DR650SE Index Topic # 9 ELECTRICAL/LIGHTING

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Krusty ..., Nov 8, 2010.

  1. sagedrifter

    sagedrifter Southern Explorer

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,533
    Location:
    Jacksonville, Alabama

    Look here: http://dr650.zenseeker.net/SignalLights.htm

    Scroll to the bottom and you'll find the directions for turning the signals into running lights/turn signals.....

    I would think seperate running lights on the rear tied into the brake light is far more pratical and easy to do though.

    Like a Whelen TIR6 or some other plug and play deal for bikes. The stock lamps aren't worth messing with really, just some thing to tinker with for some. Lots of ideas on that zenseeker page.

    I might add a brite rear stop light one day.
  2. Ride-til-sore!

    Ride-til-sore! still 20 in-my-mind

    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2010
    Oddometer:
    394
    Location:
    Minn-sota
    Thanks for the feed back guys. Great info sagedrifter! :clap
  3. greener556

    greener556 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    119
    Location:
    Iowa

    Has anyone used this for a 12v outlet - phone charger?
  4. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,172
    Location:
    Kiwiland
    Almost everyone :evil
  5. greener556

    greener556 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    119
    Location:
    Iowa

    No problems with blowing fuses or anything?
  6. NordieBoy

    NordieBoy Armature speller

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2006
    Oddometer:
    7,172
    Location:
    Kiwiland
    People have been using it for heated vests. A gps/phone is no problem.
  7. sasha_j

    sasha_j full time RV'er

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2008
    Oddometer:
    91
    Location:
    currently, West Yellowstone, Mt.
    Thanks for the tip on the " black plug with a brown and a black/white wire over the headlight". I used it for a 12V powerlet for my GPS. Been working great for a while now.

    Different issue: Couple days ago, my horn gave it's last beep....worked normal, then dying sound, then nothing....

    Before I check for 12V there and buy a replacement, I gotta ask if this happened to anyone else, horn just dying out of the blue @ 18,000 miles?
  8. sagedrifter

    sagedrifter Southern Explorer

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,533
    Location:
    Jacksonville, Alabama
    Yeah, they don't last long. Especially if you ride in the rain and freezing weather will get the wet ones quick. Mine quit around 8K, I replaced it at 12K or so...:D

    Needed it for the DOT inspection. I just used a regular one from the local auto parts store. High tone was my choice, about $9 to $20 depending on the model. I think the cheap ones work best and draw less power. TPI probably has one for motorcycles, they had a chrome one last time I looked. :evil

    My fiam one has lasted much better than the stocker.
  9. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

    Joined:
    May 29, 2002
    Oddometer:
    21,604
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
  10. sandwash

    sandwash Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,577
    Location:
    Flagstaff Az 7000'
    Watch out for auto horn's they take amps to work.You will fry the horn button(contacts),wire a relay for it and you will be safe
  11. eakins

    eakins Butler Maps

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    May 29, 2002
    Oddometer:
    21,604
    Location:
    Fort Collins, Colorado
  12. greer

    greer Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 4, 2005
    Oddometer:
    3,999
    Location:
    Glasgow, Kentucky
    A bit pricier, but if you need it right now, O'Reilly's carries the Deka. Might be rebadged as the SuperStart ETX9.

    Sarah
    smilin jack likes this.
  13. Kommando

    Kommando Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2006
    Oddometer:
    9,641
    Location:
    By the Great Lakes
    To use front signals as marker lights, you can buy dual-filament sockets to fit your signals. NAPA usually can get a pretty wide selection of this stuff. You could also buy dual-filament signals. I bought some stock-looking dual-filament signals on Ebay, got some CycleGear adapters to connect the flasher filament wires (w/bullet connectors) to the stock wiring harness, and spliced the marker filament wire into the tail-light circuit. My tail/brake bulb and my signal bulbs are LEDs, so I don't worry about over-taxing the circuit. I also don't worry about overheating the signal housings, as LEDs stay much cooler than incandescent bulbs. I can also turn the engine off, turn the ignition to the "Park" position, and leave the bike lit up on the side of a dark road for a considerable time without killing the battery.:clap

    If using LED bulbs in stock-type housings, get some rated for around 1W or better. The lesser LED bulbs are not very bright.

    You could also get some amber LED strips from Autozone/Advance/Pepboys/etc., and stick them on your handguards. Again, wire them into your tail-light circuit and they will work in the "Park" ignition position. I'd also use an LED tail/brake bulb, so you don't over-tax the tail circuit. The stock 1157 tail/brake bulb is about a 3W/23W bulb, so a 1W/3W tail/brake LED, and 1W (x2) marker lights will be similar to stock wattage requirements on the tail circuit. You'll actually use approx. 20W less than stock when sitting at a stoplight with the brake lit. My LED brake bulb also flashes 3x before going solid.

    LED bulbs like this are available all over the web. I got mine from www.superbrightleds.com.
  14. Cobain

    Cobain night owl

    Joined:
    Aug 20, 2012
    Oddometer:
    132
    Location:
    Spokane
    Just a couple Hella 700ff's with custom mount. $80 total. Added a $4 switch to turn them off in the day.

