DR750 & DR800 owners thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by MCmad, Jul 14, 2008.

  1. arrowrider

    arrowrider Adventurer

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    Hi Neil .
    No you can't ride up to the batterys as 4WD "DICK HEADS" had been going off the tracks and ripping the shit out of the area so they've fenced it off . And the Royal Oak has complete gone but the New Orleans is looking pretty flash these days :freaky
  2. Jack Rabbit

    Jack Rabbit Adventurer

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    Location:
    Gibbons, Alberta, Canada
    Well I gutted the DRZ pipe and wow it was really choked up. Not a lot of breathing room in that thing. Have been in contact with the previous owner and he only had it out for one ride with that can and he liked the quietness of the bike but never really had it long enough after the rebuild to get the bugs out.

    So like the title says, I'm doing a bit of a change of plans. I was going do something with the intake like a k&n or something like that but after talking with the last owner he said that it had lots of power with the stock pipe (rusted out). So I was just going to rebuild the insides of the pipe for nowand leave the stock airbox in place.

    I have discovered a small Twin-Air filter for a KTM that is basically just a flat piece of foam that would fit nicely if you made a cut out for it on the top of the stock box. I may go in that direction next season after I get the pipe finished and of course put her to sleep for the winter.

    Otherwise I am going to build a straight through exhaust. I'm just building a mesh tube insert and going to wrap it with packing. I will play around with internal baffles until I am happy with the sound and power balance but I do expect it to be loud and powerful. I suppose the way it should be.

    JR
  3. Letsgo21

    Letsgo21 Been here awhile

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    Hey guys,

    I previously owned a few sportbikes and rode some off road bikes way back when i was 15yrs. I'm now thinking about buying a dr800:

    [​IMG]

    anything in particular with these bikes i should look for?

    greetz
  4. mousitsas

    mousitsas Long timer

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    Yes, get your hands on a KLX650 front end, it will transform the bike and its a bolt on conversion with the exception of the steering lock.
  5. MCmad

    MCmad Banned

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    Two things to consider

    1 It will never be a motorcross bike, and should be ridden acordingly,

    2, setup is very important in regard to the type of ridding you intend to do tyres and ride hight settings are biggies, to be quite honest DRbigs are great on the road and gravel and can do hard dirt but any thing soft will have the front end in fits and the back end sinking unless you run agressive tires, Also setting the bike up low will alow you more leyway at slow spead when turning slow as you really nead to be able to touch you feet easily on the ground, otherwise the bike may fall over on you and 190kg is not so easy to move once down

    I also as have a YZ250F motorcross bike and I notice when the tires lose thier edge.
    Riding the My Dr in the soft would be like Riding my YZ on rims

    Dont expect to much offroad on dual sport tyres and youl be OK
  6. bluesman

    bluesman Long timer

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    I am very interested about that mod...but I never saw it done to DR800...Mine is 1992 with 43mm forks.
    Can you give some more info, may be photos?
    Here is some questions I am stuck with - I will really really appreciate if you can answer what you can...pleease! :)
    Even if you only have that info for DR750 so far...
    1. Do DR front wheel fits KLX forks without modifications?
    2. If not - do I need complete front from KLX, with wheel and everything?
    3. Those KLX forks - they are not adjustable kind, are they? Are they cartridge forks?
    4. How different is rake etc. of front forks with KLX set? Is bike geometry changing a lot?
    5. Do tripple tree fits DR header without mods? If not - what need to be done? E.g. bearings, axle etc. etc.?
    6. Does it affect max. steering angle, e.g. turning radius?
  7. mousitsas

    mousitsas Long timer

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    1. Do DR front wheel fits KLX forks without modifications?

    I doubt that, I bought the whole front end including the wheel


    2. If not - do I need complete front from KLX, with wheel and everything?

    I think so


    3. Those KLX forks - they are not adjustable kind, are they? Are they cartridge forks?

    They are not adjustable; i dont know what cartridge forks are. They are upside down though. They behave a lot better than the originals on my 750


    4. How different is rake etc. of front forks with KLX set? Is bike geometry changing a lot?

    I dont know the numbers. But from my experience, the bike behaves much better. I had to play a little with rear preload, as it seems KLX springs are softer. I am planning to fix this in the near future by adding a spacer. However, they have never bottomed and there is no excessive dive while braking (I use 7.5W oil instead of 5W). Having said that, I have replaced the front brake disc with an EBC SM (320mm) and braking is awesome even with the original crappy 750 caliper, which was made to fit with a small spacer.


    5. Do tripple tree fits DR header without mods? If not - what need to be done? E.g. bearings, axle etc. etc.?

    Yes it does, at least on the 750. I used the 750 bearings. There is a little difference on the steering stem length, but there is enough thread to use two counter lock nuts. The thread is same as 750 thread. On my KLX steering stem, the top thread where the nut above the top yoke bolts in, was damaged and I didnt use it. The top yoke was held in place by the upper forks alone, whish is not that much of an issue.

    6. Does it affect max. steering angle, e.g. turning radius?

    I have filled off the steering locks on the 750 frame and havent yet soldered new ones; the bottom KLX yoke has a different steering lock pattern. I didnt want to touch the klx yoke as I knew I would transfer the forks to the 800. The steering angle is defined by the frame, so it is unchanged. The klx fork to fork distance is slightly bigger than the original on the 750, but it creates no problem whatsoever. There is enough space in the fairing to accomodate the wider distance. Turning radius is unaffected.

