads, no dirt. Just pavement.
    #41
  2. CoastMountainGuy

    CoastMountainGuy Backroads Wanderer

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2008
    Oddometer:
    71
    Location:
    Pemberton, BC
    Clutch cables! For some reason, I'm on my third clutch cable on my '09 with just over 16000km on the odometer. The first was the bike's original that snapped out of the blue and the second cable snapped in the same place (right up near the clutch lever) after being replaced by me as per the manual's instructions in regards to play/slack/etc... These two cables broke within a week of one another and the second was a MotionPro replacement part. This cable was replaced under warranty, but now a third cable has snapped on me just a couple of weeks ago! I'm beginning to suspect a problem with my clutch mount and/or lever... Any ideas?
    #42
  3. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    Lube the cable ball, if it isn't rotating when you pull the lever, snap-O. Maybe? Lube the one on the bottom, too. Never thought it would happen so soon though. :huh

    And I have the same cleaning schedule as your sig. Well, except that the blue ones are fastest. :D
    #43
  4. rivercreep

    rivercreep Banned

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2007
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    3,243
    Location:
    S.E. Pennsylvania (Reading)
    My first was a 91, second a 97 (with paper gaskets) and they never failed, even after 50,000 miles of use. Nor did I have any upper roller problems. (third was an 09 that was stolen after 13,000 miles)
    An old mechanics trick for air cooled VW engines was to always retorque the jug/head bolts to spec after break in. That's what I did on my first 2 DRs. (resultingly, never had a gasket failure)
    Since I didn't have access to the internet back in 97, I never knew about the NSU screws and got lucky I guess. (when I bought my 09, I did loc-tite them).
    In regards to the 96+ upper roller bearings, since I learned on the 91 that Suzuki doesn't know what grease is, while I had everything apart anyway to regrease things...Upon reassembly and with the shock still off, I ran the swingarm through it's range of travel to check for proper chain tension.
    What I found out is that Suzukis recommended settings are too tight (with the upper chain roller in place) so that it binds.

    I set the chain to proper tension (looks incredibly loose compared to their specs while at rest) so that it was just snug while going through its tightest range of travel (when it contacts the upper roller which I left in place).
    Those rollers keep your chain from jumping off the front sprocket when you have your chain adjusted properly with the upper roller in place.
    That's its purpose. (a purpose un-needed if you remove the roller and keep the spec set to their original specs)
    It really is a catch 22 deal. Because, without the roller in place, you can set the chain spec to suzukis recommended specs and be good. With it in place, you have to set it loose to avoid binding and utilize the roller to keep the chain from jumping teeth.:huh
    Basicly, I'm posting this to show you have 2 choices for chain spec with or without rollers. (50,000 miles with no broken pieces showed me it was possible to leave the rollers intact without issue)(but you need to take the time to run the swing arm through it's range of motion to adjust the chain properly)
    I wont argue the above...I'm not disagreeing with the anti-roller crowd, just showing there are 2 options for adjustments and no problems. B.T.W. I'm fat and always bottomed out the stock suspension and put stress on those components.

    Another tip for the back country....
    Carry a hacksaw (or blade and vise grips) enough rubber hose of the right diameter, and 2 hose clamps and a screwdriver.
    Reason, if you smash a hole in that tiny little oil cooler, you can mcguyver a bypass and easily get home without the cooler. I managed to do that on the old 91 and used her for around 10,000 miles with no oil cooler at all. (you can do the same fo the 96+)

    Biggest problem area I've ever had with any of my DR's were loose head bearings. Give the things about 1,ooo miles of break in and then retorque things there as well.