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  15. ER70S-2

    ER70S-2 Long timer

    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    10,200
    Location:
    SE Denver-ish
    Unused connectors are circled in red. For instance: tach light, throttle position switch (2 in second drawing), headlight flash, NSU optional circuitry (1 in second drawing), etc.

    Edit: Uhoh, I wonder where someone else's photo went? :patch
    [​IMG]

    Rusty Rocket found it here:
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    nmerrill at DRRiders has added color. :clap Check out the green arrows and red numbers (bottom right), he's even added useful notes. :beer

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    There are two hidden splices that occasionally cause problems, they are very difficult to trouble shoot. They're poorly done crimps and well hidden.

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    They live somewhere in here:
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  16. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2010
    Oddometer:
    6,128
    Location:
    Passing ADV Stalkers in California
    Good to know what's what with that! Thanks!
    When I first got my DR650 I took pics of some of the unknown ... and unused plugs. I put my VOM on them and found some to be Switched and some Un-switched. LOOK HOW CLEAN THAT BIKE IS!!! :lol3 (not any more!)

    Unfortunately I did not DOCUMENT which was which ... but I did take pics.
    It's not that hard for owners to simply stick a VOM into some of these. NOTE:
    Some of the unused plugs are plugged (or sealed) up from the factory. So I guess Suzuki don't want you messing with those ... but what do they do? And ... could they be used for something else? I found at LEAST three available plugs in my search ... here are a few Pics:
    Enjoy

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  17. VooDooDaddy

    VooDooDaddy Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    163
    Location:
    SW Iowa
    O.K. Fellas. I need some help with my DDM headlight kit. I came across ADVGrifter's posts about the headlight tutorial, both here and on TT. Please take a look at what I received from DDM. Mainly, I don't see/understand how I secure the new bulb in my headlight housing? The original bulb has a metal lip/flange that secures it into the headlight housing. The flange surrounding the headlight is metal. There is now way to transfer this to the new bulb as seen in the pictures.

    In ADVGrifter's posts on page 3, beginning with reply #35, his 8th and 9th photo shows a bulb flange that appears to be rubber?? Did I order the wrong parts from DDM? Is there a rubber part or flange that surrounds the bulb that I need to order from Suzuki to place around the new bulb to secure it into the headlight assembly?

    The pictures below should clearly show what I received and the problems I am having. Thanks in advance for your help.

    My first two pictures show the original bulb as it was installed when I took the headlight housing off my DR650.

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    New DDM bulb:

    [​IMG]
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    Now way to securing into the headlight housing??

    [​IMG]

    Here's what I got in the kit. No receipt, no instructions, no part numbers, no order confirmation?

    [​IMG]
  18. VooDooDaddy

    VooDooDaddy Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    163
    Location:
    SW Iowa
    Sorry guys,...It looks like I simply got the wrong bulb in the kit. Doing more research looks like I need to exchange the bulb in my kit for an H4 low beam bulb?

    Sorry for getting ahead of myself.

    Trent
  19. Adv Grifter

    Adv Grifter on the road o'dreams

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2010
    Oddometer:
    6,128
    Location:
    Passing ADV Stalkers in California
    Damn, looks like they've sent you the wrong bulb ... or at least the plastic surround that holds the bulb and fits into the headlight assembly.

    Did you order an H-4 bulb? You can see (look on my TT tutorial) my bulb and plastic surround fitting are different to the one you have.

    I was able to reach an actual person in the San Diego area at DDM Tuning.
    He sorted out my order when I returned the high/low system. Maybe someone there can help. I think I got the Boss: Chinese American, probably a Berkeley or UCLA grad. Sharp.

    Good luck!
  20. VooDooDaddy

    VooDooDaddy Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2009
    Oddometer:
    163
    Location:
    SW Iowa
    Hey Fellas,

    More help needed. My desire to light the entire bike with LED's is so I can take advantage of my heated vest/gloves on cold days. I want to reduce the watt usage as much possible; so my plan was to install the DDM headlight kit (new, correct bulb on the way), LED taillight bulb which is working perfectly, and then replacing all the standard bulbs in the turn signals with LED's as well.

    I bought and installed replacement LED bulbs for the original turn signal stalks, and also bought an LED specific flasher relay which I also installed to correct the blink rate on the LED turn signals. Here is the relay I bought and installed, as well as the LED bulbs:

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/221168990542?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

    http://www.customled.com/products/flasher_relay/flasher_relay.htm#LayoutRegion1LYR

    Well, upon installing the LED's in the turn signals, and the the LED flasher relay; my DR650 is basically giving me the bird...!

    Upon turning the ignition ON and attempting to activate the turn signals in either direction, both the REAR signals simply light up and stay continuously on. No flashing. Then I tried removing the bulb from the idiot light cluster next to the speedo, and things got just a tad better. With the indicator bulb removed, the rear lights will flash in the desired direction, but ONLY the rear turn signals work.

    I am a pretty good mechanic, but electrical stuff is like a black art to me. I understand electrical stuff about as well as I understand Chinese writing.

    Help appreciated...!