    Unfortunately, I am away from the bike as we speak, but will start looking into the 800 conversion in about 2-3 weeks time. I will take pics and will post them here. I will also measure the offset and anything else anybody would like to know. I havent ridden the bike for about 2 years, so things are slightly foggy in my mind. What i do remember WELL though, is that:

    a) There was no machining required for the conversion apart from filling off the steering locks on the 750 frame
    b) The KLX front end is solid as a rock compared to the 750, maybe the difference from the 800 is not as prominent.
    c) The bike after the conversion felt a lot lighter, due to lighter forks as well as yokes. I couldnt't believe the weight of the stock steel yokes, which is also placed high.

    All in all, the conversion is easy and with very positive effect. Dont be scared by the lack of adjustability of the KLX USD's, there is nothing a competent suspension mechanic cant address. Whether the 800 conversion is equally easy will be defined by the inner diameter of the top head bearing on the 800. I know that the outside diameter is larger than in the 750. Bottom bearings should be identical, as well as the steering stems. Maybe someone else can chime in and fill the gaps here!

    m.
  8. Letsgo21

    Letsgo21 Been here awhile

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    thx for the info!

    The bike will be used 80% on road and about 20% gravel/dirt roads so i'll think those dual sport tyres will do.
    As those forks, i know the owner did a swap allready, i'm waiting for more detailed pics and info, will put them here asap!

    greetz
  9. bluesman

    bluesman Long timer

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    Mousitsas, thank you very much for such comprehensive info! That's actually answering all my questions :)
    I also found that KLX650R forks unlike C model have some adjustements but rest is totally same with C model, so perhaps I'll go for it...thou I can't really complain about 43 mm stock forks on SR43.

    Now I am buried deep in making full-scale sump guard from what turned out to be (D'oh! How would I have known that this material is that) not aluminium but some hard aly alloy, so I am having bad time half-bending-half-bolting that thing (have no welder for aluminum) from 5 mm flat I bought by chance. It's so non-bendable, even heating it not helping. When done I probably will have pattern for folding it and process documented, but if all will work as I plan it's going to be killer strong sump guard...
  10. Letsgo21

    Letsgo21 Been here awhile

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    Damn, i'm looking forward to pics:clap

    Any of you guys use that imo or something comparable to it?
    You guys prefer those to normal speedo and revcounter?
  11. Okta

    Okta rooky

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2008
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    62
    Location:
    Hungary
    Hello Doctor Bigz!

    I'm Laszlo Ochtinszki -Okta- from Hungary, have my second SR41.

    Check out our website: www.drbig.hu
    It is Hungarian, so what interesting can be for you guys are the pics:D:

    Members: Klub - Tagok
    Meetings: Fotogaleria - tura / klub

    A short movie from one of our members:
    http://drbig.uw.hu/tagok/japex.wmv

    Big up for Bigz!

    Cheers
  12. Letsgo21

    Letsgo21 Been here awhile

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    Nice site you got there mate! Beautiful pics!:clap
  13. Dino3310

    Dino3310 Been here awhile

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    Oct 11, 2008
    Oddometer:
    674
    Location:
    waikato gravel and sand
    got a little problem, and this is where i'm at at the moment. any advice would be great.
    (1) has any one had any problems with the carb leaking gas, mine seems to be leaking from the T as it goes into the carbs is this T ment to have any movement in it, i'm thinking it may need replacing but i cant be 100% on the exact point of leak as its a hard spot to see into.
    (2) it might even be the fuel pump that is stuffed because even when the bikes not running its still leaking at the carb, so am i right in thinking that when the bikes running the vacum of the carb works the fuel pump so when its not running there should be no fuel passing the pump- is that right or am i wrong? if i'm right does that mean it's just the pump that needs replacing and the fuel leaking from the carb is just an over flow.
    last owner reckoned he had the carb over hauled.
    any ideas?

    cheers
    Dean
  14. Letsgo21

    Letsgo21 Been here awhile

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    imo y're right, i do think it's the fuel pump.
    Do you know someone who has a spare carb or one that you can swap?
    That's the way you can rule things out....

    greetz
  15. Dino3310

    Dino3310 Been here awhile

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    waikato gravel and sand
    no spare carbs locally, gonna buy a new pump and try it (fingers crossed)
  16. bluesman

    bluesman Long timer

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    I think you migh have hit classical DR problem, or may be not (I am not 100% sure I understood correctly).

    It can be not fuel pump yet (thou it can break too with slightly different symptoms).
    Read fix here:

    http://home.germany.net/avehrenb/Big/tips_e.html

    As for fuel pump - if ever you will need to replace it - buy Mikuni fuel pump rather than original. Those Mikuni's easy to find (Google), cheap and much more reliable than stock pump.

    http://www.jcwhitney.com/MIKUNI-FUEL-PUMPS/GP_2015684_N_111+10211+600014718_10111.jcw
  17. Letsgo21

    Letsgo21 Been here awhile

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    now that's some very useful info!!!
  18. nave

    nave Nave

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    I drive mostly off road and <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:smarttags" /><st1:country-region w:st="on"><st1:place w:st="on">Israel</st1:place></st1:country-region> is a very dusty country¬Ö<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
    Here is my solution for the air filter:<o:p></o:p>
    I made an aluminum adapter to fit between the carb' and the new open air filter (UNI) and kept the original air box. <o:p></o:p>
    I cut the age of the air box that points to the direction of the carb' <o:p></o:p>
    So first I connect the adapter then the air box goes in up until it touches the age of the adapter and then the air filter connects. <o:p></o:p>
    I kept the top of the air box but made the air holes bigger (and lose the original rubber snorkel.<o:p></o:p>
    Very easy to take care of the air filter now and the improvement in power and respond is excellent <o:p></o:p>
    Especially now when I have the Mikuni flat slide on :clap
  19. nave

    nave Nave

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    here is the adapter...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  20. nave

    nave Nave

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    and the 3 parts togther
    [​IMG]