    I'm most curious about those of you who have had electrical issues.
    I always ran grip heaters, 80/100watt headlight bulbs and even an aux 50watt fog light at times and never had any issues with batteries or anything else.:ear
    Makes me wonder IF the DR doesn't do better with a larger load on it's system. (note: I rode almost every day and the battery was always fully charged)
    #44
  5. bumblebee1

    bumblebee1 All bikes are dirt bikes

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    Mar 18, 2008
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    Good info.
    I'm a bit confused here.
    What's a head bearing?
    #45
  6. jessepitt

    jessepitt Ride More

    Joined:
    Oct 20, 2008
    Oddometer:
    993
    Location:
    Redmond Oregon
    Steering head bearing.
    #46
  7. bumblebee1

    bumblebee1 All bikes are dirt bikes

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    D'huh
    Here I am trying to figure out why i've never noticed a bearing in the head.
    #47
  8. CoastMountainGuy

    CoastMountainGuy Backroads Wanderer

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2008
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Pemberton, BC
    Going to replace the clutch perch with a aftermarket from ASV. I'll keep the cable ball lubed, though...makes sense. I lubed the cables, but never the actual ball and socket. Funny...each time it started creaking a bit right before the pull that broke the cable's back!

    You're right, the blue ones do look fast, but the '09s only came in black or white...but that's what I get for waiting so long to buy a DR! Still better colour choices than a KLR...or a Model T:wink:
    #48
  9. Eggsontoast

    Eggsontoast Adventurer

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    May 18, 2010
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    Dad's sack
    #49
  10. CoastMountainGuy

    CoastMountainGuy Backroads Wanderer

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    Oct 26, 2008
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    Pemberton, BC
    Thanks for the clutch cable tips Pat... My third cable just arrived at the local shop, and now I'm just waiting for the ASV lever to arrive (the distributor "forgot" to ship it....:huh).

    I'll definitely make sure to lube and grease everything well. I'm pretty sure I routed it properly, but I will evaluate it carefully during the install. Something is definitely fishy, because you're right, there's no way I should have snapped THREE clutch cables on a machine with only 16000 km on it...
    #50
  11. Eggsontoast

    Eggsontoast Adventurer

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    Just out of interest where is the cable snapping?

    Have you cupped the cable on the guide by the starter motor?

    Is the clutch actuator arm diagonally in line with the cylinder base nut?

    Pat
    #51
  12. CoastMountainGuy

    CoastMountainGuy Backroads Wanderer

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2008
    Oddometer:
    71
    Location:
    Pemberton, BC
    Clutch cable keeps snapping right up by the lever, right at the lever-end ball. Always re-routed in the stock location. Can't figure this one out... Is lube and smooth routing the answer?
    #52
  13. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

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    Sharp edge at the lever?
    #53
  14. CoastMountainGuy

    CoastMountainGuy Backroads Wanderer

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    Oct 26, 2008
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    Pemberton, BC
    Likely culprit... It is the original stock lever, though. Now it's lying in two pieces on the ground, and the bar is awaiting the new ASV lever...
    #54
  15. TripTheNinja

    TripTheNinja New to Seattle

    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2010
    Oddometer:
    10
    Location:
    Maple Valley, WA
    Is there a trick to putting the clutch-side case back on? Do I:

    a) Leave the clutch pinion post inside the case and adjust it (by twisting) as I'm pressing the case against the motor? (Which I couldn't get it to cooperate, hence me asking this question.)

    b) Take the post out and then re-install after I secure the case? If I need to take the pinion post out, HOW DO I DO IT? Does it just press out? Will I need a new bearing, etc?

    I couldn't find any literature via the www so hopefully this will help others as well.

    Thanks for any advice!
    #55
  16. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

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    The pinion post is geared/splined 360* at both ends, it doesn't matter where it seats. The adjustment is made by rotating the arm on the spline, after the cover is installed. (edit to add: the clutch release rack is only notched on one side and the teeth must be rotated forward before putting the clutch cover on. It sticks out of the clutch hub and engages the pinion post.) There is something that catches while installing the cover (I don't remember what), just wiggle it around until it seats; including rocking the arm back and forth. I found that I could keep the cover 'flat to the case' by gently tightening the bolts with my fingers.

    Do not remove the pinion post.
    #56
  17. sandwash

    sandwash Long timer

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    Oct 26, 2007
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    Flagstaff Az 7000'
    ya you have to "walk" it on the spline
    #57
  18. TripTheNinja

    TripTheNinja New to Seattle

    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2010
    Oddometer:
    10
    Location:
    Maple Valley, WA
    Thanks for the advice above. I figured that I needed to be a bit more patient with it and that taking the pinion post out would create too much unnecessary work. Glad to hear it from someone else!:beer

    Now I need another opinion that stems from doing some searching and not finding enough information;

    THE STORY
    I bought my bike used with 3300 miles on it from an outwardly proud "Christian Firefighter" in Virginia, who said it was in perfect shape other than the right side number plate being damaged from a soft-bag pressing it against the muffler. We already know where this is going, right? After riding it a few times I noticed that the only time my oil was clean was when I bought it and trailered it 8 hours home. The oil must have just been freshly changed the day I looked at it and bought it..

    I thought it had a knocking noise when I was looking at it however it was probably just the standard noise bouncing off the skidplate that I had read about... nothing too serious because the oil was clean and the bike seemed to be running well and otherwise sounded normal. I initially cycled oil through it after every few hundred miles (just for my peace of mind) and noticed that the oil would never stay clean for more than one or two trips around the block. It would turn a cloudy black color. I called this guy to ask him what he knew and of course he wouldn't reply. Then I took it to two local dealers who had no idea what it could be, wanted me to leave it with them, and charge me an exorbitant amount of money to fix something that I could probably figure out myself.

    I did my research and cracked the case to look for the famous Primary Drive Gear Nut issue. Lo-and-behold! It was about 3 to 4 threads loose from where it should be tightened at. It was machining off the corner of the clutch basket. I've used a magnetic oil plug, which would present small amounts of shavings, however nothing that looked too serious. When I pulled the case off there was a little cranny in the case behind the gasket that trapped enough metal to fill a pen cap, probably more aluminum than anything. The nut which is made of stronger metal didn't have much damage. I figure that's the reason that I didn't get many flakes on my oil plug. By this time, I'm kicking myself for not trusting my instinct with the knocking noise and cursing this righteous "Christian Firefighter's" name up and down.
    :kboom
    Bottom line, I have to live with the issue, chalk it up as experience, and probably rebuild or buy a new motor sometime down the road. I would love to have more faith in mankind, however these kind of circumstances make it difficult.

    MY CURRENT QUESTION
    Considering that the bike now has about 5500 miles on it. I changed the oil wayyyy more than I should have. I cleaned the surfaces and put red locktight on the Primary Drive Gear Nut and torqued it. The NSU was already tight so I put locktight on it and tightened it back up. Hopefully the oil will stay clean after I cycle it once more.

    What could be the next domino(s) to fall as a result of putting mileage on the engine with metal shavings floating around for a few thousand miles?

    What kind of engine life would you guys think that I'll have? I ride pretty conservative and sometimes get a bit spirited.

    Is there anything else that I should be wary of?

    Once again, I appreciate any advice and I hope this helps others as well.
    #58
  19. tv guy

    tv guy Commuter

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2005
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    103
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    South Louisiana
    Good work finding and fixing the problem! I don’t think anyone can accurately predict what might happen next. Since you’re “stuck” with it now I would recommend you ride it like normal and keep an eye on the oil and any new strange noises. With any luck after a few thousand miles you’ll forget all about this bad beginning.
    #59
  20. trailrider383

    trailrider383 867-5309

    Joined:
    Jan 12, 2008
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    3,766
    Location:
    NP, ID
    2007 DR650 with 28,400 miles running just fine 2 weeks ago. Shut it off and went to start it a week later-nothing. Pulled a spark plug to check the spark and got one weak spark then nothing. Checked the pickup coil with an ohmmeter and it didn't meet specs. Ordered one from here for $39:

    http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/ca...up-Pulser-Coil

    Had it in 2 days, took 5 days to get a gasket from Suzuki. Wired it in today (wire colors are backwards) and it fired right up. Anybody else want to chime in with their mileage when the pickup coil died? Luckily mine died in the garage. :knary
    #60